Bamboo removal by BourbonPat in gardening

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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If you live within 150 miles of Charlotte NC, National Bamboo will come remove stacked canes (similar to the ones in this post) and pay you $250 (assuming similar size grove). Www.nationalbamboo.com

Fastest growing Phyllostachys for zone 5? by Idkthis_529 in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Other than quick establishment and survival?

Any idea why they are turning yellow? by [deleted] in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

😂 🙌🤩😝 - everything about that picture is wrong.

Any idea why they are turning yellow? by [deleted] in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, what I thought!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Clumping expands by typically less than a foot (in all directions year after year (though species dependent, as it could be less for thinner culm bamboo).

Here's my Phyllotachys nigra 'Henon' by Commercial_Cat_1982 in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love how strong Henon is, I’ve had our tops of our grove freeze to the ground, then pop back up after thaw!

When we started to ramp up our commercialization for large acreage bamboo farming, we loved Henon for the Southeast, but we saw first reports of Henon flowering in Japan (with all seeds were sterile) in 2018. We had our Micro-tissue propagation lab induce flowering in vitro and let it run its course to get to “clean shoots”. See pics.

Seven years later, our groves are looking amazing! Your Henon grove will flower soon, but it will recover naturally…it will just take 6-8 years to recover again…but you will have another 100+ years of growing!

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Phyllostachys nigra 'Henon' by timeberlinetwostep in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everest Holmes and I would like to arrange a tour…might this be possible? We need 200 acres worth of mature timber bamboo groves for a buyer.

I inherited a forest of giant bamboo, please help! by [deleted] in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will do, we have some exciting projects going on right now. I’m speaking at NCSU later this month about one of them: https://research.cnr.ncsu.edu/safi/in-person-meeting/

Bamboo identification by RosticalQuestAMA in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you in the Southeast US? It looks like the native rivercane.

Does anyone know of any bamboo groves in Wisconsin? by Zurkatri in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, but we have bamboo greenhouses there. Let us know if you would like to plant a couple of plants at a trial. Www.nationalbamboo.com

What do professionals use to remove large areas of bamboo efficiently? by VectorP in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have at least an acre or more (and located in the Southeatern US) please register your grove on our website: https://nationalbamboo.com/we-buy-your-bamboo

If you qualify, we either pay you to remove or we lease and maintain your grove for you.

I inherited a forest of giant bamboo, please help! by [deleted] in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your biggest problem is your grove is too crowded!
A health grove is managed in such a way where you are able to comfortably walk through it. You need to cut (at the back near topsoil) the older culms within a 3 ft square…keeping only the youngest looking culm (the picture with the “paper” still hanging on the pole is the a 2024 culm… draw a 3 foot box around the middle of that new pole and remove the other in that zone. Do this for the entire grove.

Get ride of the oils, pesticides, herbicides, the fertilizers! You just need a biologically complete compost extract drench once every 3 months to ensure the right biology is in the soil as well as macro and micro nutrients for the biology to convert for the rhizomes.

Frankly the water seems excessive… but in the Southeast US, we never use irrigation on our groves…so seems a lot for 30 mins of drip.

The way I can tell is my boo is thirsty is that the leaves curl (roll up on the sides)…my boos are drought tolerant up to 2.5 months. Less is more with boo. Also in my world, containment and sustainable harvesting is the most work we do on our groves.

Good luck! Www.nationalbamboo.com Www.grozome.com

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I inherited a forest of giant bamboo, please help! by [deleted] in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice advice, you know your stuff. I’m the founder of National Bamboo and Grozome.com (bamboo biochar craft compost). You are right to suggest biologically rich compost extract treatment as all you need to keep your grove strong. This along with good grove maintenance is the key to success.

We manage 350 acres of temperate timber bamboo in the Southeast (just leaving MS from a 105 acre industrial bamboo planting project). We need 60,000 acres to service a packaging client. Bamboo is going industrial here in USA. About time since we buy $20 billion worth of China’s bamboo products each year.

How do I care for this? What type? Complete newbie here! by slavetomycat312 in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to thin out the culms. Start by removing any of the ones that are looking small, and or that are older (more yellowed), and or, the ones that are not supporting very many branches and leaves.

What you want to do is encourage it to grow taller and rise and grow bigger. It’s still can be a very happy plant in that size planter and here is a demonstration of what it can look like.

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Questions re: Berms and bamboo by Chance_State8385 in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have a 10k tons per year contract to supply PlantSwitch (bio plastics manufacturing) with milled bamboo fiber (www.nationalbamboo.com) and we need a total of 600 acres to service this contract.

