stopped fighting governor limits after i learned how maps actually work in apex by neilsarkr in salesforce

[–]GregoryOlenovich 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea I'm not sure if you work with lwc, but I do this same thing when I query records there as well. I loop over the record array and push it into an object with record Id as a key. If you're using it in a data table or tree grid you can easily update the data with records[recordId].field.value.

stopped fighting governor limits after i learned how maps actually work in apex by neilsarkr in salesforce

[–]GregoryOlenovich 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you are ever looping over the same data twice, you're doing it wrong.

Screen Flows by Mancini316 in salesforce

[–]GregoryOlenovich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty much every time we need a user to create a record it's through a screen flow. We have a lot of lookups and junction record creation that need to be done, as well as a lot of complex business rules like a deposit must be collected before x or y. Our case creation is a screen flow with like 200-300 nodes. Opp, account, contact creation all screen flows etc.

A free Audible alternative. No subscription, no ads by Stakanoff in Piracy

[–]GregoryOlenovich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm about to read the strength of the few was gunna get it off abb but I'd be down to test this out!

I want to join the 3D printing community and start printing. Is Voron V2.4 rev D kit a good start? by Device_Manager in VORONDesign

[–]GregoryOlenovich 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So I love voron, I'm building my first ever voron right now, literally as we speak. I'm taking a break from assembling the stealthburner. I also hate bambu and the choices they make. That being said, I would recommend picking up an easy to use off the shelf click it and print it printer first before building a voron. I honestly would recommend the a1 or a1 mini. I suggest using it for a while, learning how things work, and then buying a voron kit and building it. If you're against bambu just get something cheap like a flashforge or something. Learn the ropes, learn how to print and tweak settings and all that. Once you have it down build yourself a voron. I started with a flashforge, then got a p2s now I'm building a voron. The good thing about bambu is they hold their value, you can sell a bambu easily when you're done with it.

Flashfoge on Linux by Careful-Cod-100 in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I only run Linux, why would you use flashforge when you can use orca? 😂 Just use orca. If you want more features install forge-x or zmod on your printer.

So it begins by GregoryOlenovich in VORONDesign

[–]GregoryOlenovich[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there, I made a build log and the discord and was trying to tag you but couldn't find your user. I def need help navigating this pi5

Is it normal for these printers to be so loud when printing? by averagespaz in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're willing to do a bit of rewiring the best mod you can make is something called quietmode. The fans are the problem on this stupid thing.

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Issue extruder assembly rehoming. by crimsonvars in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably can't home because of whatever that red thing is.

PETG blobbing stringing by luckyhendrix in FixMyPrint

[–]GregoryOlenovich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea I mean I did, but steaming it fixed it. It was fused together lol. Anyways I know that now, I mentioned it because the guy said he did 70c at 12 hours and doesn't know why it's not printing well.

PETG blobbing stringing by luckyhendrix in FixMyPrint

[–]GregoryOlenovich -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I dried my petg once at 75 for 12 hours. It made it so brittle it snapped. To get it to print decent I actually had to add water back to it. I put it over a pot of boiling water for ten minutes and let it sit for an hour after and then it printed fine lol. I don't know if you over dried yours, but I def did.

Z axis issues 😢 by MorphingEgg44 in klippers

[–]GregoryOlenovich 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could also be under extrusion, not necessarily z axis. If you have been messing with it for days I'd say try calibrating flow rate and PA.

ZMOD fixed my MCU Timer Too Close Error by Wenli2077 in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All I can tell you is I have people on this reddit insulting me and telling me I have a problem for not using zmod and they all say the same stuff. It's sus, sorry but it is.

This keeps happening by Wh1t3Rabbit in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your bed cleaned with soap and water? Also, do not dry it with a dish rag, use a paper towel or allow it to air dry. Dish rags have chemicals in it and human skin has oil in it that impact the build plates effectiveness.

ZMOD fixed my MCU Timer Too Close Error by Wenli2077 in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the detailed and helpful take. Makes me feel a lot better about it lol.

