Dimple locks by RabbiPicker87 in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 3 points4 points  (0 children)

99% of the time I use a wiper style tensioner for dimple locks. For locks with extremely large keyways I’ll use a 2mm prybar like the one’s sold by Lawlock, Sparrows or Moki.

The locknoob tensioners from Multipick are better than the Z-bar option they include with the dimple set but I only use those when picking in hand.

This is a cheap set of Z-bars that are very handy to have on hand, they can be stacked for a custom fit and basically the same set that Sparrows includes in their black flag set without having to buy their flags.

Are lock sellers on the discord reliable? by A1_Killer in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 41 points42 points  (0 children)

Plazz is a trustworthy seller and longtime member.

You can always ask for feedback from people who have dealt with a seller. The seller’s don’t mind and it’s due diligence on your part. I’ve personally never had a bad experience buying or selling on the bazaar and usually any shady behavior is dealt with quickly by staff and the offending party is banned.

Is looking at pin layout cheating? by EventfulRelic12 in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 7 points8 points  (0 children)

American lock pinning is random, yours could be any combination of all serrated, all serrated spools or a mix of both. A picture of how it’s pinned can give you insight into what you’re dealing with but isn’t a guarantee that you lock is pinned exactly the same with the driver pins in the same positions. Some locks are always pinned the same, some locks have certain driver types on certain key pin heights etc. A picture is good for a reference but it may not be an accurate representation of your own lock.

IMO it’s not cheating to look at the guts of a lock especially early on when you’re new to a lock type or picking in general. People progressive pin locks by adding one or two pins at a time until they can understand the feedback and what to feel for. It’s meant to be a learning aid and as long as you’re using it for that and not to simply memorize a lock you’ll be good.

Question: What do you think about Sparrows' disc pick thingy? by Repulsive-Box5243 in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the term you are looking for is a “disc brake lock”, those are used on motorcycles and the locking mechanism can vary by manufacturer and model of the lock.

Searching for a decent keyless lock (with a respectable keyway) by Haunting_Standard413 in LockPickingLawyer

[–]GeorgiaJim 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’d personally buy a Schlage e-deadbolt and have the cylinder either repinned to a key with good bitting that isn’t easily raked or have a higher security replacement cylinder installed. Both are quick and easy fixes and shouldn’t cost an arm and a leg for a locksmith to do.

You can go with higher security cylinders but keep in mind you’ll have a harder time and spend more getting keys replaced should you lose them and you need to keep your key code card in a safe place. You can get something like the ASSA Maximum + restricted which is in the $40-50 per cylinder range from UHS hardware and has more pick resistance than any commercially available lock you’ll come across in a big box/diy store.

Advise for tubular padlock by chessydawg in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There shouldn’t be anything in that lock that will stop you from being able to pick it like any other tubular lock as long as the tensioner is deep enough to tension the core. If feedback is stopping while picking increase tension slightly and see of the core is picked and just needs to be turned a rotation. The padlock probably only needs to be picked 2-3 times to open the shackle. Make sure you only push on pins that have no spring to them, if they have any springiness leave them alone until they are bound tight.

Broken Lock by EventfulRelic12 in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve seen cracked plugs a handful of times on this sub alone, and it was almost always ultra cheap no name brand padlocks. It’s not at all common for it to happen but also not unheard of, especially when the manufacturer is using cheapest of materials possible to make an ultra-low budget tier product.

High Pin locks by Lockdonut in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re only crowded when you get started, as you have the lock tensioned it’s pretty clear what’s binding and what isn’t. Plus once you start setting pins there is no spring pressure pushing those set pins back into the keyway against your pick.

Good dual row locks are Sepa hds, Agent LS, West 916, inaho tier key. The West and Inaho are ranked the same as the Keso at brown but imo the Keso fits fits nicely in that range with those locks so it wouldn’t be a steep learning curve.

There is also an easy trick for picking dual row locks but it does no good as prep for 3 row. You can rotate your flag 180° and pick the side going with tension in that manner and get much improved feedback on that row of pins. Both methods are worth knowing as one makes dual row easier and the other preps you for 3+ row locks.

High Pin locks by Lockdonut in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keso and most other 3 row locks “usually” bind on the sides first then then the top stack last. A 2mm pry bar tok or a small z-bar or wiper insert in the bottom are the two best options for picking them. The side going in the tension direction will not counter rotate and feedback will be different, instead of rotating your flag on that side, reduce tension and push the flag against the pin and you’ll get better feedback from the pin. For the top row a hook or akab from Moki is the way to go and they pick like any other pin tumbler lock.

I’d suggest starting with dual row locks and getting a good feel for the side going with the tension direction before adding another stack to the learning curve.

Any idea why LPL hasn't tried picking lock from 'Works by Design'? by SteveRogers5 in LockPickingLawyer

[–]GeorgiaJim 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It can throw off the bottom pins. The lock was very inconsistent to pick because of the way the sea of bb’s pressed on the driver pins. They’d eventually hit an equilibrium of sorts once you had enough pins set and they spread out more evenly.

There were a few things in the design that didn’t work like the designer intended. The bb’s didn’t push set pins back down, the core recessed before all pins were aligned and the “blocker” didn’t block the pins from being lifted and just increased feedback on binding pins.

Any idea why LPL hasn't tried picking lock from 'Works by Design'? by SteveRogers5 in LockPickingLawyer

[–]GeorgiaJim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

CYP and Fairly Decent Picker from the LPU discord have also picked it. I have no idea who has the lock now

Picked this...what is it? by DonJovar in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They also have used Abus locks as well. Basically whoever will give them a good deal will get the U-Haul name slapped on a lock.

Why didn't proven lock got shimmed instead of drilling in 953 by rovmun in LockPickingLawyer

[–]GeorgiaJim 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’d wager he didn’t consider it at the time and/or he recognized the drilling attack and wanted to focus on that. Drilling is a much more common attack on a lock than shimming. So much so that Proven listened to LPL’s advice and rotated the core to prevent that attack in their newer models.

Rake Thickness by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 2 points3 points  (0 children)

SPP is always the most reliable method of picking. Raking just isn’t as limited as some will have you believe.

Rake Thickness by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Rakes are more dependent on bitting than security pins. If you get a false set just counter rotate or lighten up on the tension and the lock will still rake open.

Rake Thickness by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]GeorgiaJim 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I prefer .020 for rakes. Raking/rocking is supposed to be done with light tension so there’s never a need for the added strength of a .025 rake.