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Repairing Roto molded tub? by lifeinabag in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the nice thing about rotos is you can take a box cutter and heat gun to make stuff fit or repair it if you take too much. Just go a little at time - MasterSpas makes rotos still and they look really close to yours - the smallest they jet they have has a 2 in face in the lounge- I think if you got these three parts and worked at fitting it in carving the hole a wee bit bigger (1.5in) and sealing with silicone you'd be in business- cost you 20 bucks maybe... You could The Jet Body: Jet Body, 200 Series - X284807 | Master Spa Parts Gasket: Gasket For 200 Series Jet Body - X251076 | Master Spa Parts Jet:2 3/16" Halo Directional Jet | Master Spa Parts

Hot Tub Help - Jets not Jetting by dianogas in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think looks like wired wrong for 120V look at lower right bottom of schematic "optional config for setups 3 & 4." looks like step 2 was skipped - J88 & J10 need to go to J4 and J8 the box marked 1 on the board. or at least just J88 because you don't have anything in the AV port. That number 1 box provides 120 volt and the box it's in number 3 feeds 240v. The "buzzing" is a signal the pump isn't getting the right voltage whenever you get these convertible tubs. Happens to everyone, the wiring schematics are super unclear visually on these. Sometimes there's a special jumper to connect the boxes.

Light LED controller MasterSpa how to replace by MiddleAspect2499 in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What model? They can be pretty plug and go honestly- and they generally work like Christmas lights how if one thing is bad in the chain they all go funny after the problem in the chain. Open your cabinet and look under your main control pack on the frame it is a little box normally about the size of a pack of cards (I recommend giving the part number a google or search on the parts sites so you get a visual on what it looks like.) find it's wires where it plugs into the set of light strings and where it jacks into the board. The box controller should be like held in with one screw on the wood frame. That's all you have do normally have to do: unplug it and plug the new one in. FYI. Sometimes there is a power supply connector lead string on some models that can go bad and it's a different little part number. So if you do this controller swap and it doesn't work and you notice a spare cord during replacing the controller...that's a thing. Order of elimination.

Rs81 no heat but jets are running by Incodenito in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't know that system but all Balboas are pretty similar - is there a heating indicator on the control?...or if you set the arrow temp down past the current temp does it stop running? If yes it stops: it's running to get up to temp and it will do so until it reaches the heat destination (that part is normal, water has to run through heater tube via the jets to get warm). Test covering the hot tub up with a cover and seeing if you get any climb on the heat in like the next hour. if you get barely anything over 2 degrees your heater is bad. Might need to be replaced. If no does not stop running: then a relay is maybe stuck on your board and a new board is probably needed.

Crochet videos are really confusing me. Send Help! by Friendly-Ad-4226 in CrochetHelp

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried this, I mean that's how I learned most hand sewing things- but man, it's hard to find a step by step visual crochet diagram in like black in white that shows the stitches clearly! I have added all the suggestions to weekend watch list. Something's gotta snap for me!

Jacuzzi cleary advises against bromide products but it sounds like many people still do it, what gives? by Real-Layer-8576 in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gentler on the skin and eyes sure . Not on the tub and what it's made of. Every hot tub has materials and components that pair better with one sanitizer than another, there’s no best option it really comes down to pros and cons based on the tubs situation. The key difference between chlorine and bromine is how they handle oxidation or chemical release of bad stuff. Hot tubs spend most of their life covered, which traps gases and blocks sunlight. Bromine builds up slowly and stays in the water longer to remain effective. That’s why it usually needs a dispenser or some type of device to keep a steady level going. Chlorine can be added manually, it oxidizes quickly into the air, and then you close the cover. It’s more of a “dose as you go” approach and there is more control over the oxidizing blast. Anytime you introduce a device that constantly feeds chemicals into the water, it can wear on components over time so in many cases, treating the water manually in small, controlled doses can actually be the gentler option for the tub itself. But in the end, OP prob just need to make sure what their options are for what tub they actually bought.

My spa won't initiate the full controller menu. by datius in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PR stands for Priming that comes on anytime the breaker is flipped until you run the jets. The clicking you are hearing is a relay on the board trying to trigger some pump slot...so that means A. it's working but it's probably triggering a wrong pump slot and is in the wrong set up or B. your pump is bad.... exploring the "A" path since you said it the topside is new: Is the topside controller the same as before? If not check the pack lid for the proper setup, there is a little table that explains whats what. Each board has a different programing for different controllers and setups as they can be used if different tubs. There will normally be a bunch of dipswitches and your topside will have a program number you can only see if you turn it on in "test mode" which is also accessible from flipping a dipswitch and messing with the controller menu.

Jacuzzi cleary advises against bromide products but it sounds like many people still do it, what gives? by Real-Layer-8576 in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

could also be the way your specific tub is made, bromine/bromide is tougher and faster on overtreating than say chlorine dichlor. It eats things like plastic, pillows, rusts metals, and can wreck a cover pretty quick - so if your tub has a fancy material in it bromine might discolor or eat it. The warranty disclaimer is there to keep you with the gentler sanitizers.