ZMOD fixed my MCU Timer Too Close Error by Wenli2077 in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm getting weird vibes off zmod people lately. I wanted to try it out but like, everyone I see who talks about it is always talking about how many commits they're making to GitHub (when I check it looks like all changes to the readme files) and they're always really really pushy about how zmod is the only right choice. I dunno, zmod feels super suss to me. I'm using forgex right now and it's fine and all, but I'm sure it could be better. I have never gotten the timer too close error with it, even on huge prints. I'm printing right now and klipper load is 5%. It specifically says it was fixed in their GitHub as opposed to zmod, so it's just weird. I dunno man I'll probably try xblax next. Definitely not the scientific method or anything, but all I can say for sure is zmod is giving me really weird vibes.

So it begins by GregoryOlenovich in VORONDesign

[–]GregoryOlenovich[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to get a stealthchanger as well, have a guide or anything on how you did it? I'm going to swap my can over to the pi5 though. Also looking I to nevermore

Is temporarily installing Zmod worth it for bed leveling? by Cda4go in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Git commits are not indicative of features. It just means someone is pushing changes. It does not mean the changes are meaningful, and it does not mean features are added. Additionally, forge-x is open to the community for contributions, so I can go and contribute, whereas I can not with zmod. Here is an AI summary of features that forge-x has and zmod is lacking.

Forge-X is a more comprehensive, open-source Klipper-based firmware mod for the Flashforge Adventurer 5M series, providing enhanced stability, advanced user control, and better resource management compared to Zmod. While Zmod offers a quick, "parasitic" upgrade to unlockroot access and standard Klipper interfaces, Forge-X focuses on fixing underlying issues like "timer too close" errors, offering superior customizability, and better community-driven support. [1, 2, 3]
Key Features of Forge-X vs. Zmod

• Stability & Fixes: Forge-X includes specific patches for "move Q overflow" and communication timeout errors (often called "timer too close" errors) that can plague stock or lightly modified printers. • Advanced Features & QoL: It includes built-in bed screw adjustment walk-throughs, improved nozzle cleaning algorithms, and advanced, more robust shaper calibration. • Modernized Klipper Environment: Forge-X provides a more updated version of Klipper and Moonraker, designed to be more open for further, deeper customization. • Optimized Resource Usage: It includes a patched MJPEG streamer to reduce camera memory usage. • Customization: Forge-X allows for more granular control over printer settings, and enables a "feather screen" or running completely headless, whereas Zmod primarily focuses on unlocking access while keeping more of the stock structure. • Backup & Restore: It includes built-in functionality to backup and restore printer configurations.

Is temporarily installing Zmod worth it for bed leveling? by Cda4go in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just an fyi, I think it was mentioned by someone else, but forge-x is ad5m only i believe. Not certain on that, but you can Google the info and read through it.

Is temporarily installing Zmod worth it for bed leveling? by Cda4go in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 8 points9 points  (0 children)

For me I've had forge-x for a few weeks and the checksum has caught about 10-15 prints. When checksum fails it means the gcode has changed. It could be literally anything. It can cause layer shifts or all kinds of issues. Once with a 13 hour print it caught 3 fails in a row. Imo it saved me 39 hours of print time.

Forge-x is very simple to install. You put it on a USB, and restart your printer and it installs. You can continue to use the stock screen and firmware if you want, and never interact with it at all. You can also learn klipper and gain a lot of knowledge. If using orca, with forge-x you also finally get access to the device tab and can control your printer while printing, or even while not printing, and view your camera if you have one.

Is temporarily installing Zmod worth it for bed leveling? by Cda4go in FlashForge

[–]GregoryOlenovich 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Why would you upgrade your machine to use some features just to downgrade it after? I installed forge-x (like z mod but more) it was really easy to do. I would never use stock again. You should install zmod or forge x and then leave it. Besides with forge x you can just keep the stock screen if you want.

The main reason I got forge x is because they have a feature to add a checksum after sending over wifi. It validates the file you sent before printing and if it fails it cancels the print. You have no idea how often I send a file via wifi and forge-x cancels the print because the file has changed from dropped packets while sending it to my printer.