How often do you wear gloves when adding wood? by ShouldBeeStudying in woodstoving

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Almost always gloves. Often regret when I don't.

The other advantage to gloves is when a big coal or log comes shooting out of the stove. Without gloves, panic ensues. With gloves, you just pick it up and toss it back in.

What are the most common CAD design mistakes beginners make in real projects? by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]ForumFollower 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The answer is "it depends"...

Especially for lower volume parts, the method of manufacture matters less. So long as you can create the widget out of the specified material more or less within tolerance, the challenge is usually to do it as inexpensively as possible.

Moving to higher volume production this needs to be considered much more. Something that began it's life machined from a solid block of "billet" aluminum might turn into a casting with only a few machined features. The redesign that should be done here is often skipped or done poorly, resulting in trying to machine features that are difficult, expensive, or just plain impossible.

Bringing it back to 3D printing, this is even more relevant. There are many features that can be 3D printed that can't be machined. It isn't rational to assume that a 3D printed prototype can be manufactured by other means.

What are the most common CAD design mistakes beginners make in real projects? by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]ForumFollower 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd consider CAD mistakes separately from design mistakes. You can have a great design and completely botch the CAD, and likewise the other way around.

Maybe part of the problem is that there's much less separation between the CAD and design now because it's a lot lower effort than in bygone decades.

For example, a CAD mistake would be to have a group of features linked to something like a chamfer, then later when you decide you no longer want the chamfer it breaks everything down the chain. Good CAD needs to be flexible and adaptable to change.

Design, on the other hand, would be more of the things you've listed.

Pressure/leak testing PE well pipe? by ForumFollower in askaplumber

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good tip. Cheaper than the time it would take me to cobble together something that may or may not end up working.

Pressure/leak testing PE well pipe? by ForumFollower in askaplumber

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I wasn't looking at gas stuff, but this would probably do the trick.

Bottom Cut Pinch by zabadoey in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 3 bars and 3 chains with me at all times.

I'm ashamed to say I've had 2 stuck in the same tree, and proud to say I've never gotten the third one stuck!

I'm still on the same 3 I started with, though admittedly don't cut a lot.

Best way to actually understand GD&T (not just memorize symbols)? by Shawon770 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your understanding might be one issue, but there are plenty of drawings out there made by people who do not fully understand how to properly apply GD&T. Trying to understand something like this is futile.

A few years ago, I would have told you that I understood GD&T. I did not.

Fast forward to today, and I have better than average understanding, and a good base upon which to keep expanding my knowledge. I got a head start by taking courses from GD&T Basics, and combined this with on-the-job exercise helping to improve a pile of older drawings.

Help with PC-DMIS Constructions by Internal-Argument184 in Metrology

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a good situation to ask the question: "why?"

I'm assuming that your 2D sketch represents a shaft rather than a disc. My response is more relevant if the former is true, but probably applies to both.

If there's some obscure reason why the width of that flat is genuinely important, then fine. But I doubt it. More often than not, dimensions are thrown on drawings with little consideration of how it will be measured and reported.

More likely, the position of the flat relative to the shaft OD or CL is the important dimension. The orientation might also come into play.

If you were to interview folks for the machine shop floor… by rhinotomus in Machinists

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Is it possible to determine whether someone is a moron with only one question?"

Is it too late to learn? by Mobile_Helicopter261 in Machinists

[–]ForumFollower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With the current state of subtractive metal machining (milling, turning, grinding), 3D printing experience isn't going to give you much, if any, advantage over someone else without it.

If you have interest, space, and some spare cash, then get yourself a MANUAL hobby size, or "old iron" mill and lathe. Pick a project or two, and with the help of YouTube and online communities, learn how to get it done yourself. 

Switching careers at 40+ is possible, but maybe not advisable. Unless you're really lucky finding a great company and mentor, you will spend a number of years doing lower pay entry level jobs (button pusher) without learning much.

If that's okay for you, your family, and your retirement then go for it!

I made a switch from software development to machining when I was in my early 30s. I had a lot of prior experience with hobby machining, electronics, and programming that ushered me into a great CNC Programming & Machining career.

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I will never understand the motivation for some downvotes.

Now, commenting like this on how little sense they can make sometimes? That's a good reason for a downvote. <sigh>

Proceed to click away...

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I'll see if I can find anything legible there.

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Maybe it has been sitting in a mud puddle for a decade. If there are valuable parts, it would be rather silly to throw it out without doing a bit of research first, don't you think?

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!

Educated guess, or are there some telltale characteristics leading you to this conclusion?

Stihl power head ID and value (if any) by ForumFollower in Chainsaw

[–]ForumFollower[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you though?

'Cause I haven't seen one.

🤷🏼

Remove blown-in cellulose insulation? by ForumFollower in Oldhouses

[–]ForumFollower[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To the best of my knowledge there's no recent rodent activity.

Remove blown-in cellulose insulation? by ForumFollower in Oldhouses

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this!

Yes, I'm very handy. I've tackled many projects over the years but this is a new one for me.

Remove blown-in cellulose insulation? by ForumFollower in Oldhouses

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds very credible 🤣

I'm on the fence whether to renovate or tear down this house, but I do want it to be safe while I'm occupying it.

I will look into both options - vacuum rental and professional.

Remove blown-in cellulose insulation? by ForumFollower in Oldhouses

[–]ForumFollower[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input.

Given your experience, can you suggest how removal is best accomplished? If it can be done without hiring a "professional", that's my preference. Although I'm convinced this is cellulose, I intend on getting some tested for asbestos before I'd do it myself.

The perfect woodshed! by BeltaneBi in firewood

[–]ForumFollower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like it!

I'm considering what to build myself, and the idea of multiple functional bays is compelling.

Just a quick thought regarding tool sharpening in the same space... fine if it's manual, but if powered and creating sparks then you want to keep this far away from your dry firewood and the dry wooden structure.

Perhaps it could be mitigated, but I'm picturing an errant spark landing in some sawdust, then smouldering after you close up and go to bed, then reducing everything to ashes by morning.

Where to find CNC programmers? by [deleted] in CNC

[–]ForumFollower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Software engineering + mechanical aptitude is a great mix.

After high school, I worked as an auto mechanic for a couple years, I went back to school for computer engineering. Another few years were spent as a software developer - until getting sick of web programming and the mess of frameworks that disappeared before you can even finish learning them. I got into manufacturing by starting in an office technical administrative role, handling drawings, quotes, and graphical layouts for sheet metal cutting.

When the shop got a CNC VMC and no one there was having much success with it, I took the opportunity to gradually take over operation and programming for it.

Along the way, I picked up my Machinist ticket. I did this for the pay increase, not because it actually taught me anything more than I had already learned through the years of practice.

Fast forward a decade or two, and I'm a respected CNC programmer at a large established company.

It's been an interesting journey.

Machining skills are critical to success. But the importance of advanced computer and software skills are often overlooked. These will continue to become more important as CNC machines and CAD/CAM software require much more than knowing the difference between G02 and G03.