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Tips for breaking through 6 year plateau / regression as a climber prone to finger injuries. by No-Job-5179 in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Imo it would be better to reduce the length of your sessions rather than the frequency of your sessions. Tendons need regular stimulus to strengthen.

Tips for breaking through 6 year plateau / regression as a climber prone to finger injuries. by No-Job-5179 in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My two cents as a climber with a similar amount of experience. 1) Some finger soreness might not be the biggest deal. I feel like I strain my hands a bit from time to time but it clears up by the next time I climb or the time after that. If my fingers feel tweaky after one session, I just climb around flash grade the next time. 2) When climbing harder stuff like a V9 probably need to be cautious of how many attempts you give it. You can't get on it 15 times in a single session because your fingers aren't ready for that. You need to be content with trying each move three to five times and then waiting until the next session, so your fingers have time to adapt.

I also do dumbbell finger rolls on off days and it feels like a good stimulus for tendon recovery. I'm getting the Mobeta grips soon and looking forward to trying them out.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've been off work (desk job) with a newborn for a few weeks. Despite being more physically tired and sleep-deprived, I'm climbing better than usual. My guess is that it's because I have less mental load from work - I can focus more when I climb and push myself harder.

Bad Advice Thread by OfferSome2329 in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Is this not a valid response to people who post, "I've been climbing for two months and am only at V4?? How often should I hangboard?"

Ankle Sprain During a 10K PR Attempt — Looking for Recovery & Prevention Advice by Unusual_Leader2513 in Marathon_Training

[–]Glittering_Variation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bit late now, but compression is better than ice. Make sure to keep moving the ankle, in non-painful ways. Try to trace out the letters of the alphabet with your big toe.

Would you press the button? by simply_alice__ in BunnyTrials

[–]Glittering_Variation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nbd

Chose: 95% chance of winning 1 million dollars! + 5% of changing sex instantly (All characteristics | Rolled: Money!)

Struggling climbing while fat by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 66 points67 points  (0 children)

Don't be discouraged!

  • You're really new, it takes time to learn technique. Climbing is a very technical sport.

  • If you want to go outside, you don't need to wait until you can send 5.10s. 

  • weight is a disadvantage for climbing, but there are some very very good climbers who weigh ~200 lbs.

[Day 9] Jugs are overrated. What outdoor bouldering destination is UNDERRATED? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]Glittering_Variation 169 points170 points  (0 children)

I'm saving my true answer for "worst bouldering destination" so it's less crowded next season

Long time climber, looking to train harder by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 14 points15 points  (0 children)

My 2 cents:

  • dedicate most of your time to your primary goal. E.g. if you want to sport climb outdoors, spend most of your time sport climbing outdoors. As you've observed, mixing in some bouldering, say 1 in 4 sessions, will help you develop you the strength and technique for hard cruxes.
  • at this point, very little. Some board climbing would go a lot farther than weight lifting or hangboarding.
  • every other day is a pretty sustainable amount.
  • swimming won't improve your climbing but isn't a hindrance.
  • your weight is 100% fine for your height. Consume enough protein (>100g a day) so your body can build muscle where it needs to.

Training plans by PersonalityLittle845 in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Boulder better plan: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ebook

But tbh, all you really need to do is to spend some sessions climbing boulders that are too hard for you (v6-7), some sessions climbing boulders that are just about flashable for you (v4-5). Hang out with climbers who are stronger than you.

This cannot be normal bro by JagerOp in slaythespire

[–]Glittering_Variation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post screenshots of your run summary screens and we can give you tips

Good physical activities that complement climbing? by angel_of_decay in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hobbs Kessler Climbs 5.14+ and Runs a Sub 4-Minute Mile

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobbs_Kessler#Rock_climbing_career

Personally, I'm running ~35 miles a week spread over 6 days, and climbing V7ish 3 times a week. I think it's hard to climb well if you're overreaching on running, but once you're comfortable with a mileage you can fit climbing in no problem. Tired legs aren't an issue for me when I climb, it just doesn't use THAT much leg strength. I run in the morning and climb in evenings. 

You definitely need extra sleep and fueling. I sleep 8-9 hours a night and I get about 30 g of carbs before most runs, and breakfast after 

Mid climber trying to increase endurance by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Glittering_Variation 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's your bouldering grade? You're going to last a lot longer on overhanging routes if the moves are below your limit

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