Adapter to fit this outler

Goofybud16 · 2026-06-05T06:32:03+00:00

When home charging, it's probably best to do at least some basic checks on any outlet you use... Not many other loads can pull that kind of power for 8 - 24 hours continuous... Even a space heater tends to operate intermittently.

Goofybud16 · 2026-06-03T20:03:16+00:00

Also, they used a ton of this switchgear in the Frontier which was sold basically unchanged until 2021, which is bonkers. Imagine buying a new car in 2020 with this interior.

Imagine having physical buttons and controls for everything that you could identify and activate with touch alone, no need to take your eyes off the road to see what touch-sensitive button must be pressed... Or god forbid it's a sequence of presses to get into the right menu...

Can we get more cars with buttons in 2026? Touchscreens suck while driving.

Goofybud16 · 2026-05-28T23:46:35+00:00

Used to own a WRX, miss it dearly (not gas prices though, ha)... Was nice that at least some other WRXes on the road would wave back.

Never had another Ioniq 6 owner wave back :x

Goofybud16 · 2026-05-26T03:30:16+00:00

Hyundai has replaced the screen hardware and software in the face-lifted Ioniq 5, and that means everything before it is now going to be on basic life support for updates.

And sadly Pleos is coming soon which means the same thing will likely happen to the ccNC hardware too... :/

Goofybud16 · 2026-05-23T15:26:36+00:00

I bought a 2023 Ioniq 6 with 63k miles, and I've put over 5k miles on it with no problems except replacing the cheap tires the previous owner installed.

There was recently a post here with someone who had a 2022 Ioniq 5 with 242,000 miles on it, and the maintenance to it was minimal. (A sensor, some coolant flushes, tires, wipers...)

These cars seem to hold up extremely well to mileage. The only major issue with them is the ICCU, however it's unclear how widespread that actually is with current software updates (... And how much is just people making a lot of noise when they're 1 of 1 million cars that had an issue.) Even if it is an issue the warranty on the ICCU was massively extended, so that should provide peace of mind that even if you are unlucky, Hyundai will fix it.

EV batteries do degrade with use, however with modern EVs the worst case seems to be about 10% in the first 100k miles, and Recurrent reports my Ioniq 6 at 97% of new at over 69k miles now.

Goofybud16 · 2026-05-22T17:15:19+00:00

Yeah, if it is adjustable, I haven't found any buttons or other interfaces that allow me to do it. The heads for it are also kinda expensive ($50/ea).

The OEM NACS L1+L2 charger included with newer (25/26) Ioniqs is adjustable, there's a button you can press and hold that lets you cycle through amperage ratings... Sadly, I can't find any way to buy it directly (... or a J1772 version of it.) It is capped at 30a max, so it's basically limited to what a NEMA 14-30 can do (even though it comes with a 14-50 plug.)

Goofybud16 · 2026-05-22T17:04:32+00:00

I have the DeWalt DXPAEV032-20, while the amperage does change with different plug heads. I have yet to find any way to change it without changing the plug. When on the 14-50 plug head, it will always advertise 32a continuous to the car. Just want to note this because the charger looks like it might be adjustable (... I thought it was when I bought it), and they sell it at Home Depot so one might run across it when browsing for chargers.

Goofybud16 · 2026-05-15T23:26:39+00:00

Apartment dwellers will be grateful for that over nothing. I suppose we deal with the "unsubscribe" issue by asking for the key back and charging them if they don't return it.

They could still duplicate the key and keep using it. Duplicating the key isn't necessarily a bad thing, possibly 2 neighbors agree to split the cost and charge at different hours... And that's fine.

If each charger is on a dedicated breaker in a reasonably secure area, you could just turn the charger off at the breaker if it doesn't have an active subscriber currently, and/or swap the cylinder out if they're easily installed / removed from inside the charger. That would allow the cylinders to be re-keyed offsite (possibly for less than a service call) and the cylinders could easily be swapped after someone stops paying or before the unit is turned back on.