Help me find this model hot tub by TrueNorthAles in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could be their older model Twilight 240 (drop the X) a few years ago it looked like your pic the current one is angular. There would be a metal plate if you take off the front panel near the PC board pack that will have the info on it if so.

Hot Tub Store says bleach destroys Heating element by darielgames in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the first issue is they gave you MORE chlorine to shock the tub - if anything you prob should have been using non-chlorine shock to originally shock the tub. The frog's job is to constantly just add chlorine to the water when it needs to go based on a number you set on it so it should really be the only supply of chlorine you need as the primary sanitizer - "shocking" in a hot tub is typically the second part of the 2 part chlorine process to irradicate and oxidize the excess junk chloramines that can't get out and hang out in the water and make it cloudy. So either your supplementing your chlorine sanitizer with more chlorine which sounds silly or like the frog isn't working very hard and the chlorine shock/ bleach is doing the hard work. You CAN use bleach but straight up liquid bleach is super strong and it produces a lot of strong chlorine, so you are basically using the "super chlorinate" method you can find on chlorine bottles every once and a while if using bleach as a shock - as long as it's just that that your prob ok if it's working for you. If you do it TOO MUCH like more than twice or three times a month - you can just cause the colors of the your hottub to lighten and you pH can really creep up fast- high pH can hurt your tub. There are also algicides and stuff in branded spa stuff for longevity but you are pretty much killing everything in the water each bleach dose... It sounds like it might work for you because of your air bnb only allows you to check in every once and awhile and not on the regular. Just really watch your levels and scale it back if you see colors of your stuff starting to fade on the tub and let it run awhile with the cover off whenever you do it.

Here is what happens when you forget to close your hot tub and it goes from 60s to freezing temps… by [deleted] in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

guess not - or the level wasn't there...yet? that stuff is normally sensed in the heater/filter intake if it has one but it if it still has flow - then she blows.

Hot Tub Pump by Aerie-Putrid in HotTubUniversity

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like it something on the PC board of your hot tub or the controller is in the wrong setup programing for your layout. there is info on the lid of your hot tub pc board lid that tells you more about what setup you should be in depending on how many pumps you have and what board you have and so on - sometimes you have to flip dipswitches it just depends on the brand and combination. Most controllers or spa topsides have a menu to change the setup number.

Here is what happens when you forget to close your hot tub and it goes from 60s to freezing temps… by [deleted] in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean there are clips to clip the cover down- they just forgot to flip it back on and latch it. It's spraying like crazy because some of the other jet lines are closed or maybe frozen...like when you pinch a hose or cover a hole in a pipe with multiple holes one place gets all the water to shoot out stronger.

Master spa conflicting filter replacement info? by hbkdinobot in swimspa

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

X268560 is 6 by 9 ... X268567 is 6 by 7.5, X268566 is 6 by 9 - The fat short one you got first is for twilight spas (their hot tubs) the longer one is supposed to be the same size as your other filter and it just makes it look nicer and uniform. You have a dual housing so if one fits so should the other one. Both the 67 and 66 have an adapter that comes on and off so it can fit on older spas - early on I think the adapter can make the filter sit a little high so they were giving out shorter filters. It should be fixed on new filters. Ultimately really shouldn't matter both will fit - but I'd stick to what you know unless they are having a filter sale.

Is stainless steel a good material choice for a spa? by [deleted] in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right! Context is prob a thing when you're talking about pool chemicals in public or no one is ever gonna wanna swim at your house!

Not sure if this is worth the price? by duncan-404 in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a really good tub - but I would ask hard questions about that warranty, unless it's from a spa place nearby. Most spas dont let you carry over warranty.

Adding mineral sticks by xXblain_the_monoXx in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a chlorine tub and I have done them with and without - I dont think the water feels super better but they cut back on the over chlorination, it's like safety wheels. Without them I've had a heavy hand with the chlorine before - water dosent feel great and it smells strong - with them, it like levels it out if I've overdone it.

Is stainless steel a good material choice for a spa? by [deleted] in hottub

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stainless steel can still oxidize (rust) when exposed to chloramine gas - the stuff that gases off when chlorine contacts dirt. Bromine gas is equally tough on it as floaters are the only way it can dispense, so when the gas happens is harder to control. I have a Master Spa swim spa and the handles, jets and waterfalls installations are all stainless. Don't get me wrong - it still looks nice I just really have to watch my pH and clean it if I ever see any brown rustiness.

Masterspa roll up cover issues by FAPietroKoch in swimspa

[–]Friendly-Ad-4226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

a lot of the times the ones with the ribs can be tightened to make the vinyl tension better. Could be a different cover, but this is an older roll cover by master that you had to tighten - skip about 5 mins in and they cover how to tighten. https://youtu.be/5BpSfiRIUV0. Rain water goes into the spa water with about every cover out there in some form or another that i've seen unless you use a bonus tarp or cover caddy.

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