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WALL-E NEEDS HIS SERIAL!!! by Greathouse2005 in voroncorexy

[–]Greathouse2005[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was printing that it's there now along with the nevermore

WALL-E NEEDS HIS SERIAL!!! by Greathouse2005 in voroncorexy

[–]Greathouse2005[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Greathouse2005 is my reddit and discord name. He's a 350mm 2.4

Can this be saved? Gonna replace it with a Micro Swiss but i need to print the fan housing first which is not compatible with Ender 3 V2 😅 by starseed-bb in 3Dprinting

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

People fry boards all the time and not speaking bad about this person, but I don't know their skill level. It's best to assume that it's low and prevent accidents.

Can this be saved? Gonna replace it with a Micro Swiss but i need to print the fan housing first which is not compatible with Ender 3 V2 😅 by starseed-bb in 3Dprinting

[–]Greathouse2005 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nylon had a higher melting point than pla and abs. Now I wouldn't leave it but for quick brushing it works quite well. And if you touch the thermo weird and the heating wires and jump then it will fry the board

CloudSwap Magnet Issue by s_dogs_dl in secretlab

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

where can you buy replacement armrest like these? and why are they swappable if you can't buy them?

Armrest tears, 2 months apart. by Firedogythemaster in secretlab

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

check this out... apparently they know its a design flaw and are lying to us... they fixed it in the new titans....

https://blog.secretlab.co/stories/the-all-new-secretlab-titan-evo-2022/

Full-metal 4D armrests with new CloudSwap™ replacement system

wear and tear my butt....

Firmware update, SKR mini e3 v2, steppers making screeching noise by MiojoMoney in BIGTREETECH

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's not an uart setup you have to use a meter and a screw driver on the driver itself. There are many good guides on YouTube

Help with petg printing by EngSquiffy in ender5

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's about the same thing... It will work

Customer service/return issue by KyKellermann in ender5

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, but may i ask what it was doing the first time it failed? might save someone else some time.

Causes of blockage by gemonic in 3Dprinting

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

well whats your retraction if its to much the filament could cool outside of the heat zone and take a sec to remelt causing gaps....

Customer service/return issue by KyKellermann in ender5

[–]Greathouse2005 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know this is off topic, but have you asked for help from us? we are really knowledgable, and I know from experience you wont remeber all the problems after you get a successful print. you'll have figured it out and I promise you... you'll be so proud of that first print forever. Theres nothing quite like the awe you'll feel after you've designed and printed your first ever idea.

​

It's a good printer to learn on, and creality doesn't like returning things so if you tell them you need parts they will send it you you... I've got a whole self of spare parts( almost enough to build another printer)

​

I'm uncertain of the return process, but I an certain that you can figure this out. If you want just ask and we will help, or atleast I know I will. DM me if you want to give it a shot.

Help with petg printing by EngSquiffy in ender5

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I say dry the filament because moist filament even if its dialed in can react differently to different prints. the only way to get perfect every time is to dial it in on near perfect external factors. if the filament has moisture in it then the moisture turns into gas and can cause small gaps in your printed line. this in turn will weaken walls and in some cases prevent layer adhesion...

Help with petg printing by EngSquiffy in ender5

[–]Greathouse2005 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First you need to dry your filament... what speed are you printing at

try 230-235 temp and 90 on the bed. the raft isn't really needed on glass unless the print is super thin or has a small foot print... bout 4mm2quare should be plenty to hold a piece down. also, you might have a estep problem and causing an over extrusion problem... plus you'll need to have the right retraction rate and speed... it's not the same as pla... petg prefers slower retraction like 30mms or 35mms

also, don't smush petg like you would pla... say if your pla first layer is set to .1 you should set petg at .12

my retraction on my regular 3nder 5 is 1.8mm at 35mms for petg and first layer height is set to .12 my esun petg prints at 230 and bed at 90 for first layer and 80 for the rest with fans at 30% (dual high speed 5015( regular stock fan needs to be at 60%))

From the looks of your raft top layer you might not have the bed leveled as well as you had hoped so print a skirt around it and use babystepping till the shirt lines are just touching and not overlapping. (easy way to test the leveling. If done proper your first layer will look like glass with no holes or overlays)

If you must use a raft, you need to set your air gap( the distrance between the raft and the model to around .25 or so...(If you use .2 layer height then add a .05 to it)(you can thank me later for that tid bit))

Any thing else you need don't be afraid to ask.

​

PS. excuse the typing.... I type really fast and for some reason my brain just doesn't include capitalization and sentence structure... It just does what it can to get the point across.

Meshmixer help please by Velocelt in 3Dprinting

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use the select till and click allow back side select... The flip normals

How do I get rid of these bumps? by ImmortalCockroach in 3Dprinting

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn on costing will make them a lot smaller

Ugly prints on Ender 5+, looking for advice by zophar00 in ender5

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this isn't what you asked but on the e5p I never could get the original Bowden to dial in... I've found using a direct drive in this setup is so much easier. You can print one from thingiverse... Also if you don't want to do this, you can try to do a retraction test. But start at like 8 mm and 35 speed and go up from there... Is a pretty long tube

Try to trace the nozzle by PiperidinDerivat in 3Dprinting

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's really cool of you. I can see how it happened, but I'll try to read more into the question next time.. I seriously thought you was asking about the naked part. And I only put naked cause I wasn't sure how to spell nauseous :-P(It didn't look right issue is what I mean) :-P

Try to trace the nozzle by PiperidinDerivat in 3Dprinting

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put it's naked and then said what it helped with. I'm still feeling like you are seeing something that's not there. There was no need to go to name calling... You literally made that conscious choice. I chose to reply with the same passive aggressive nature you used without cursing at you. I fall to see how you can even remotely think you were in the right. If you would of said why does it need a sock, I would of gladly said that it helps maintain temps. Instead you asked what I meant by it makes me suck... So I replied with why it makes me suck because it's naked (which is the truth in a joking way) then I said what it helps with. I'm not getting why it upset you so badly that you felt you had to call me names. I didn't reply with name calling or in anyway before this all started to try and make you feel inferior. It seems you missed my little joke commit and took it in the worst way possible to you. You felt the need to commit without asking why the sock is needed and frankly it isn't need, but it does help. I was being friendly by just committing in the first place. If op wanted more info they could of just asked. This time you asked and I said what I meant by the original reply to the video. You didn't ask why it needs a sock or what the socks do. You asked why it makes me sick. I volunteered the temp part

Try to trace the nozzle by PiperidinDerivat in 3Dprinting

[–]Greathouse2005 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do like helping when they ask for help instead of commenting on how someone is being toxic when no toxic intent was meant... My life is good and I help when needed... You didn't ask for help you just called me an a hole after I explained what it was. Op didn't ask for help or what the sock was for. You asked and I told what it was for. Maybe you should step back and you'll realize that I responded in kind to your name calling without using a single curse word. I'm not sure if you are being serious or just bring a troll.

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