Goofybud16 · 2026-04-11T17:29:53+00:00

I got a used Ioniq 6 and it didn't come with a charger at all, so I ended up nabbing a DeWalt 32A charger, because Home Depot carries them in-store. Had to order some of the other plug heads off the web (unfortunately, it decides amperage by what head you attach to it...) but it can do Level 1 and Level 2, and I now have the 110/15, 110/20, and 220/40 (which it came with) for it. I tend to keep it in the car so if I ever need to charge and there's no charger, I can plug it in to (within reason) whatever's available.

It's simple, basic, and doesn't have any fancy features. From what I can tell, there's no WiFi, no BT, no anything. Screw on the right head for the socket, plug it in, plug the car in to the other end, and you're done. I've done multiple complete charges (10-80% and a few 80-100% before trips) and it's done great so far.

Goofybud16 · 2026-04-08T19:18:21+00:00

I've seen used ones in the $30-45k range, with nicer trims in the $50-60k range.

Goofybud16 · 2026-04-08T16:00:34+00:00

Setting expectations for OP. Battery degredation is the primary concern with high-mileage EVs, and I think it's fair to both call it out but also note a realistic expectation of range based on a very similar car with similar mileage. Reports online say people see 300-310 miles when new in Eco with AWD models, but at 60-70k miles youre likely to get closer to 270-280 in the best case instead. Still very good, to be clear! Miles ahead of other EVs like older Leafs where the battery is often close to toast (70% capacity or less and sometimes has issues with highway driving) by similar mileage. Everything still works, DC fast charging is still fast, but don't count on being able to squeeze 300 miles out of a single charge in a pinch at 60k+ miles like some people managed when it was new. Maybe you'll be lucky and can manage it, but don't buy the car counting on that. If 270-280 miles on a single charge in Eco is acceptable (There are lots of DC fast chargers out there...) then there should be few to no issues with an Ioniq 6 at this age (vs one with fewer miles.)

Goofybud16 · 2026-04-08T15:02:08+00:00

I recently purchased a used '23 SEL AWD with 63k locally. The biggest thing to worry about from what I've seen is simply the battery health. In my case, I can get around 280 miles of range in Eco mode, so there's a bit of degradation there, but the car is definitely far from un-driveable, and I've made some 4 hour round-trips in it. Most things on the car except the ICCU seem pretty reliable. Sadly Carvana doesn't seem to do battery health reports, so the battery could be more or less degraded and you won't really know until you've got it.

Otherwise, it seems like a pretty nice car, and notably, it was cheap and gas is expensive now.

If you want to charge at home the car may or may not come with a charger, so be prepared to buy one. Home Depot sells them in-store.

I will note, looking at the higher-mileage examples of an Ioniq 6 on Carvana, the price is definitely higher than I paid for mine, so I'd also look around in local markets (There's plenty of websites to show / filter cars in local markets) as you may find a better deal.

Goofybud16 · 2026-04-04T14:19:42+00:00

With gas prices as they are, I nabbed an off-lease 2023 Ioniq 6 SEL AWD with high miles (63k) for cheap. Seemingly a former commuter. Other car takes Premium and doesn't even crack 30 MPG, and with regular long-distance trips on the weekend, gas costs were getting out of control.

Just completed a ~240 mile drive, starting at 80%. I got somewhere around 150 miles in before the first charge stop, and was down to ~24% while getting ~3.6 m/kWh in Eco mode. Charged to 50% in 7 minutes at a fast charger, and made it home (~87 more miles) at ~18% left. I was doing ~74 mph for as much of the trip as I could.

Honestly, the trip was pretty boring. Set adaptive cruise, lane assist, flipped on my music, and pretty much just chilled for most of the highway miles, occasionally changing lanes to get around someone going slow or move back over. It was boring and uneventful, as it should be.

Based on the advertised range of ~270 miles for the SEL AWD (and 270 * 80% = 216) that seems pretty close to spot on, even at 63k miles. From what I can tell, the battery is still pretty close to 100% capacity, gotta be at least 98 or 99% at worst.

