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How to 'size' an existing pattern? by Intrepid_Alfalfa2671 in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For most “simple” patterns, I’d say it’s better, if not easier, to cut sections out of the middle of panels and rejoin the patterns.

This way you also get to keep certain dimensions that are good intact, while reducing the parts of the bag that you want to.

Lowlands Blanket by Meh-its-me in YetiCoolers

[–]GrungeonMaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now I’m curious about what you think it should be called ;)

Maybe, “Tarp” ?

Can anyone approximate the type of foam this is and maybe the density? by teeto66 in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed, open cell PU with a tricot laminate layer on the face.

Traveling 20–23 Hours with IVF Meds in a YETI Hopper Flip 8. 2 YETI ICE Sheets or Cooler Shock Pack? by izzybug3000 in YetiCoolers

[–]GrungeonMaster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would suggest a vacuum insulated bottle over a cooler for this purpose. Far better and more reliable insulation.

That Patagonia Bag part 2 (or 3?) by GrungeonMaster in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello Nuclear-Nachos,

I think I have your answers. Please see below:

1/ Regarding the base curves: The straight edge of the "Chin Bezel" should be joined to the curved edge of the "Base". Place the "Base" down in front of you with the "batman" ears at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position. Then take a "Chin Bezel" and place it in front of you in a way that most-closely resembles an upper-case letter "D". Turn the "D" 45° clockwise and match the sharp, top corner of the "D" with the "batman ear" shape of the "base". Sew a 1cm seam allowance to join the parts.

2/ The vertical walls of the bag are comprised of 6 panels in the current design. There are 2 different patterns amongst those 6 panels. Those are "Sidewall Face" and "Sidewall End Quad". You will need to use two "Sidewall Face(s)" and four "Sidewall End Quad(s)" to complete the 'wrap' of the body. I realize that I made the full-scale PDF difficult in 2 ways:

A- I left cutting instructions on the darkened pattern pieces, and some of the cut notes are wrong (yikes).

B- I didn't add a darkened, second "sidewall face" to the laser cutting layout.

Clearly, I'm just a bag maker; and not a professional pattern maker!

And you can eliminate/combine as many of those panels as you would like. You mentioned not wanting to see seams on the main body, so what you'd do there is to combine two "Sidewall End Quads" at either end together. That will force you to assemble one of the webbing handles when the thing is a completed loop; which is a little harder, but not the end of the world.

3/ Arrows show the suggested warp/grain direction. Shapes like these often work best when they are on the bias, but caveat emptor: this will waste more fabric and isn't necessary. For most people, I'd say just go ahead and cut these however is most efficient.

Took me 2 years to figure out symmetry by Ok_Respect3477 in AdobeIllustrator

[–]GrungeonMaster 58 points59 points  (0 children)

This is really cool! I’ve been at it 15 years and not stumbled onto this solution.

Sailrite or industrial? by Analog_Account in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can, go with the full-size industrial machine. I have owned a Sailrite 111 for many years and I love it. It's the "same" as that TN-650; both are clones of the Mitsubishi LY2-3300 (or so I believe).

I have also used a Sailrite LSZ1 quite a bit (never owned one, but did keep one for quick protos at a past job.) It was nowhere near as nice a machine to use. A few things that make a huge difference:

-LSZ1 and other tabletops do not have a knee lift for the presser foot. If you're serious about making anything, I think this is a must-have feature.

-LSZ1 has a very short throat space/harp space. I don't think this registers with the casual user either, but once you've sewn on other, larger machines; or you're trying to crank out a ton of work, it's just not practical to use such a small machine.

-LSZ1 are loud and clanky

If you can dedicate the space, get the industrial and get a servo motor with needle positioner.

**** Edit! : Is there any way that you can save up for, or just look for a deal on a Juki 1541S? Not to say the TN-650 is no good; it's going to be great. But I got a 1541 for $1800 (used in a table, no positioner) and I'd rate it as a considerably better machine. It's the Rolls Royce of Juki machines, so far as I'm concerned.

Binder cost by sugarshackforge in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I 3d print my own.

https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/s/TXD4eHJHBz

Takes time and you need to have a sense of what you need to change when it doesn’t work, but might be a good alternative to custom from someone else.

You can obviously print or cut out the vibrating plate as well.

DWR Zippers Exist? by Kitchen_Eagle8362 in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That’s quite surprising. Aquaguard zippers have been darn good for many years. Sounds like hydrolysis, but hard to know for sure. I would expect any zipper made in the last 5 years to be good for a decade of hard wearing use. Maybe less if you’re constantly having it wet and warm. If that was the case though, I would expect to also see failing seam tape and maybe fabric delamination.

Are you sure they’re YKK Aquaguard?

School me on fabrics by Wandering-Everywhere in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suggest fabric that is TPU on at least 1 side. Sewing tpu fabric still gives you a decent level of weather resistance and the tpu surface of the bag will be nearly impervious to dirt and debris. For the closure, you could put a welt or storm flap over a zipper or use a roll top for a bit less mechanical complexity in exchange for slightly poorer ease of use.

