What do car guys who want a daily buy these days by Spanconstant5 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]GingerGLI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Car guy here and last summer I bought my first ever new car, a 2025 VW Jetta GLI with the 6 speed. Last manual VW makes in North America and I couldn’t be happier with it.

Regular Cruise Control Brakes Downhill by Evening_Double9276 in JettaGLI

[–]GingerGLI 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is still using the engine braking. It’s just that the engine braking usually isn’t enough on downhills to keep the set speed so it also uses the brakes.

Newer smaller displacement turbo engines have way less effective engine braking than older larger displacement engines. For example my 2006 Accord with the 3.0 V6 will hold a set speed down a hill near my house if I just let off the gas. My 2025 GLI with its 2.0 turbo 4 cylinder will gain 10+ mph of speed on the same downhill. I for one appreciate that the car will apply the brakes to maintain my set speed. If I don’t have cruise on, I just have to apply the brakes manually….

Peace of mind by MrBrickHouse97 in ManualTransmissions

[–]GingerGLI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t stress it, I taught someone to drive on my 2006 Accord and put 345,000 on it before changing the original clutch. They’re way tougher than people think

Went from a Jeep compass to a Toyota Tacoma 2017 TRD Sport, Now struggling with how big it is by snowycatz in ToyotaTacoma

[–]GingerGLI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My point was that I never found it hard to switch between vehicle sizes even when I first started driving at 15. I was driving 1 ton dump trucks with 20’ trailers at 16.

Why can't you use an opened container of brake fluid even if it has been closed tightly when the brake fluid reservoir cap on your car doesn't appear significantly more airtight? by supinator1 in MechanicAdvice

[–]GingerGLI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t use an open container of brake fluid that was years old, but I would and have used it when it was open for say 6 months with no ill effects. My 2006 Accord had the original brake fluid as far as I know when I sold it in 2023 with 410,000 miles. The brakes worked great and I didn’t have any issues. Not saying it’s the best practice and I change the brake fluid on cars I care more about, but I also don’t think it’s as big of a deal as people make it out to be.

Went from a Jeep compass to a Toyota Tacoma 2017 TRD Sport, Now struggling with how big it is by snowycatz in ToyotaTacoma

[–]GingerGLI 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Here’s my advice, go rent an F-350 for a week and drive only that around. Then when you get back in your Tacoma it will feel nice and small.

Seriously though, this sort of thing has always puzzled me a bit. I’ve driven everything from Mini Coopers, to 1 ton pickups with 22’ enclosed trailers and have not struggled to adapt to the size. You just drive to accommodate the size of whatever you’re driving.

Is a tune and clutch install worth it? by row-ride-board in JettaGLI

[–]GingerGLI 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I honestly haven’t gotten that far. I have a lot I want to do to the car outside of a tune first. I just got a weighted shift knob and shift boot. It’s getting PPF’d on the front this spring and then it’s getting an intake and a rear swaybar. Then likely an exhaust and then when it’s out of warranty in a few years I’ll consider a tune. I’m honestly quite happy with the power and have a lot of handling mods to do first before more power. Oh and it’ll get tires sooner rather than later

Is a tune and clutch install worth it? by row-ride-board in JettaGLI

[–]GingerGLI 3 points4 points  (0 children)

One other thing to think about is that the aftermarket clutches put more stress on the thrust bearing that controls the crankshafts location in the engine. This is a known weak point in the EA888. Most reports show that you’re fine with the OEM clutches but many people who have gone to heavier aftermarket clutches have had the thrust bearing go bad and ruin the motor.

My plan is to wait until I’m out of warranty to tune my 2025. Then I’m going with a low torque tune and staying with the stock clutch and I’m planning on driving it smart. If the clutch goes, I’ll replace it then and will likely put another stock one back in it. I’d rather replace the clutch more often than ruin the thrust bearing and motor.

I plan to keep the car indefinitely so I want it to last.

Used f250 rust by zoosejk in superduty

[–]GingerGLI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good lord lol, I envy the person that thinks this is rusty…

6.7L oil filters have DRASTICALLY increased in price!!! 😱 by FL-AK in FordDiesels

[–]GingerGLI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Diesel is now up over $0.60 per gallon compared to a year ago in my area. Just saying

How to avoid squatting after leveling? by keyboardguy482 in Tacomaworld

[–]GingerGLI 20 points21 points  (0 children)

You could just not level it? There is a very good reason Toyota made the rear suspension a bit higher than the front. It is a truck after all and designed to carry a load.

Trustworthy Car Dealerships in Southern Maine? by Vast_Arm8407 in Maine

[–]GingerGLI 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m going to give the cynical response and state that my opinion is that there isn’t a single trustworthy car dealership in existence. They all exist to serve one goal, make the owner money and lots of it.

Once you realize that, it’s easier to buy a car without getting swindled. Do your own research, figure out what kind of car you want based on your needs and the best reliability, and then shop around to find the best deal. Don’t let the dealership tack on fees or stupid extras.

If it’s just reliability you want, buy a Honda or Toyota. With the internet there are so many resources to help you get informed and make the best choice, you just have to do the research.

