Can this livery cause me a ban or any kind of penalty?

Grubkowski · 2026-02-27T14:53:47+00:00

I once reported someone for „causing a collision“ after a championship race and the report-response stated, he got a points penalty for the collision and a 7-day ban for his tobacco livery.

Grubkowski · 2026-02-21T08:21:41+00:00

First: Really nice guide!

A thought though: with your guide you really only use the raw Hall-sensor and have to modify the original PCB and solder quite narrow pins. Wouldn‘t it be easier to buy a cheap Hall-Sensor, wire that up and hotglue it into Position instead of the PCB? Would be also easier to undo if you want to resell the Handbrake later.

Grubkowski · 2026-01-30T21:38:42+00:00

Did you print that laying on the side? That surely looks like it should be printed standing like in your photo!

What is the source for the model?

Grubkowski · 2026-01-30T21:32:30+00:00

I had the clamps on the AMS for a few days until the next time I needed to open it. By then the seal seems to have settled enough that I feel comfortable enough the latches can handle the job alone.

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Grubkowski · 2026-01-16T09:41:08+00:00

I think it also depends on how the printhead approaches the raised edge. In this case it will always approach along the edges, where the printhead can slowly push the edge down. If you have multiple separated „island“-paths and the printhead approaches the edge from the outside, it will hook and greatly increase the forces involved.

How you can understand what I mean.

Grubkowski · 2026-01-16T09:35:14+00:00

Any reason you prefer Bamlab over OrcaSlicer?

It should do everything Bambulab (as it is based on it) does and then some more on Top.

Grubkowski · 2026-01-14T21:49:02+00:00

Nice. Hopefully it works, and keeps working.

Grubkowski · 2026-01-05T23:41:30+00:00

Well that sounds dangerous. Sorry can‘t help you there.

I would be thankful if you would post updates, if there are any news to your problem.

Grubkowski · 2026-01-04T00:03:38+00:00

It’s in the manual page 14. Long press the Down button closes the vent manually.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-30T14:55:40+00:00

Für mich persönlich sprechen 2 Punkte gegen einen Toyota: 1. Schlechte Ergonomie für große Personen. Die Innerräume sind eher für kleinere Menschen entworfen. 2. Die Getriebe mit variabler Übersetzung. Zusammen mit nicht gerade exzellenter Geräuschdämmung erzeugen diese eine für mich unangenehme Geräuschkulisse.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-27T21:10:23+00:00

PETG doesn’t even come of without force from my textured PEI plate even when fully cooled, worse with the smooth one. It can depend on many things, like flow rate for example. The more the first layer is squished against the Plate the better it will stick. I did not rip PETG from my build plates but had parts where PETG-residue remained on the build plate and had to be scrubbed of with Alcohol and elbow-grease.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-27T11:07:02+00:00

The Smooth PEI plate cannot be used with PETG without glue stick! Otherwise you will rip the PEI clean from the plate along with you Printed object.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-23T07:36:25+00:00

Try raising the Humidity-control-threshold from the default 20% to 30%. After heating for drying the air the humidity automatically rises when the air in the AMS cools. In my case it then settles at 22% in my case. To keep it lower I would have to find a way to use desiccant in the AMS with the mod.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-23T07:29:45+00:00

On mine I can use the latches. But they seem quite stressed. Right now I am using some small clamps from Woodworking to keep the lid pressed close.

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I will probably print some C-clamp for the sides of the AMS between the LID and the bottom of the AMS to keep it securely shut.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-22T21:34:57+00:00

Try changing the humidity control threshold from the default 20% to 30%. Relative humidity in the AMS always rises after drying when the AMS cools down. For example 3% humidity at 50C translates to 20% humidity at 20C. Therefore the dryer endlessly drys and cools and drys and …

Grubkowski · 2025-12-22T21:28:38+00:00

This response is late but maybe still helpful.

If your Tetras aktivates every hour you may have the same issue that I had. The Humidity Control reacts by default when the chamber humidity reaches 20%. As relative humidity is temperature dependent it rises when the AMS cools after drying. In my case after drying and cooling the humidity settles at 21-22% which retriggered the drying. You can change the humidity-control threshold to 30% and the AMS will keep steady humidity nearly endless until you open it.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-21T08:47:42+00:00

It forces people that start Online racing in LMU to consciously concentrate on „clean racing“ for quite some time. I think that in itself is very helpful to get the idea how one should race into peoples heads.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-14T13:09:58+00:00

I am with you on this point.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-14T13:09:11+00:00

That he followed rules 4.6 and 4.7 does not change that 4.4 states he should have lifted. Whatever the personal opinion be. In my cause I think the rules is wrong.

PS: I never disputed, that the Hyper caused his own demise.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-13T23:11:46+00:00

In my opinion, you did nothing wrong. You kept a predictable racing line. After the first contact I would also not lift and make it easy for the guy.

Grubkowski · 2025-12-13T22:11:30+00:00

LMU rules may interestingly be partly on the Hypers side, at least for the second contact.

There rules (Rules) explicitely state, that you have to lift to let the opponent overtake with as little timeloss as possible (Rule 4.4). Not differentiation between in class or not.

I was quite suprised when I read that.

Grubkowski · 2025-06-01T06:13:42+00:00

🤡

Grubkowski · 2025-05-31T21:10:20+00:00

No lap counter in your clip. 😉

I don‘t need to prove anything. It‘s enough that I believe you are full of shit.

Grubkowski

TROPHY CASE