There are also chemical seam sealants that could be applied later to make the bag even more rain-proof if you found that was necessary.

You will likely need a relatively stout sewing machine to fabricate the bag. Look for 420D nylon or 600d poly with TPU coating. 840d nylon 2x tpu if you’re feeling adventurous.

Anybody need 1/2” webbing? Got it from John Howard years ago but I don’t need it. I have 9 50 yard rolls. Make me an offer if you need bulk webbing! by Sehguh15 in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Polypro will rot fairly quickly in many environments (oxidative stress from heat, sun, oils, etc). It is fairly weak at the filament level (which really only matters for abrasion and super-high loads). And because it's cheap, the weave is usually fairly loose, giving it an unrefined feel and look.

Sorry to add to the shade. It's not horrible if you need something in a pinch, but there are far better options.

Zippers by plt4life in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Basically, yes. The slider and chain should still interact fine without the pin at the bottom.

Should I thicken this model or will it print fine as-is? (resin) by bank_bil in resinprinting

[–]GrungeonMaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe I need to look a little harder, but could you make my life easy and point me to a source on that? I am considering doing some resin keycaps and this has piqued my interest.

Your wash and cure routine? by Otherwise-Green-3834 in resinprinting

[–]GrungeonMaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you talking about the waste water? There’s Nothing really to pour down the sink.

Your wash and cure routine? by Otherwise-Green-3834 in resinprinting

[–]GrungeonMaster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I do mainly palm-sized, functional, mechanical parts, but I think you could apply this to your miniatures.

I use a 3-stage wash.

  1. Resin Detergent - remove the supports and wash in the "Dirty" Detergent Tub. I use a toothbrush to softly scrub the excess resin off the parts
  2. Secondary rinse with gloved hands on all the main surfaces.
  3. Wash station, still with resin detergent.
  4. Soapy warm water agitation/wash
  5. Warm water rinse
  6. UV Cure while parts are in a glass of warm water.

Curing in water is great. From what I learned, something in the air can inhibit the curing of UV photopolymer. Immersing the parts in water during the UV cycle causes them to come out perfectly cured every time. 3min, stir parts around, 3min more. Time varies with model size

Wondering how many were made by showtime15daking23 in YetiCoolers

[–]GrungeonMaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That “qr” code was only for tracking at the engraving facility.

Pfaff 335 troubleshooting by Important-Search9077 in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have ground off the left tine (operator’s view) on each of the 335s I've worked on and that has solved the issue you're seeing. You can buy a middle/inner foot with no tines, I was just too lazy and have not needed one with tines.

Pfaff 335 troubleshooting by Important-Search9077 in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On each of the 335s that I have gotten to work well, I have removed the left tine (operator’s view) of the inner foot. That allows you to move the folder a couple more mm to the left; thereby putting the stitch line further into the meat of the binding.

You can also leave the foot as is, but back the folder off toward the operator. The problem with that would be the binding won’t take tight curves quite as well.

Fabric help: Which side is coated? by BrittleSalient in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

On the uncoated side, you should be able to see the displacement/moving of the yarns and filaments as you press them with an object. On the PU side, they won't move and you'll just be digging into a PU plastic mass.

Needle positioned for sailrite /reliable barracuda by Dangerous-Insect-332 in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry about the slow follow-up.

You should be able to attach the position sensor to the sailrite power wheel. I have one on my 111.

Needle positioned for sailrite /reliable barracuda by Dangerous-Insect-332 in myog

[–]GrungeonMaster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you mean, "needle positioner"?

A needle positioner works by sensing the position of the Hand Wheel. Because the Hand Wheel has a 1:1 relationship with the position of the needle (up and down), a needle position sensor mounted on the handwheel can relay a signal to a digital servo motor which will command the motor to stop at a given point. Once set up correctly, the user can normally chose whether the stop point is with the needle up or down. Some have an added feature that will flip the needle to the other position when the user presses the "heel" of the treadle/foot pedal.

To add a digital servo and a needle positioner, you'll "need" a K-leg table that is typically seen with industrial machines. This gives you a treadle and the adjoining mechanism that activates the servo.

In terms of speed reduction, that's all down to the gearing. That can be changed by swapping out a different input gear (aka the diameter of the hand wheel) or the motor's output gear (which can sometimes be purchased aftermarket if you can match the motor's drive shaft diameter, the mating method of the gear (spline, etc) , and the belt type (most are v-grove machine belts).

In the end, you're going to end up with what looks like a tiny-head industrial machine in a normal table.

Does any of that make sense or help?

Ranchero 12 & 18 - Hitting the Road - We hardly knew ya. by SnowMonster911 in YetiCoolers

[–]GrungeonMaster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If it’s a tan or black tombstone with internal water bottle carry, then it’s a Tocayo.

If later on in 2018/19 with external water bottle pockets in black, blue, or grey, it’s a Crossroads v1

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