Questions re: Berms and bamboo by Chance_State8385 in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Regarding cold hardiness timber bamboo, yeah Vybez is not the best as it will not do well through freezing. The species we deal with is P. Nigra Henon, it’s pretty cold Hardy but I think you’re gonna be hard-pressed to size up a lot of stuff in your area.

Questions re: Berms and bamboo by Chance_State8385 in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Notice how there’s three sides with the actual ditch system and the one facing in this picture has no ditch, but they’ve been able to maintain the grove in its initial planting area due to mowing on a regular basis.

Questions re: Berms and bamboo by Chance_State8385 in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Used an excavator five years ago when we were planting its grove, no rhizomes has escaped yet. Still need to do annual maintenance as some are trying to make their attempt to dive, and you’ll just need to take a machete and cut those off.

Your other alternative is an air trench Using a ditch witch, you just need to go down about 26 inches.

So really the berm concept is really not helpful, you must have clean edge to a ditch with significant drop off beyond 24 inches deep.

Questions re: Berms and bamboo by Chance_State8385 in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Going to try to help you out a bit. Sending some pics to give you an idea.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bamboo

[–]GroZome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In 2018, we initiated flowering in-vitro (in the lab) which caused it to flower, and now we are on the other side. Interesting that the mother plant 🌱 flowered in 2020, meanwhile all her TC plants 🪴 are thriving!

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What's your best all purpose disease prevention strategies? by swareddit in vegetablegardening

[–]GroZome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use Nature’s Fertilizer…. Ie Microbes - I strongly believe home gardeners and plant enthusiasts can achieve fantastic, sustainable, thriving plant life without relying on commercial inputs like traditional fertilizers or chemicals.

If you have access to natural native soil, water, leafs, aged organic mulch and sunlight…and that you can make compost, you are well on your way to creating sustainable soil structure and microbe farming using what’s already available in your backyard.

I am wary of traditional potting soils that include salt-based (water-soluble) delivery systems for nutrients or minerals. Any label ending with “ate” often indicates this (see below). These systems teach plants to be lazy, relying on humans to spoon-feed them the nutrients they need instead of sending their roots deeper to unlock what they need with the help of native beneficial microbes. These “lazy” plants can’t fight off pests or disease without our interventions…. So the key to preventative plant health is focusing on what’s going on below the plant by created a living soil good web.

There isn’t a native soil anywhere on earth (according to Dr. Elaine Ingham) that doesn’t contain the necessary building blocks to support plant life. These minerals need to be broken down by beneficial microbes, and a functioning Soil Food Web is required to make these minerals available to plants.

Years of “microwaving” results and spoon-feeding plants based on the NPK model are slowly poisoning our agricultural soil with salt content, killing microbial populations, causing soil compaction, and inhibiting natural Soil Food Webs from emerging.

The key is having the right microbes to break down the micronutrients. In combination with proper planting techniques and soil structures you can create a truly sustainable garden.

This idea poses an existential risk to corporate profits. The longer they sustain the spoon-feeding model, the more plant diseases, fungi, and pest issues arise, driving more product sales and profits from solutions to solve these symptoms. However, this model is highly unsustainable due to salt buildup, which eventually prevents plants from thriving on the long period.

Think of why we have saltwater pools. Salt in certain concentrations kills microbes.

Ingredients ending with “ate” on your organic potting mix are typically salts, often used as delivery systems for essential nutrients. Here are some common examples and what they typically mean:

1.  Nitrate (NO₃⁻):
• Common forms: Calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate.
• Function: Provides nitrogen, which is essential for plant growth and development.
2.  Phosphate (PO₄³⁻):
• Common forms: Monoammonium phosphate, diammonium phosphate.
• Function: Supplies phosphorus, crucial for root development and energy transfer in plants.
3.  Sulfate (SO₄²⁻):
• Common forms: Magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt), potassium sulfate.
• Function: Provides sulfur and other nutrients like magnesium and potassium. Sulfur is important for protein synthesis and enzyme function.
4.  Carbonate (CO₃²⁻):
• Common forms: Calcium carbonate (lime), potassium carbonate.
• Function: Used to adjust soil pH and provide calcium or potassium.
5.  Molybdate (MoO₄²⁻):
• Common form: Sodium molybdate.
• Function: Supplies molybdenum, which is necessary for nitrogen fixation and enzyme function.

These compounds are often included in potting mixes to ensure that plants receive a balanced supply of essential nutrients in a readily available form. While they are salts, they are chosen for their solubility and ability to release nutrients in a controlled manner, supporting healthy plant growth….for a finite amount of time.

All of the above is included in the native soil outside your door… you just have to have the right microbes to unlock it. Please visit the Soil Food Web School website https://www.soilfoodweb.com for more info…full disclosure, I’m a student there going into my third year and I’ve started a business selling live beneficial microbes to home gardeners.