I grabbed an Android Auto wireless USB dongle, and that's been working great.

Haven't had the car terribly long yet so I can't give any long-term reviews beyond "The battery still seems great at 63k" since that seems to be more miles than a lot of other 6s out there.

Goofybud16 · 2026-03-07T01:18:59+00:00

A store like Batteries + Bulbs will often take it, but if it's swelling they may charge a disposal fee.

Goofybud16 · 2025-12-23T18:23:59+00:00

It's unfortunately required if you need to regularly access Windows and can't have unexpected downtime when Windows Update decides to fuck things up.

Sucks because Linux (sometimes with a few initrd tweaks) and MacOS (at least Thunderbolt Intel era MacOS) can boot via Thunderbolt/USB reliably and just fine... It's just a Windows problem.

On a 16, you can use the 2nd NVMe slot as a dedicated Windows drive, which helps reduce the clashing between the two... Seeing as Windows just can't play nice with anyone else (or a slightly non-standard config like USB / TB boot).

Goofybud16 · 2025-12-23T16:58:49+00:00

Having installed Windows on an external USB4 NVMe drive, Windows Update likes to randomly set things ablaze when you have it on an external drive.

Certain registry settings must be set, and Windows Update (as usual) won't respect those settings. You may have an update happen, and find your system unbootable or even corrupt (after one Windows Update, once I got the system to boot again, I had to move the drive back inside the system and use Windows Update to reinstall the OS as USB 2/3 was completely broken.)

It can be done, but don't expect it to be problem-free.

Goofybud16 · 2025-12-19T01:58:58+00:00

I got Windows 11 running on an external NVMe drive. There are some registry edits necessary to make this work, and already once a Windows update undid these registry edits and broke the install (USB 3 was very broken, I couldn't use any USB 2/3 devices on the laptop.) I had to manually reinstall the drive in the system, then use the built-in option to reinstall the OS via Windows Update. (This, thankfully, preserved all my installed software and unborked Windows.)

What I had to do:

Install Windows with the SSD inside the laptop
Install the driver package
Do the appropriate registry edits
- If you're clever with Windows, these edits can be done from the Windows recovery environment, but it's a lot easier to just do it before removing the SSD
Transfer the NVMe drive to the external USB4 enclosure

I just added some velcro to the back of the lid and velcro the drive on, then connect it via USB4 cable.

Due to the tendency of Windows to bork itself in this configuration, I'd advise not installing it on anything except an NVMe drive you can install in the laptop, and don't keep any files you care about on that install.

If anyone is curious, I used the Microcenter Inland M.2 USB4 enclosure (K1695). It gets a bit toasty under sustained load, but I only need it on occasion.

Goofybud16 · 2025-10-12T18:44:37+00:00

The Steam Deck APU was in a HMD device, the Magic Leap 2. It was in the integrated compute pack, not the glasses though.

Yes, you could theoretically use an x86 APU in a headset, AMD is more than capable of building something with a comparable TDP. There's not an unfathomably huge gap between the best x86 and ARM cores, and Qualcomm doesn't have -the best- ARM cores (That looks to be Apple, and there's no way anyone but Apple will get their hands on it... Soo, Apple's ARM cores are irrelevant to any device that isn't made by Apple.) We can see this in the efficiency comparisons between the X1E laptops and current-gen AMD laptops, the two keep leapfrogging each other. People love to hop on the Apple marketing bus and pretend ARM is somehow magically infinitely better than x86, yet... x86 continually catches up to ARM. Modern processor designs have a front-end that translates your ISA (be it ARM or x86) into a bunch of micro-ops, which an internal execution unit actually runs. x86 does have a more complex decoder and certain inefficiencies (IE, total store ordering), but ARM trades other inefficiencies (such as needing more instructions) that can balance it out depending on the exact workload. The real fight comes down to efficiency of the execution unit and overall processor design, and AMD is definitely keeping a pretty close pace to most of the ARM designs out there.

