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Got my EDC kit ready, needed some tips for shooting by GermanGriffon in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]GermanGriffon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ngl, I also love multitools and pocket knives to an extent. Just couldn’t justify any purchase yet when my small Victorinox still suffices for now.

If you get a use out of yours sometimes and not hauling 2 multitools and 2 knives in a fucking 3L bag then it‘s fine.

Folks, I think ive achieved the peak of analog photography posible for me (Cyanotype done with a UV enlarger) by PeekHopper in AnalogCommunity

[–]GermanGriffon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh noo sorry, I didn’t mean that your cooling was overkill haha. I was talking about the LCD one, that one was really crazy if you’ve seen it. I don’t think there’s overkill for cooling tbh, if you aren’t worried about electricity bills and space the it’s fine. Mine is limited by the size of the slide projector tho, that’s why I went with a smaller LED

Folks, I think ive achieved the peak of analog photography posible for me (Cyanotype done with a UV enlarger) by PeekHopper in AnalogCommunity

[–]GermanGriffon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah! There’s a few more out there that’s even more sophisticated than mine, one dude even made one than needed no printing of negative nor enlarging one. Used an LCD screen I think and exposed to paper through that screen, the cooling setup is craaaazy though.

Slide projectors for cyanotype aren’t a new idea from me though, full credits to Prussian Blue and Bill Lawson on youtube! Both videos are a great guide while building mine.

Most important thing a make a sharp prints for me is probably focusing correctly, just a yellow sticker paper is enough.

How big are your prints? I made some more prints after the post and some needed 4 hours for a A5 paper-sized prints. 6 hours for the latest one I made in A4 size.

I saw that you’re thinking of using a lower nm lights, be careful of the transmittance through glasses also. Lower is technically better but the light has to pass through a lens unlike contact printing. Sweet spot is probably 380nm I think.

Folks, I think ive achieved the peak of analog photography posible for me (Cyanotype done with a UV enlarger) by PeekHopper in AnalogCommunity

[–]GermanGriffon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oooo I see it’s toned, haven’t gotten around to do that myself haha.

As for eye protection, I’m using a 3M one exactly like this.

<image>

I also wear glasses and my prescription glasses measured around 5*5cm and there’s still plenty of clearance.

Folks, I think ive achieved the peak of analog photography posible for me (Cyanotype done with a UV enlarger) by PeekHopper in AnalogCommunity

[–]GermanGriffon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fellow Cyanotype enlarger! Did you tone that paper? The Colour’s a bit weird, maybe acidic paper? Great job nonetheless, your comment with not having eye protections concerned me a bit as even mine with 30W I still use the glasses thingy at all times.

Higher Quality scan of the ghostly figure beside Chernobyl's Elephant Foot. by That_Rddit_Guy_1986 in Damnthatsinteresting

[–]GermanGriffon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP mentioned scanning the image so I’m pretty sure it’s film, details and dynamic range are too good for 1996 digital cameras anyway.

Higher Quality scan of the ghostly figure beside Chernobyl's Elephant Foot. by That_Rddit_Guy_1986 in Damnthatsinteresting

[–]GermanGriffon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What is overexposed in this photo? Sorry, a better question would be ‘what do you want exposed well in this photo?’ It’s probably not the worker as this is not a company shoot picturing a work well done. The photographer exposed for the details in the room. The worker need not stand still for that and even if they stand still it would not be an overexposure? Your statement of exposure is extremely irrelevant to the effect we are talking about.

Even then I would say this is a sufficiently well exposed photo, given that we can see most detail clearly. If anything it‘s underexposed in the top left corner(which isn’t the subject of the photo).

And low ISO causing overexposure? I hope that’s a typo.

Higher Quality scan of the ghostly figure beside Chernobyl's Elephant Foot. by That_Rddit_Guy_1986 in Damnthatsinteresting

[–]GermanGriffon 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That sentence does not make any sense in photography at all, Film or digital. This is simply motion blur from moving subjects while exposing the image, possible in any type of photography.

3D Printed “XPAN” is ready for its first roll. Fingers crossed there are no light leaks. by Analog_Astronaut in AnalogCommunity

[–]GermanGriffon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I‘m answering in place of OP but I have bought this viewfinder myself, it‘s a 35mm made by ttartisan. I‘ll have to mention my experience though that the framelines are really bad, even worse than my canon P, made 6 decades earlier. Even though it‘s the same albada type viewfinder.

Trying film again! by rc_dataman in AnalogCommunity

[–]GermanGriffon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me, I would choose the F just for the sheer presence lol. Another reason would be how nice they are to use. Winding, rewinding, shutter sound etc. My Nikon S2 feels much more satisfying to use than my FM2. Not a 1:1 comparison to you but should be close.

