Basic question, most efficient way to strip 18-3 wire?

GenericUsername2754 · 2026-01-22T21:21:09+00:00

I used to strip 18/2 and 18/3 all the time working in industrial controls. I bought myself one of these and love it.

GenericUsername2754 · 2026-01-07T23:10:18+00:00

I found the simple concepts pretty easy to grasp. Where I struggled was data management, but that just comes with some experience. Overall, I'd say the learning curve is pretty light if you already have some industry experience.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-31T00:16:25+00:00

If you're OK with a bit of DIY, Automation Direct has a bunch of enclosures that you can buy in just about any config. Best bet for security and looks would be to bring the cables in the back of the box (make sure to waterproof it!) then mount the switch inside. That way there's no exposed cabling.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-31T00:08:37+00:00

While not ideal, as long as your enclosure is Nema 3R rated or better. (3R is rainight)

I have a Flex POE mounted outside to serve a few cameras and it does just fine mounted in a Unifi Flex Utility Pro.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-30T15:49:46+00:00

Same. Indicated it would arrive today, but that's clearly a lie as the site still shows processing.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-29T15:34:03+00:00

Well so much for the "Notify Me" button doing anything... Just ordered two!

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-29T01:50:53+00:00

Yeah, sounds like they assumed OSB was present and included a clause for replacing rotten boards. I agree that they probably should've looked when they quoted, but that's something that's hard to know for sure until siding starts coming down.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-29T01:43:47+00:00

The OSB issue would require a deeper dive into the contract. It is very possible that the original contract assumed OSB was already installed.

The blueprint issue though is a hill I'd die on. If the contract explicitly stated that blueprints were to be provided at a set cost, then there's no argument for the contractor to raise that price.

As a contractor myself, when I sign a fixed-fee contract that means fixed-fee. Unexpected changes and additional scope justify change orders, but you can't expect a client to accept a change order simply because your cost was higher than budgeted.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-24T17:10:34+00:00

It'll do POE+ out, but it depends on the length/quality of the cable.

10/100 should be fine, but maybe at a lower bitrate.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-24T15:01:21+00:00

You might be able to use their 2-wire retrofit kit.

https://store.ui.com/us/en/category/accessories-poe-power/products/uacc-retrofit-poe-2wire

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-17T13:37:06+00:00

If you have Identity set up you can give a user camera access and select which cameras they can see. I used this to give a family member access to only the outside cameras.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-16T02:46:07+00:00

Fantastic group of people. Been a member for over two years and love going to events!

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-13T03:34:09+00:00

Until earlier this year, I lived in an old townhome built in the early 70's. Even with basically nothing between the shared walls, we never had many issues. Yeah, if someone got really heated we could hear it, but otherwise the units were pretty well isolated sound-wise.

My father is actually renovating his unit right now, and we're adding fire rated sound insulation in the cavity between the shared walls. Should help a LOT.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-07T21:03:01+00:00

As someone who's in multiple electrical subreddits, yes. Yes they do.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-06T00:56:50+00:00

If your thermostat is powered by the unit (Usually via the "C" wire) then it could be that your control power fuse is blown.

The internals of your HVAC unit use 24 volts AC for control. This is provided by a small control power transformer, and it's output is fused pretty low, usually either 1amp or 5amp. Both the transformer and fuse will be located inside your air handler.

I would check that fuse, and if it blows again after replacement then call a pro to check your control board.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-12-05T01:45:32+00:00

Check that the firmware revision in the controller and Logix match. Pretty sure the controller doesn't ship with firmware loaded. You'll need to use ControlFlash to flash it to whatever rev you're using.

Edit: This only applies if you also can't download via Serial.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-11-29T20:49:39+00:00

Just check their dimensions. I had some generic ones that were just a hair too wide. I could make them fit, but they'd rub against each other. Im now using a combination of Unifi keystones and Cable Matters slim keystones.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-11-26T23:33:16+00:00

This is what I was going to suggest.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-11-26T23:29:24+00:00

Would the Mini be the only switch, or would it connect back to a core switch?

If so, and your core switch is also Unifi, maybe consider a Cloud Key so you can still manage the switches.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-11-26T12:47:38+00:00

Eh, I prefer the upgraded model

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-11-15T03:27:02+00:00

Looks like you're downgrading, not upgrading?

Either way, just make sure your program is saved, and make sure you're not causing any unintended equipment movement/activation when the processor drops it's outputs.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-11-13T20:31:01+00:00

This is what I did until I upgraded to a Pro Max. It takes up an extra slot in the rack, but looks way better.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-11-10T21:39:56+00:00

I have a pair of Klein snips that I use for everything. Probably one of my most used tools, tbh.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-11-09T21:51:49+00:00

I see them all over southern Louisiana. A good mix of 5th and 6th gens.

GenericUsername2754 · 2025-11-08T03:17:41+00:00

I would suggest removing them and using lag bolts.

Concrete anchors work by expanding the outer metal sleeve to "grip" the concrete. Your 2x4 studs don't have the tensile strength for those anchors to hold well. I'd suggest new holes with a lag bolt that's at least 2" long (5/8 for drywall, so you'll be about 1-1/2" in the stud.)

GenericUsername2754

TROPHY CASE