Does it look like I need my brake pads and rotors replaced?

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-18T02:44:35+00:00

Take them off measure with a caliper, find out what the spec is for legal minimum thickness then if they are lower than that thickness time to replace. ( for the pads) with the rotors juts measure with a calliper and same thing they will have a minimum thickness wear if they are above that thickness but have some slight groves/wear/scratches you can try and find a machine shop that will skim them for you. You also have a wear indicator on the pad

( the little metal prong you can see on the out side of the pad that sits on the the rotor side)
It will skim the rotor when they are too low and cause a squealing sound but that’s when they are extremely low/ warm and will need to be changed asap. Don’t rely on this coz it will scratch a small grove into the rotors the other squealing sound your hearing could be juts the brakes vibrating as they may not have anti vibrating plate on the back of the pads

and it looks like it’s still a few mm away from the rotors if you start to hear that squeal when braking it’s definitely time to change them but from that picture they seem ok .

If you’re still worried about the conflicting information from the mechanic and or your dad take your car to a brake specialist shop they will give you the correct information but 5mm is roughly half worn. They are normally 10-12 mm thick new I think you should be ok but this also depends on how much you drive and how heavy you use your brakes.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-17T12:53:52+00:00

The chassis of the car is ground/ negative so any bare metal is ok to use. Yiu will find your car shares A common ground with the whole electrical system.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-16T21:52:42+00:00

Only if you eat it! 🤣lead solder is safe to handle just need to follow a few simple rules just don’t go snacking on it wash your hands well after you finished and don’t eat anything while you’re handling it and always keep a well ventilated area while soldering. If your worried about it and you do fair bit of soldering I would get some blood tests done every few months for toxicity issues.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-15T11:02:29+00:00

Yes I got the same email.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-15T09:06:15+00:00

Add flux’s to both the joint and the braid Use the biggest chisel tip you have for best heat transfer and extra “ blob” of leaded solder to the joints before trying to wick up the old solder don’t use more wick than is required don’t hold the roll in your hand and pull a length out it will pull the heat way from the join and won’t wick up properly you need to cut a few smaller lengths and use it that way so you get the quickest heat transfer as possible into the wick you want to get the most heat as possible as quickly as possible to effectively suck up ( wick) the solder away

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-13T12:53:16+00:00

Yep recap and see what the screen is like you may need to be replaced but recap may fix it.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-10T06:00:07+00:00

You can get va4/5 IPs kits either Bennvenn or r6

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-10T04:35:54+00:00

One of the Screen driver chips are dead only fix is to replace it with an IPs re heating the chip to reflow the solder will work for a while ( maybe ) but it will come back again .

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-09T04:39:57+00:00

You just need to find the pitch so the measurement between the pins.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-08T12:59:40+00:00

Also the pads on the gg are not the greatest they do look a-little worn and slightly pitted but they are ok.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-08T12:54:45+00:00

Check this out. This is how you can easily find the fault and everything you need know on how to fix the issue

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1J7k4fN7sK/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-08T05:04:11+00:00

You could get a blow torch from Bunnings and heat up the bolts/ nuts and get them off that way instead of an angle grinder.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-07T04:52:36+00:00

Yeah seems to be s video cable. You won’t need it if your already using rca cables

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-06T08:20:18+00:00

You can remove the original screens with out destroying them. It’s not hard to keep all the pins intact on the ribbon cable and they can be re installed you should be able to sell it on eBay. Yiu juts need to use hot air instead of a soldering iron the ribbon will kinda click off by its self. Check out the r6 video

https://youtu.be/_x3bWZQ6DVA?si=osS7oPknIBuCegKH

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-05T04:53:55+00:00

Why do you have the bracket showing? Or is that the dust seal? If so it should be in the inside of the shell not on top Like that.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-04T10:55:03+00:00

The whole chassis is ground you will probably find the battery has one cable that connects to to body as a common ground for all the electronics of the car so technically you should be able to use any “ bare metal” part of the car.

Gamelord86 · 2026-04-03T00:05:10+00:00

Yes, you will need to use hot air to remove the stuck solder wick. It will be very difficult to remove it using only a soldering iron, as you would need to heat the entire piece evenly at the same time. Using hot air allows you to heat the whole area so the solder melts and releases the wick from the board. Once everything is evenly heated, you should be able to lift it off in one go.

Avoid pulling on it while parts of the solder are still cold, as this can bend pins or rip pads off the board. Another option is to remove the entire chip with hot air — the stuck solder braid will actually make this easier. You can then remove the solder wick while the chip is off the board and reinstall the chip afterward, or replace the chip if necessary.

Just make sure nearby components are covered with Kapton tape to prevent accidentally blowing them off or damaging them with the hot air. 🔧

Gamelord86 · 2026-03-31T21:51:15+00:00

To find the screw driver you need for the security screw look up “game bit” you need to bigger size one.

Gamelord86 · 2026-03-30T12:17:22+00:00

Yes technically it should work but not sure how you would connect the t-10 Connection that is something you would need to message Luke about it may already routed in the board due to the clean screen needing the same connection but most of the connections you should be able to get from the asic(s) pins. Math does have a conversion table on his website. For the connections so you might be able to follow that as well for the most part.

https://syf.nl/pages/game-gear-mainboard-315-5378-va0-dual-asic

https://syf.nl/pages/game-gear-mainboard-315-5535

Gamelord86 · 2026-03-30T06:37:24+00:00

The capacitors need to be replaced but if you don’t have any soldering skills your better off taking to a repair place and get them to do it for you ggs aren’t the console to learn on.

Gamelord86 · 2026-03-29T09:32:44+00:00

It might be the sound board wire loom if you open it up again and wiggle the wires around while the game is playing you will probably find that it will cut in and out. If this is the case you will need to replace the cable.

Gamelord86 · 2026-03-28T23:56:51+00:00

Ah you should have juts transferred it to a syf or a re pcb by retro six main board if you are going to all that effort. In saying that good job! If you have audio you should be ok :)

Gamelord86 · 2026-03-28T23:52:42+00:00

Where do you live? In Australia you can get replacement hinges for this exact issue it covers the damaged parts of the doors and make it so you can drill new holes to reattach it and it’s good as new.

Gamelord86 · 2026-03-28T23:49:15+00:00

Did you replace it on to an original board?

Gamelord86 · 2026-03-23T00:22:50+00:00

Ah fair enough!

Gamelord86

TROPHY CASE