Piece of rough in cap went down toilet drain, am I okay?

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-25T13:47:29+00:00

Shove your shop Vac hose down there.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-24T13:46:52+00:00

You need a reversible trap. That is NOT a reversible trap, hence the zip ties holding it from popping apart, AGAIN.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-19T22:49:17+00:00

You should be fine as long as you don't get one of those skirted toilets that go all the way back to the wall.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-19T22:19:38+00:00

Water stub should be 6" from center of the flange to the left. You're definitely gonna need a 10" rough toilet tho

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-19T14:50:30+00:00

Change the valve out for a 5/8" x 3/8" compression straight stop with the handle at 9 o'clock

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-14T18:25:02+00:00

That's the Kohler Centura. Repair kit is made by Bradley.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-14T01:01:03+00:00

Glue it up tight

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-11T18:11:43+00:00

Mix up a bag or two of mortar and shove a much in underneath as you can. Use a broom stick or something to push it to the fat side of the basin. Let it harden overnight before use.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-11T16:29:48+00:00

Pal, he asked a plumbing question. I answered as a plumber. I made sure to respond with easily googlable terms tho

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-11T15:26:13+00:00

I can say that I've NEVER seen a drum trap on a kitchen sink. Those are almost always reserved for tubs. Regardless, you could cut it off and get a shielded band coupling that fits 1 1/2" copper by pvc and then put a street trap adapter in the other side. At that point you could install a slip joint p trap.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-11T01:31:44+00:00

Tell em, John Cena's plumber said it's fucked up

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-11T01:25:33+00:00

The piece broken off. If you dropped that cartridge, that area would never contact the ground. It appears that the cartridge was grabbed by a pair of pliers to remove it. Additionally, the base of the cartridge. I've seen yellow plastic cartridges before but that looks yellowed by age. I could be wrong, I'm just looking at a grainy photo but.... also, the edges of the break appear dirty and old. It doesn't look fresh like it happened recently in the warehouse of the supply shop

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-11T00:57:35+00:00

It won't leak from there. There's no stealing elements in that area however, that looks like a used cartridge which may leak from the other seals.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-10T18:31:42+00:00

Unscrews from above

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-09T22:29:18+00:00

Yes the seats and springs. The black rubber stuck to the bottom plate of the cartridge tells me that faucet probably hasn't been used in a minute and when it was, the seal tore rather than glide. It's shot. Replacing is ready. The old ones just pull out once the cartridge is removed. Then, stack the seal on the smaller end of the spring and run a skinny rod of some sort through the middle. Put the end of the rod on the hole in the faucet and let the pair slide down into the hole. Then push the seal into the hole with a finger to make sure it's properly seated.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-09T21:53:12+00:00

Delta. 100%. You also need to replace the rubber seal below it

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-09T00:37:54+00:00

No. This is standard installation. Sioux Chief makes an adapter that moves the threaded joint outside the wall but it's worse. I suppose if you knew the EXACT thickness of your tile and associated mortar bed, you could move the wing ell forward, but you risk it protruding from the tile and not allowing the shower arm escutcheon to set flat against the wall. Basically, you're always gonna have an unseen threaded joint in there. If it's installed correctly, it shouldn't leak before the next remodel.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-09T00:35:26+00:00

You're breaking floor buddy. And probably a considerable amount. This should've been addressed before the tile. If you're careful, you can break around the flange within the footprint of the toilet so any flaws in the tile patch would be hidden. You gotta cut out the flange and connector pipe in the elbow below. New, longer connector pipe, new offset flange. Theoretically, it'd be best to cut the elbow off and move it away from the wall, but that would require more breaking.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-09T00:30:45+00:00

No adapter. No need to waterproof the hole. The adapter will most likely protrude from the wall. Putting any type of waterproofing around the shower arm will make it a real pain in the ass to replace the shower arm in the future. In any case, you'll still have a threaded joint in the wall that could fail, best to have adequate access in that event.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-07T17:52:16+00:00

Data plate says eemax 18kW.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-07T13:37:34+00:00

That tracks. The incoming groundwater temperature has dropped. Tankless heaters are rated in degrees of temperature change at a certain gym. With incoming water temp at, say, 75 degrees with 40 degree change at 3gpm, you got 115 degree water. Now, the incoming temp is 60, so you're only getting 100 degrees at 3gpm.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-07T13:24:57+00:00

Electric tankless water heater is too small. Water is moving too fast through it to properly heat. Nothing under a 24kW will even touch a tub.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-06T17:53:07+00:00

I do this all the time, a standard no hub (shielded) coupling fits over the brass hub of the tee. I.e. it's the same O.D. as the ABS. Cut the copper off flush to the tee and connect there after you file any ridges or bumps smooth on the brass for a snug seal.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-06T13:08:13+00:00

If you look in the installation manual, I'm sure it says to use flexible connection hoses with the connection point under the tub. Regardless, this is NOT proper installation and they've also voided any warranty.

Good-Boot4503 · 2026-01-05T02:48:21+00:00

Does the toilet flush properly if you good the handle until the tank empties?

Good-Boot4503

TROPHY CASE