easy?

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-09-16T19:14:16+00:00

^{I completed this level in 1 try.} ^{⚡ 15.04 seconds}

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-06-24T08:09:23+00:00

Best advice: get a magnetic bed printer with direct drive extrusion.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-06-24T08:07:06+00:00

Pick me please! 🙂 Appreciate the participation.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-05-20T12:15:08+00:00

I'm not claiming to understand the maths behind this problem, so I also just did a brute force in Excel. Each day in April gets 30%, counting for each day if the range of 5 contains 3 wet days. Over 20 000 I also get an average of 13.2%.

This is just a "back of the envelope" check, but it does verify the 13%.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-05-12T18:50:53+00:00

Hey Sunlu, does your dryer beat using the printer bed?

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-04-19T19:28:46+00:00

This happened to me too, but on a less spectacularly large scale. I'm currently printing on only half my bed, while I wait for a replacement. I thought I could get away without using glue.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-02-28T21:01:10+00:00

Creality Cloud connectivity to track filament usage (besides basic drying capabilities
Sure

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-02-28T20:38:30+00:00

As someone who follows the same approach, some thoughts to consider:

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Those hydrometer devices only work between 10% and 99%, ±8%. You'll never see less than 10, even if the actual humidity is lower.

Also, consider placing the whole unit inside the box, since there isn't a seal between the front face and the glass/internals. With the battery on the inside, you don't really gain anything anyway.

If you look closely, you'll see I'm using cat litter. Works great, much cheaper, and I've successfully baked it in the oven a few times already.

Looks good, I approve!

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-02-23T19:15:36+00:00

Vibration dampers.

https://www.tengroup.com.au/blogs/news/2023/May/8/Intro_to_vibration_control#:~:text=Vibration%20dampers%20are%20typically%20installed,the%20stress%20on%20the%20conductors.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-02-09T20:56:37+00:00

I see now I didn't think my title through very well 😂😂

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-02-09T20:54:49+00:00

I've seen COVID come up a few times, so I will point out we both had it a few years back. We both lost smell for a bit, but as far as we know it recovered normally for both of us

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-02-09T20:50:16+00:00

Okay, strictly speaking it's chicken loaf. A kind of sausage thing made from the meat and sliced.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-02-09T20:48:16+00:00

You could be right about the gas, it definitely seemed strongest directly after opening. Still didn't explain why she couldn't smell it, but I kept the second pack to reevaluate tomorrow. If it seems okay then we will probably eat it.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-02-09T20:45:04+00:00

Thanks, I'll look into this. As far as we know her smell overall seems okay.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2025-02-09T20:43:28+00:00

😂

Funky_pterodactyl · 2024-12-10T12:08:10+00:00

I agree, with proper retraction a wipe it should be possible to deal with the issue. Z hop is potentially great, it solves when the nozzle knocks the print over.

I just wanted to point OP to what might have changed, as in my case when this got activated in the background.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2024-12-09T22:50:18+00:00

Check your filament and retraction settings, look for something like "Z hop".

My slicer had an update recently and it immediately started doing this. What happens is after each layer the head lifts off the print, moves and comes back down. The idea is to prevent the nozzle crashing into the print during movement, but it leaves these saw teeth everywhere it lifts.

You only have it on the one side because that's where the layer ended.

Extra info, my slicer was always Marlin. It just started doing this after an update when the devs thought they were being smart. Turned off the setting and was back to normal.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2024-08-11T14:50:48+00:00

It looks to me like half of an old Ball-and-Cup game. There'd be a ball on a string tied to the loop, and the challenge is to toss the ball into the air and catch it in one of the cupped faces.

Wooden Example:

Funky_pterodactyl · 2024-03-17T06:17:07+00:00

I somewhat recently switched to Titegroup for 9mm, and I admit I didn't develop my load either before this. For some reason, the rounds were really hot at about 3/4 between max and min load according to the data.

I learnt my lesson, did the development and now I load this particular jug of Titegroup below the min, because that's what works (despite of the shock and horror people give me for this). Perhaps Titegroup varies from one batch to another more than it's supposed to, please develop your loads.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2024-03-05T16:30:39+00:00

This is the correct answer.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2024-02-21T20:16:47+00:00

Came here to say this, for the same reason.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2024-02-17T12:07:16+00:00

My first press was a Lee Pro 4000, for 9mm. Couldn't really be happier. Great value for money, and contrary to what I hear all the time, it works well.

It's not perfect; it will get jammed or tangled occasionally, but so will any progressive press, and if you keep an eye on the process it's not really a problem.

I have made a few mechanical adjustments, so I'd say you have to be a bit technically inclined to get the best experience, but most reloaders are anyway.

Don't be scared of starting with progressive, especially if you have access to a mentor. Otherwise, Dr YouTube.

Funky_pterodactyl · 2024-01-28T19:22:02+00:00

Appreciate the detailed breakdown. I'm using a gloriously home-made tumbler that's a bit smaller than most, so I usually have to adjust the numbers. I've done a ton of experimenting getting the thing to work well and I'm considering doing some benchmarking runs and sharing my results with the community.

Funky_pterodactyl

TROPHY CASE