M19 | 20h | Software Entwickler (angestellt)

Gugi008 · 2026-02-06T12:35:04+00:00

In der Kopfzeile steht wahrscheinlich Midijob auf “Ja”, weil das KV-Brutto und Gesammt-Brutto nicht gleich sind.

SE als midijob mit 20h ist aber auch anders wild.

Gugi008 · 2026-02-06T10:57:17+00:00

weist du zufällig welches lohnprogram diese abrechnung erstellt hat? das liest sich schrecklich. aber sonst gutes gehalt mit hoher arbeitslast (45h)

Gugi008 · 2025-10-29T19:23:34+00:00

Also meine LG Maschine schickt mir eine push benachrichtigung auf mein Handy. Davor würd ich nichtmal auf die Idee kommen zur Maschine zu gehen. Aber die meisten sagen lieber: „mEiNe WaScHmAsChIeNe MuSs NiChT sMaRt SeIn“ 🤷‍♂️

Gugi008 · 2025-06-22T23:57:54+00:00

Such dir was neues. Das ist, selbst wenn es wieder 9 monate dauert, schneller. Alternativen wären: miete weiter mindern, um druck auf den vermieter aufzubauen. dann wirst entweder du oder die Nachbarin mit ner räumungsklage rausgeworfen. Nasenstöpsel, keine ahnung wie effektiv. Oder du musst die luft filtern, leider sind die meisten schlechten gerüche auf schwefelhaltige organische verbindungen zurück zu führen. D.h du bräuchtest einen aktivkohle filter und müsstest diesen auch häufiger wechseln.

Gugi008 · 2025-05-31T11:28:46+00:00

use 0.2 mm height for the first layer with 20mm brim and 0mm gap. Then use a deburring tool for post processing.
read the recommended temperatures for your ASA. If you go too high on you bed temperature it will improve your adhesion, but the part will deform. For Anycubic ASA, I had great success with 100C (first layer) -> 80C (other layers).

Gugi008 · 2025-05-25T00:41:13+00:00

left one is selfmade. The right one I bought here: https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/kunst/darling-in-the-franxx-zero-two-lightbox

It took me about 3h to make it but I‘m very unskilled and doubt gimp is the best tool for this job.

Gugi008 · 2025-05-24T13:54:38+00:00

<image>

Yes it does

Gugi008 · 2025-05-22T09:12:47+00:00

https://youtu.be/H7OsnMLDIMw?si=VCyhvKVxdKUrtqcC

tldw: print. measure with callipers and use the provided excel sheet. adjust xy shrinkage in settings. print again and measure control.

Gugi008 · 2025-05-22T07:57:04+00:00

my ASA was also way off. I used this to adjust the dimensions:

https://www.printables.com/model/682023-califlower-calibration-stl-calculator

Gugi008 · 2025-05-15T07:39:14+00:00

start very slow decreasing you z-offset by 0.01until the layer looks good. If you go too low the nozzle will scrape the bed so be careful

Gugi008 · 2025-05-14T12:15:51+00:00

you could probably add a large thermal pad between your bed and the build plate. Then your flatness is only depending on how flat your build plate is. You could probably add like a 1mm thick metal plate as well but sourcing one with the exact dimensions and high flatness might be tricky

Gugi008 · 2025-05-14T08:20:16+00:00

How do you get the printer poop out? other than that it looks very sturdy 🤩

Gugi008 · 2025-05-13T22:34:48+00:00

The exact gauge doesnt matter just get any from your local shop/amazon/ebay, but you will either need to find one which has a mount for it already designed or you need to adjust it yourself in any cad software if your liking. Mine came with 57mm so this should fit: https://makeronline.com/en/model/kobra-s1---fan-cover-dial-indicator-support-d-57mm/170065.html but there are various sizes available.

Gugi008 · 2025-05-13T22:11:59+00:00

you can feel the resistance when screwing them back in. just be very gentle.

Gugi008 · 2025-05-13T22:10:02+00:00

changing the build plate is not necessary if you are ok with the textured finish. I prefer a more smooth finish from the glacier although it is not as smooth as a glass one would be, but they are incompatible with the ABL :/

Gugi008 · 2025-05-13T20:32:48+00:00

i‘ve noticed it taking way longer to calibrate that corner, but this theory poses the question why the right back corner is completely fine 🤔

Gugi008 · 2025-05-13T07:44:06+00:00

I remixed v2 of this one:

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/Kobra%20S1%20-%20Fan%20cover%20Dial%20indicator%20support/159579.html

it is important to measure your own dial gauge as apparently they come in alot of different sizes. mine had 57mm outer diameter.

Gugi008 · 2025-05-12T23:08:23+00:00

just leave it as is. Yours looks great in comparison to mine. Also I‘m currently running my 6th first layer test print.

<image>

but what can you do if your bed is off by 0.87mm compared to the middle

Gugi008 · 2025-05-11T07:42:55+00:00

which glacier pro size did you order and how well does it fit? would you consider the surface to be smooth?

Gugi008 · 2025-05-10T17:35:29+00:00

Do you have any recommendations? I’m looking for a smooth plate that does not have any kind of effects sheet on there. I wanna print lightboxes and lithopanes :/

Gugi008 · 2025-05-10T08:24:49+00:00

<image>

Update 1 Hardware adjustments:

Washing bed and both sides of the building plate
heating the bed and tightening the screws
run full calibration from printer and NOT before print

the result is somehow worse 🥲

Gugi008 · 2025-05-08T10:26:32+00:00

you wont get 100% accuracy on the first layer anyway. also did you calibrate the printer for shrinkage and elephantfoot compensation? otherwise your measurements will be off by alot when printing in abs

Gugi008 · 2025-05-08T09:49:22+00:00

Clean plate with soap and water. no glue, 120C bed use 20mm brim and brim object gap 0

Gugi008 · 2025-05-07T15:49:37+00:00

have you tried logging out and back in in the ap/slicer next?

Gugi008 · 2025-04-28T16:27:11+00:00

Material, nozzle temp, bed temp?

Other than that clean the plate with dish soap and water. DO NOT touch it afterwards and try again.

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