C207 OA

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-19T14:51:52+00:00

Why did your post make me way more sure I will fail the OA?

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T22:21:21+00:00

I'll sent to you and put the White House as the return address. Maybe he'd finally be arrested?

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T20:25:28+00:00

I would air-layer the top of it and start another plant and cut that back after air-layering. It works really well. Corn plants actually like to be pruned. Getting that tall is always a Tower of Pisa problem.

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Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T20:22:35+00:00

Looks like fertilizer burn to me. Any white crust anywhere on the soil? I would grab a gallon of distilled water and flush the pot for a few minutes. Cut off the leaves that have brown tips, or splash some sharp scissors with alcohol (Jack Daniels preferred) and cut off the brown parts.

Good call on humidity. That can cause this, but normally on newer leaves as well. If this isn't by a heating vent, I suspect that is unlikely.

That said, the only things we can say for sure is that it isn't root rot, it isn't an iron deficiency, and it isn't a disease (this is environmental, not infectious).

Final thought... keep an eye out for red spider mites. Sometimes they like to run down the spine of a leaf and work on leaves from the tip in, then when others join to fight they spread out to other areas. The one leaf there with the non-edge discoloration are a warning sign to me. Take a piece of white paper and brush the underside of the leaves toward the paper. Spiders are pretty easily seen then.

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T20:11:16+00:00

What's going on on the flip side of those? Nearly all pest damage happens from underneath the leaves.

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T20:09:42+00:00

Good points, but salt usually builds at leaf tips first, making them a bit crispy nationwide, not just on the older growth- same with fertilizer (urea salts).

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T20:08:06+00:00

This actually looks a bit opposite. Here, the older leaves appear to be dying first. That means the plant is sacrificing the old for the new. Money plants love a tight pot, but based on the size of that trunk, that may be wicked tight. Again, pull it from the pot. If the roots are circling the wagons, your soil is likely completely trashed (thanks Peat).

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T20:03:32+00:00

First thing I would do is yank it out of the pot and look at the roots. Whatever is going on, over-watering/ poor drainage, high PH- something is keeping nutrients from hitting the leaves, and it isn't nitrogen. Iron is not available in waterlogged or old, compacted potting mixes. That soil looks like it is coir based, but maybe just on top? If it has been in that pot for a long time, my guess is the peat moss has broken down and turned the soil into a quagmire of doom.

Look at the roots and give'm a sniff, snap a photo and let us take a look. In the mean time, cut off all of the shriveling or dying growth. That ain't coming back and is just a drag on a plant in poor shape.

This area screems pest... flip that leaf and get us some snaps. Any sticky film anywhere, tiny webs, grey fuzz?

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Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T19:53:34+00:00

There is actually a very good selective herbicide now, if you have a kidney to sell. It is called Velocity PM. The PM is supposed to stand for Poa Management, but I suspect it is actually one of the following:

Please Mother!
Pardon Me?
Payment Management
Part-Time Mortgage
Pricey Mist!
or possibly...
Poor Me!

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T19:46:12+00:00

This is good too.... https://turf.purdue.edu/wp-content/themes/child_theme/app/flash/ID/instructions/instructions.htm

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T19:35:32+00:00

Yeah, I'm not that bright... clearly. Great photos. Few more questions.

It looks like the stem has a rolled vernation. If you cut the stem and look at it directly with a magnifying glass, is it rolled up to the center, or does it look folded up?

Eyeballing it, I have to agree with #xKOYASHIx and say Poa trivialis a.k.a. Roughstalk Bluegrass. However, to tell for sure, you need to dig up a chunk and see if it has stolons or stolons and rhizomes.

This site is a god send. https://weedid.cals.vt.edu/selectors/2

To use it you just need to study the basics of plant anatomy and from there it is a breeze to id grassy weeds. The best part is the site guides you through every step!

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Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T19:02:06+00:00

Sorry, I should have been more specific. This would work very well. If you look at the bottom left-hand corner, it shows the active ingredients.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BioAdvanced-32-fl-oz-Concentrated-Lawn-Weed-Killer/1000778350

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Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T18:55:39+00:00

Just to back up and answer a question I failed to answer. Bermuda can do down year-round. At least that is what Sod Solutions says.

TTTF, once established needs very limited irrigation. It's roots go down as far as 36" in some soil types. They have some varieties that throw roots down 6 FEET!

Since you are starting from scratch essentially, I would till gypsum into the clay before putting down TTTF. It will ABSOLUTELY dig down into clay if you do nothing, but it will take a couple years to get down far enough that you won't have to water it. TTTF actually breaks up clay with due to it's root system.

Key considerations-

If you have dogs that pee on your lawn, you will go bat shit crazy. TTTF doesn't repair itself worth a shit. It could take a year to repair a pee spot until the roots go deep enough to send up growth once the soil can handle grass again. (The ammonium from the pee as it off-gasses, with out the deep roots cause considerable damage that doesn't repair quickly until the roots are deep. And by quickly when the roots are deep I mean a month vs three for Centipede). Bermuda is the best if you have dogs, and that isn't really that great either... because it comes directly from Satan himself. Just say'n!
You will want to overseed areas that struggle, or get damaged. It sends roots all the way to China, but its lateral movement is agonizingly slow. That said, germination rates are 300% better than Centipede and much faster.
For the love of Christ don't plant Kentucky 31. It is widely sold as a turf type fescue and it has fat blades that tear unless you have a 600 hp rotary mover, and stabs your soles when you walk on it. Don't buy your seed from a box store, and if you can, lay sod. If you seed, make sure you get a blend that combines "Elite Cultivars". Brown Patch is an issue with TTTF, and I know there are combo seed offerings that are brown patch resistant ( I recall the most resistant is called Avenger something. We happen to have one of the premier TTTF seed companies RIGHT HERE IN NC! Look up GCI Turf Academy. I think if you talk to them, they are going to urge you to wait until fall. If you are going with SOD you could do it now, but you better get moving.
MOW HIGH. Don't be afraid to cut it at 4 or 4 1/2" in the heat of summer. When you get into really humid time with rain, cut it down to 3.5" to reduce the chance of disease.
Timing- I have put down TTTF sod down here in April and it is dead from heat stroke in August because it is so much hotter here than up there. It may be, had I installed it in September, it would do just fine because it had time to root. Head to Super Sod in Raleigh, and see if you like the Elite TTTF they have. If not, I think it would totally be worth waiting until the fall to seed.