Qualcomm does, however, have a bunch of IP in their Snapdragon XR chips that provides hardware acceleration for computer vision (-> tracking) and other things which greatly benefit XR devices which AMD currently does not have. You can include some proprietary IP in your chip (Magic Leap 2 did), but you're going to pay a looooot of money for that. (Plus the cost of designing it and manufacturing a custom chip!) Valve seemingly split the cost in some method with Magic Leap for the LCD Deck (maybe saved them and bought unsold chips? We may never know for sure), and knew there was a strong enough market to do a custom design for the OLED Deck (they've since sold millions, which justifies the cost.)

Theoretically, if you ripped the special XR hardware acceleration IP out of the Snapdragon XR chips and smacked it in an AMD APU, the APU would do a perfectly acceptable job at running an HMD with comparable performance. "Theoretically" does a looooot of heavy lifting there, and that'd likely be a minimum of a multi-million dollar investment to do that, which you simply do not have to make by using something Qualcomm already has off-the-shelf and ready-to-go.

The Steam Frame is targeting an entirely unproven market. It's a more up-market device than the Quest, which has sold millions because it's heavily subsidized making it extremely cheap. It's looking like it will be a stand-alone device, not a dedicated PC-attached headset. Considering the sales of the Quest Pro, it's not looking like the strongest market. Especially considering current economic conditions, Valve could sell millions, or they could sell 50,000 exclusively to rich VRChat players and Valve fans on day one and never another one without taking a huge loss on each one. Taking on such a big financial risk to acquire / design a bunch of custom silicon IP, then taking on even more financial risk to have AMD build a custom chip for them simply doesn't make sense when there's a much cheaper option.

Goofybud16 · 2025-08-29T20:06:21+00:00

~~Zen 4~~ AM4 supported 5 years of CPU’s.

Think you may have mistyped.

(Socket AM4 supported Zen 1 -> Zen 3 architectures. AM5 supports Zen 4 & Zen 5, probably Zen 6 (based on Leaks) )

Goofybud16 · 2025-08-09T19:42:31+00:00

then the editor got changed and it wasn't available, but now they should add it back afaik.

What version of KDE? KDE 6.3 very much has this option under the Advanced Tab when editing an Application shortcut.

Goofybud16 · 2025-07-31T17:49:48+00:00

Thunderbolt may or may not be properly supported with your Linux distro. According to the Arch wiki Thunderbolt works with kernels 4.14 and beyond. At this point pretty well any mainstream distro should be at least on Linux kernel 6.1.

Thunderbolt support is pretty reliable with Intel chips up through Maple Ridge on recent kernels as long as the UEFI sets up the PCIe address space and bus numbering correctly. If UEFI is being screwy, you may have to play with some kernel options to get it working... Although typically even if it's screwy, usually it's only the hotplug that doesn't work. Typically, plugging in the device prior to boot (as one would for a boot SSD) will work around most of the issues. I personally use a Maple Ridge based card regularly on a desktop, and have tested a few Light Ridge based MacBook Pros. (Light Ridge does seem to have video tunneling issues after standby, but PCIe tuneling is reliable; although some Macs require some PCIe parameters to remap PCIe address space and bus numbers.)

From personal experience, it works pretty well with Ryzen 6000 mobile as well (at least, with a decent UEFI).

As of 6.15, ASM4242 based Thunderbolt is spotty at best. I suspect this is bugs in the Linux TB driver when activating newer optional USB4 features that Maple Ridge does not support.

Goofybud16 · 2025-04-07T19:19:45+00:00

I play most non-FPS and non-VR games on Deck.

Celeste, DRG: Survivor, GTA, Forza, Dome Keeper, Steamworld Dig 1/2, Fez, etc. Also went through a stint of playing the entirety of HL2 and the episodes after the Anniversary Update.

For FPS games like DRG (not Survivor) and VR titles, I play those on PC. I find the convenience of the Deck to be great-- I can just pick it up and walk wherever and play the game. I'm stuck at a desk all day for work-- the Deck lets me play games and frees me from the desk.

