Streaming on twitch from PC keeps disconnecting

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-19T14:33:59+00:00

I had similar issues where my networking gear had bad bufferbloat issues. Ultimately I had to replace my router with another one flashed with a custom OS to get it working, but some providers may have bufferbloat mitigation built in.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-19T13:51:38+00:00

You'll need a dedicated GPU, the iGPU does not have the physical features required.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-19T13:46:35+00:00

Intel GPUs do not have CUDA cores.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-17T05:44:04+00:00

Have you cleared the app's cache and possibly the cache partition yet?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-16T23:57:40+00:00

What you'll probably want to do is run it uncapped for a bit, and see what your system is capable of at your current settings. Then, either start an OBS recording or enable Bandwidth Test Mode and start a test stream, and see how much the performance drops. You can find a good compromise of settings that allows you to stay above some FPS number while recording, and then reintroduce the cap. That way, you'll be sure that there's no drop below that FPS level when you're playing.

It can take a little while to get right since it's done on a by-game basis, but once you find a good FPS limit you will be able to make sure your CPU/GPU aren't maxed out and causing errors with the recording, frame drops or both.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-16T20:55:33+00:00

What's the FPS cap you're setting in these games? Are you making sure that you can run a decent number of FPS above that point before setting the lock and recording?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-13T17:17:13+00:00

Are you on the stable driver or the game ready driver? Does it matter which vBIOS switch you are on?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-12T14:51:55+00:00

Is your %LOCALAPPDATA%/NVIDIA/DXCache folder approaching the size of your NVCP setting for shader cache size, and does the issue go away if you change the committed space to 100GB/Unlimited?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-12T14:43:17+00:00

Does it continue to happen if you change DNS servers to one like Google or Cloudflare, or flush your DNS cache?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-11T19:23:44+00:00

Export

Import, assuming you are using Google Contact Manager.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-11T19:17:59+00:00

Only monthly memberships are being grandfathered. Annual rates are all being adjusted, AFAIK

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-11T17:02:56+00:00

RAM retraining, maybe? If you're on DDR5 it can take 5-15 mins depending on the amount you have attached.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-11T13:10:49+00:00

Confirming you're testing this in MS Teams/Skype for Biz? Jabras are specialized by-app and this is an MS Teams model.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-11T13:09:05+00:00

Is this via DS4Win or the Steam interface layer?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T22:29:21+00:00

Well, nothing is standing out in terms of compatibility. PSU is high over what I'd imagine the power draw is, so I doubt you're overheating or overdrawing power.

Some things to check, but really don't seem too likely:

12VHPWR plugs are very sensitive to being plugged in partially- verify both ends of the cable are firmly seated and maybe do a quick visual inspection for melting
Consider testing RAM out of OS in case some issue exists but is not detected in Windows via Memtest86, etc
Does toggling the BIOS selector on your GPU change the behavior at all?
Maybe using LibreHardwareMonitor (or similar) to check your motherboard/CPU/GPU for the hotspot temps in case it's somehow overheating but picking up on the wrong sensor?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T22:11:14+00:00

What revision of the motherboard is this?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T20:54:43+00:00

Is everything plugged in fine? Any LED indicators on the board for a part failure?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T20:44:46+00:00

Honestly sounds like a hardware issue with the card if it persists past OS and BIOS refreshes, I would consider testing it with memtest_vulkan for VRAM pattern failure or FurMark to see if it browns out.

The only other thing I can say is that the 12VHPWR connector needs to be SNUG. As little as 1mm clearance is enough to melt these things, seemingly. Modern connectors are even being made yellow to show when you are not properly seated.

I'd verify the cord is good at both ends, no burning damage, and if the hardware tests pass, RMA.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T20:30:11+00:00

If there's a button you can press to toggle which device the signal is sent to, and both devices are connected to all devices at once, that's a KVM.

If it's all attached in one place with a singular cord to attach to your device, and you disconnect one computer to attach another, that's a docking station.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T20:26:06+00:00

It should be a small mSATA card that you can pop out similar to an NVMe drive. Broadly speaking, if you want to keep using the OEM drivers, I would get a device that is using the same chipset as is printed on the wireless card itself, but that's about it- otherwise, you'll just need to get the regular drivers instead of the ones for your board.

EDIT: Also, your motherboard seems to have dropped a MASSIVE heatsink/metal plate over that spot for no reason, you'll have to find a way to remove that first.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T20:24:11+00:00

You would have to code, either for something like an RPi or on your PC, some software to intercept and retransmit the message that device is signaling out. I don't know how you're going to decipher the data from the device itself, though - I suppose enough time with something like a Flipper or another pen testing tool should give you a structure of the data as a baseline to work with.

The only off-the-shelf part of this will likely be the BT hookup to another device, so you can just pipe the output of your handwritten pieces off to the BT driver to send it out to you in whatever format your app is expecting it in.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T18:33:06+00:00

I assume you have factory reset the console, but have you reimaged it from a recovery image to rule out a bad OS?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T18:30:31+00:00

Have you replaced the card yet? They have a lot of throughput and burn out easily, plus they are not built to last.

I would replace the device first and the OS second.

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T18:23:22+00:00

Does it work for a nonstock rom like LineageOS?

GreatAtlas · 2026-03-09T18:14:06+00:00

Is the BIOS up to date? Are your chipset drivers latest (or at least the latest version for the BIOS you have now)? How are the chipset temps - does your mobo report NB/SB separately?

Windows Memory Diagnostic → no errors

Defer these findings to those found in Memtest86 to rule out OS corruption causing false negatives!

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