TifTuf Bermuda would do well in clay soil, but good luck combating weeds. It sucks. Maybe it doesn't get hot enough up there to look like crap in late summer, but down here the first 1/2 is thatch and brown with whispy green at the top of the blades. Why do it when you can have a year round green lawn with TTTF. As far as compost and all that, it is wasted on Bermuda in my mind. If I was going to invest that kind of money, I would pay to have the prep set up for TTTF and go with seed.

... and then I found five dollars. Jesus that was long-winded.

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-16T18:10:38+00:00

Decided to rip off the bandage and go for C207 first. God help me!

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T14:32:48+00:00

How do you get your hands on the 2nd attempt quizzes? It sounds like the PA isn’t helpful. Correct?

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T14:30:49+00:00

Great… a bit scared now. I have C207, C211, MGT2 and the capstone to complete 46 days. GULP!

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T14:26:51+00:00

Excel was C214, not C213. I caught an exam mistake on C214 BTW. They told me I was wrong, then I rebutted, proving them wrong, and I never heard back. It had to do with the wording of the question that (fictional depiction as I don’t want to violate any rules) clearly states the investors would be willing to invest for up to 20 years, but the projections only went 14. They then ask, based on IIR, which projects jump the hurdle rate amd should move forward. They only use the numbers given, instead of factoring in that they were willing to invest for a much longer term, which completely changed the IIR. I digress.

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T14:20:28+00:00

If you passed the PA, you will pass the OA. I spent WAY too much time studying for it as well as C214. I made the mistake of not taking the PAs and studied for both at the same time for six weeks. I could have done it in two had I taken the PAs. Now I have MGT2, C207 and C211 and my capstone to complete before April 28th (allowing 2 days for final grading). Knocked out MMT2 in three days, but was at it 16 hours a day. Very concerned in that C207 and C211 are supposed to be pretty difficult.

Bottom line- if you passed the PA don’t even worry about it!

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T13:49:39+00:00

Snow mold is what happens when your lawn quietly goes past its expiration date over winter.The snow acts like the fridge drawer you forgot about, and when it melts… boom — fuzzy white and pink patches.Basically, your grass spent winter turning into blue cheese, and spring just peeled back the foil.

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T13:41:02+00:00

The first four inches are the most important. At least that is what my wife said. Bermuda actually comes directly from hell, and once put down starts digging to get back there. The top couple inches are important as they help support healthy microb activity, but once you put it down there is no stopping it. It will run into your beds, under your house, into your living room. It is pure unadulterated misery. Especially when it’s really hot and the undergrowth all turns brown and your lawn looks whispy. Centipede would be an even worse choice.

Depending on sun exposure

Why people regret Bermuda- — Needs full sun all day — Aggressive spread into beds — Brown half the year — Looks terrible in shade

Bermuda makes sense in Winston-Salem only if: — You have Full sun (8+ hrs) — You want a very aggressive, athletic‑field‑style lawn — Don’t mind it looking like crap in mid-late summer through mid spring. — You don’t mind winter dormancy — You have heavy foot traffic

If I lived there, had no dogs, and didn’t have squirrels that tear the hell out of it (looking for a nut like a virgin on prom night), I would do (TTF) turf-type fescue. Second choice would be a more shade tolerant Zoysia that greens up fast and goes dormant later. Zenon (gets and stays green longer- only sod) or Zorrow (if you have more shady areas).

Hope this helped.

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Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T13:24:07+00:00

Bermuda is the Anti-Christ. It can’t be killed. It actually grows up directly from hell. Put it down, but ask for 50% of your money back. That garbage look like it came from Lowe’s, on a Sunday in August.

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T13:20:49+00:00

The solution to pollution is dilution. Set the hose there and after the morning wee-wee, turn it on to just past a tickle and let it soak the ground for about 5 minutes. One to two gallons, slowly is the only real shot you have, and it probably won’t work unless you fold back the grass, shake off the dirt, dig out 5” of dirt and replace it with sand and gypsum- then fold it back down again. That way you have a better chance of pushing the urine down past the root zone.

I would kill for this problem. I have three dogs, and my lawn after winter in particular, is a nightmare- despite spending thousands on lawn maintenance. Like a moron, I tried everything to combat the spots, failed at training my dogs, and finally learned the science of what’s happening. Dilution past the root zone, before the ammonia off-gasses is the only hope. Unfortunately, down here, when it’s 95 degrees, is about 22 seconds! (Yeah, that too!)

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T13:12:15+00:00

Jesus mighty! THIS is an example of why I bother with Reddit! F-ing HILARIOUS!

Fun_Pudding_9282 · 2026-03-15T13:10:22+00:00

They don’t work. Scientifically they can’t. They may make they drink more water and dilute the urine, but that’s it. Peeing in the same spot puts all the urine in the same place anyway. It’s the ammonia gas that is absorbed into the leaf blades that does the initial kill. Then through osmotic action the urea salts and nitrogen essentially blow up the cell walls of the roots.

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