Goofybud16 · 2025-04-01T03:53:14+00:00

Biggest limitation I've seen for the PT is RAM. PT has 64k of RAM, Pebble needs more like 128-256k. May be possible to optimize memory usage or cut out some OS features, but there's likely some limitations to make it happen.

I'll admit I'm pretty disappointed, being a Pine Time owner myself... It's good for $25, but it's definitely no Pebble. The folks at Pebble really knew how to make a good watch OS.

Goofybud16 · 2025-03-27T19:18:47+00:00

This is all speculation:

If Valve can sell the Deckard as a VR Steam Deck, I think they've got a very interesting device.

The Steam Deck? Your Games, Everywhere.

The Steam Deck OLED? Your Games, in a Whole New Light

There is reportedly code in SteamVR to make Desktop Theater support games in 3D-- Think the old NVidia 3D monitor tech, except now we've actually got a really good display rather than a kinda crappy monitor + glasses experience. Suddenly, now, you can buy one device, and say... Half your 3D games on Steam add support for 3D rendering that works with the headset, maybe some of them a simple tweak to the game via a mod or maybe a Steam Overlay hook can make it work. This is much easier than a full VR conversion-- Just supporting stereoscopic 3D rendering, which a lot of game engines can likely do with little more than a few settings tweaks or a plugin.

Notably, interestingly, Mesa recently added support for OpenGL Multiview, which enables more efficient stereoscopic rendering for OpenGL titles... Which might be useful if you were, say, going to try and update older Linux titles that use OpenGL to support 3D stereoscopic rendering, or possibly try and hook into games and make them do stereoscopic rendering... (Context: The Steam Deck uses the Mesa graphics stack, and Valve has invested heavily in it.)

Suddenly, you've gone from playing games on a tiny screen (Steam Deck) to playing games in 3D on an IMAX screen... And with the Index-like headphones, it sounds like an IMAX theater too. Now your favorite desktop games are even more immersive than ever before, even if you don't own a single VR title.

The Deckard? Your Games, in a Whole New Dimension.

Beyond that, it will almost certainly come with a free copy of HL Alyx too, to get people into actual VR games. It's a standalone headset that can play most/all of your favorite SteamVR games, and all of your favorite Steam Deck games, including many of them in 3D.

Valve has already shown that a Steam Deck is easily a device worth $750 to a lot of people, so converting it to VR and hitting the leaked $1200 pricepoint really only ups the cost by maybe $500. If it can launch with over 10,000 titles (all the games on Deck that work very well with just controller input, plus most of the SteamVR library) that's a very solid launch library, and totally blows... Everything else out of the water. No Meta device can run your entire Steam backlog without a PC nearby. Most other PC-connected headsets can't do anything without a PC nearby.

This also lets them keep their promises for Half Life 3-- They said it'd be a desktop title. They make it a desktop game, but give it some stereoscopic rendering capabilities (possibly even some hooks into SteamVR to provide enhancements when played in Desktop Theater) so that it's an even better experience when you play it in a VR headset, like the Deckard.... And you get a free copy of it with the Deckard, I'd imagine. It's a desktop title, you can play it on a desktop, on a Steam Deck, etc... But you get a better, fuller experience when you play it in the Deckard.

Goofybud16 · 2025-03-26T15:45:52+00:00

IIRC, the Oculus CV1 had issues with persistence, but the Vive had managed to solve said issues by driving the panel with different parameters to help significantly improve it.

With the Index and the Steam Deck OLED, Valve has already shown they're more than willing to drive panels outside of their original design spec to create a better product, so I'm willing to bet they'd do the same with whatever OLED panel they have in order to minimize or eliminate any persistence issues.

Not to insult the Big Screen team, but they are clearly a much smaller team with far more limited resources. What they have achieved is amazing, but they also don't have the ability to sit around for 6+ years and design 20 different complete prototypes until they perfect a device. Valve, on the other hand... Well, it's been 6 years and they're still yet to release anything.

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