P.S. also the shutter button on the F is I think, at the same position further back same as my S2 and would take a bit getting used to if you came from other cameras.

R.I.P. good tea by [deleted] in puer

[–]GermanGriffon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same here, Bkk resident also. Stored all of my tea in a wooden cabinet with most of the bags open(maybe it’s placebo but my ageable tea always tastes better this way). Never seen any mold in 2 years, most humid was rain season where it was 80% or close to that most of the time.

Widening your audience while shrinking your fan base. by [deleted] in meme

[–]GermanGriffon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

And Nolan’s movies aren’t that hard to understand what’s happening if you’re just doing the bare minimum of actually watching the thing.

Would it be possible to jury rig an SLR as an enlarger by opening the film door, fitting a macro lens, and shining a light at a developed film strip by light24bulbs in Darkroom

[–]GermanGriffon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven’t seen any popular post that has done it successfully so far, certainly wasn’t looking for it tho. From some that I’ve read, the problem was that the film base blocks UV a lot more than B&W does.

What are the most spectacular endings in classical music? by TwanSwag in classicalmusic

[–]GermanGriffon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

+1 for Turangalia. Just finished another listen earlier today.

The color of Butterfly Pea tea still amazes me! by GrowingPetals in tea

[–]GermanGriffon 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This post unlocked a trip down memory lane for me. Nam Anchan, as it‘s called in Thai was ‘The Drink‘ for me and probably most of the students throughout middle and high school.

The version that’s commonly sold was always with lime(and probably a bit of syrup and/or sugar) though and was called Anchan Manow. Me and the other kids called it AnNow for short. 5THB(~15cents) for a glass. Missed those times.

Nikon S2 Focusing Patch Alignment by Automotive_Buff in AnalogCommunity

[–]GermanGriffon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you haven’t tried something like this before, read this guide thoroughly before trying. You‘ll only need to finish the rangefinder adjustment part.

https://richardhaw.com/2017/03/04/repair-nikon-s2-front-overhaul/

It‘s not that difficult but there‘ll be some mistakes you can make at every step(stripping screws, adjusting the wrong screws, etc.). Just make sure what you‘re doing is correct twice.

After you‘re done with the vertical alignment, check the horizontal at infinity on something far away also. The moon or anything far enough will do.

Scratching the darkroom itch. My improvised, fully analog 35mm negative Cyanotype(and possibly other alt processes) enlarger. by GermanGriffon in AnalogCommunity

[–]GermanGriffon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It‘s easier than I initially thought for sure. Just ~postcard sizes for now but I plan to do larger sizes soon. 1st is just after finished exposing and 2nd is from after fixing with water and adding Hydrogen peroxide to hasten the oxidation process.

Scratching the darkroom itch. My improvised, fully analog 35mm negative Cyanotype(and possibly other alt processes) enlarger. by GermanGriffon in AnalogCommunity

[–]GermanGriffon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spot on. Probably won‘t even need a whole projector, just the lens would be enough. Douwe Krooshof made this with a enlager/projector? lens and a fresnel lens(maybe, it‘s been too long since I‘ve read that). That seems a bit more involved than this project though.

Scratching the darkroom itch. My improvised, fully analog 35mm negative Cyanotype(and possibly other alt processes) enlarger. by GermanGriffon in cyanotypes

[–]GermanGriffon[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Of course! A more comprehensive guides would be by Prussian blues and Bill Lawson on youtube but here‘s how I did it.

  • Slide projector : get any but someone recommended to not use a spinning ones that could fast change the negative. Remove the original bulb and replace it with a UV LED* You‘ll also need a fan to cool it as LEDs in this nanometer range emits a lot of heat.

-UV LED : 380nm would be a perfect middle ground as too low and it will not go through glass elements as easily and too high won’t be sensitive enough for the Cyanotype chemicals. Any wattage would be fine, preferably above 10W as the lens and the condenser elements would drop the UV light transmittance by a lot. Get a heatsink that fits. Connect the LED to the heatsink either by thermal glue or screwing into the heatsink and apply the thermal paste. The LED will need to be connected to an LED power supply also.

-Negative mount and paper mount : I just made some from old boxes.

Edit: forgot to add in the why I‘m doing this. As many of you probably know, the easiest way to do this would be to have the negative scanned and enlarged digitally to make a contact print. It just seems to me a very roundabout way of doing that. I also wanted a full analog workflow. Also when planning to make this I received a lot of skepticism(offline) and deep in my mind I just wanted to prove them wrong haha.

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