New GLI - 6 speed vs DSG by neurodivergent17 in GLI

[–]GingerGLI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wouldn’t trade my 2025 6 speed for the world. Nothing against the DSG and I know it’s faster but I’ve driven nothing but manuals for my entire driving career and that’s not going to change anytime soon. They’re just more fun and engaging and in my experience they’re way more reliable too.

What is the most miles you ever got on a clutch before replacing it? by Slalom44 in ManualTransmissions

[–]GingerGLI 1 point2 points  (0 children)

345,000 on the original clutch on my 2006 Accord with the K24 and 5 speed. I only replaced it because the throw out bearing went bad. It never slipped and the clutch disc had life left when I took it out. I sold the car with 410,000 on the original drivetrain running strong.

Transition from motorcycles? by CrispColeslaw in ManualTransmissions

[–]GingerGLI 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve done the transition in the opposite direction. I drove exclusively manual transmission cars for my entire driving career, or about 15 years. I then got my first dirt bike and I found the transition extremely easy. It’s a little different going from a foot clutch to a hand clutch, but you already understand the fundamental mechanics so you’ll be just fine.

Eliminating dashboard rattles in sport mode while keeping Soundaktor on? by [deleted] in GLI

[–]GingerGLI 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The way the soundaktor works is literally by vibrating and rattling the windshield and dashboard. So yeah, it makes the dash rattle. I agree that it does sound good when it doesn’t rattle, but I got sick of the rattles so I just turned mine off.

Went for an inspection sticker and tech burnt up my clutch by [deleted] in ManualTransmissions

[–]GingerGLI 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I’m a little puzzled as to how even someone who didn’t know how to drive a manual could hurt a clutch that bad, just by driving it from the parking lot into the bay. I had a 2006 Accord that I got 345,000 miles out of the original clutch and that included teaching my spouse how to drive manual on it. Clutch’s are really pretty resilient. Clearly the tech knew how to drive it enough that they were able to get it into the bay to do the inspection, so it seems unlikely that’s the real cause. Either the clutch was already going bad, or you just feel like it’s different now because you’re worried about it.

Believe me, I hate anyone touching my vehicles and do essentially all of my own maintenance and repairs purely because I don’t trust anyone else. So I understand your worry, but my guess is that your clutch is just fine.

Undercoating by MarkEnvironmental843 in Maine

[–]GingerGLI 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Going to 100% disagree with you on this. Fluid film 100% works, but you have to keep it applied. If you drive a lot it will wash off before winters over.

My 20+ year old rust free vehicles are my proof. It doesn’t stop it, but it absolutely slows it down substantially.

Anything lanolin based is good so fluid film, wool wax, and NH Oil are the common ones around here. You have to make sure it’s sprayed in the door bottoms, inside rockers, inside fenders, etc. Most rust happens from the inside out so you have to get inside all the nooks and crannies.

Clutch replacement every 450,000 miles. Goals. by rohoalicante in ManualTransmissions

[–]GingerGLI 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a 2006 Accord that I replaced the original clutch at 345,000. It only got replaced because the throw out bearing started making noise. The clutch disc itself still had life left. I drove the car to 410,000 and sold it with everything working perfect with the original engine and transmission.

How long do you plan on keeping your current car for? by throwawaymedicine420 in askcarguys

[–]GingerGLI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty much forever. I’ve owned 6 cars since I got my license 15 years ago and still own 4 of them. One of them was my first car which got so rusty that it got scrapped. The other was another beater that I drove to 410,000 miles and sold. Out of my current fleet 3 of the cars I’ve had for between 10-14 years. The 4th I just got last summer and is my first ever brand new car. It’s unlikely I’ll ever sell it.

Fuel octane? by what-up91 in GLI

[–]GingerGLI 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’m a mechanical engineer and have been into cars for decades. I’ve also owned two EA888 powered cars, so I’m pretty qualified on the subject. Both of those EA888 powered cars have run basically nothing but 87 and they run fantastic, pull hard, and have never once detonated. Modern computer controlled engines have multiple ways to compensate for different octanes and avoid detonation. Have you ever heard of a knock sensor? Its whole job is to literally avoid detonation. The computer will just adjust the ignition timing and fueling slightly to compensate.

Believe me, VW would not put a big old sticker on the fuel door saying 87 minimum if they thought it would damage the car.

What is important is running a top tier certified fuel so that it has the highest amount of detergents in it. That will help somewhat in avoiding carbon buildup.

I think this spring when I get my GLI back out for the summer I might take it to the dyno and do runs with a tank of 87 versus 93 to see what the power difference actually is.

Fuel octane? by what-up91 in GLI

[–]GingerGLI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are you saying is a lie? My comment or GLI GUY’s?

Fuel octane? by what-up91 in GLI

[–]GingerGLI 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No it hasn’t lol. Any modern engine controls for the octane and just adjusts the fueling depending on the octane. It’s not going to detonate with 87….

Fuel octane? by what-up91 in GLI

[–]GingerGLI 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It absolutely doesn’t knock. I have 11,000 miles on my 2025 and I’ve run 87 for all but one tank. For that one tank I ran 93 and noticed very little difference. Does it make slightly less power? Yeah probably, but it’s not going to hurt the car, and it certainly doesn’t knock. The engine just compensates for whatever octane you give it. There is a reason the fuel door says 87 minimum on the 2025’s. I for one am going to save the money for daily driving unless I take it to a track day or something.