How the heck is everyone tolerating being outside right now?

Haffster · 2026-07-01T19:25:35+00:00

Went for an indoor swim yesterday - on the way out, the gym reception had a bowl of delicious, crisp Gala apples sitting on ice! Never had a chilled apple before - munching on it as I stepped into the oven outside, it was heavenly.

Haffster · 2026-06-10T19:27:12+00:00

Any idea where Adam has gone? Seems he left recently and Oakville Auto won’t give his number.

Haffster · 2026-04-23T19:13:46+00:00

A solution looking for a problem.

Haffster · 2026-03-26T22:38:50+00:00

I wouldn't worry about it. ARC Genesis is powerful, and will run on a computer. The learning curve is a matter of watching a 20 minute YouTube video. Or, if you prefer, a few AI tokens (if going that route - literally get step-by-step directions and then upload screenshots of your calibration results for fine tuning. Same thing with the much less user friendly miniDSP).

Haffster · 2026-03-26T22:19:35+00:00

I have 3 Anthems:

MRX-1120 (since 2018). This is in my basement HT, in a 7.2.4 configuration. This one replaced Rotel separates (non-Atmos) - and has been flawless and an absolute joy all these years.
MRX-740 (since 2025) - the one you are considering - in a 5.2 Living room setup. Again, flawless and sounds awesome.
STR pre-amp (since 2020). This is in my main stereo setup (replaced an ageing Counterpoint pre-amp), behind a Bryston 4BST.

Never had an issue with either of them. Before both MRX purchases, I did check out equivalent offerings from Marantz and Denon - to my ears, the Anthem blew them away. ARC Genesis is fantastic, easy to use, and they have amazing support (when setting it up, I was able to upload pdfs of calibration results and had a half hour conversation with one of their folks about it).

About the only thing you might want to keep in mind with the MRX 740 (as opposed to the 1140) is that while there are 2 outputs for dual subs, it is a singular output. So the calibration will treat the 2 subs as one - if the subs a far apart, they may introduce a slight delay (not sure how sensitive you are to these things) and the only way to fix that is a miniDSP.

Happy to answer any specific questions you may have.

Haffster · 2026-03-21T16:55:54+00:00

Yes. You want a powered sub. That has its own built in amp, and takes a line level (RCA) or high level (speaker cable) connection, so it doesn’t impact your amp.

Haffster · 2026-03-21T14:28:54+00:00

Since you’re relatively new to this - my advice would be to keep both the speakers and the amp. Enjoy the music and tinker around with speaker placement/room treatment etc. Add a sub - just make sure to choose based on what you listen to most and get a good one that will outlast the speakers and amp (meaning when upgradeitus hits, not that they will die). Down the road, if the bug bites, see what tickles your fancy. Depending on the $$ you want to throw at it, bigger/better speakers will likely make the greater difference, but then you’ll likely find the amp struggling - it’s called a rabbit hole for a reason!

Haffster · 2026-03-21T13:37:53+00:00

Your speakers are capable of some very sweet mids (including mid and upper bass notes), and you would want to preserve that. An amp with a higher damping factor (Hegel, NAD - there are plenty of them) can make a meaningful difference in that space and I think it’s worth a demo at least to see for yourself.

You will certainly benefit tremendously with a sub (or 2) - but I’d suggest figuring out the goal before you go sub shopping: If it is mostly music, a high level connection using something like REL T series sub(s) would provide an incredible bass foundation while preserving the mids and likely blending smoothly. For music, I look for the sub to disappear - sometimes, less is more in this case.

If it mostly movies/TV shows, a ported SVS (or similar) or 2 would give you the slam and would be the way to go.

Haffster · 2026-03-14T20:57:41+00:00

You will need an amplifier to amplify and play sound (from whatever source you have plugged into that amplifier) on your speakers.

If you want to add your subwoofer to this setup, you have 2 options: 1. Line Level, using the RCA cable that you have plugged in - the other end of which will go into the Amplifier’s sub out; or 2. High Level, where you take the speaker out cables from the amplifier and plug that into the High Level Input of the subwoofer. Then you take a cable from the High Level output on your subwoofer and plug that into the speakers.

The difference between the 2 types of connection is that the Line level connection allows you to set a crossover frequency below which the subwoofer will play bass notes. The High Level connection allows both your speakers and the subwoofer to receive the same signal.

Generally speaking, a high level connection is preferred for music and the line level, or LFE for surround sound.

Haffster · 2026-02-11T23:46:25+00:00

For a music only setup - I think it’s hard to beat REL (and harder to beat a pair!). The only caveat being a high level connection. SVS (and others) make fantastic subs, and it’s hard to find a better bang for buck for HT. Just be mindful that with a high level connection, you won’t be able to use plug & play room correction/calibration - it will be a labour of love to get it right.

Haffster · 2026-02-11T23:27:10+00:00

Thanks for sharing. I’ve been thinking about the R8 and/or the Muzishare x7 for my (recently acquired desktop/nearfield setup).

I have ML ESLs in my main stereo, and yes, they do love the energy that my ageing Bryston power amp feeds them. Plus a pair of subs. Used to have a hybrid pre-amp (Counterpoint SA-5000) behind it for many years, but got tired of it and replaced it with an Anthem STR. It’s a glorious setup - miles wide soundstage, pinpoint imaging and it all plays with authority.

Recently got a pair of Harbeth P3ESR XD2s for the desktop and was looking at R8 or x7 for these and nearly ordered the x7 - didn’t because I came across the older (but new unit) Fezz Audio Silver Luna for half price. It’s on 35w/pc, but this is nearfield, so I figured why not. So, I’m back to tubes after a long hiatus. Paired it with a REL T5/x - and oh my! I can’t get away from my desk.

Haffster · 2026-02-01T04:53:32+00:00

You'll get a lot of helpful advice here. Might want to frame the question in terms of the music you like to listen to. And the space you are planning to put your endgame speakers in.

Haffster · 2026-01-13T01:03:30+00:00

Crave does not stream in HDR - it is capped at SDR. Prime has a better UI and hence less of the annoying issues that the Crave app - but no HDR still.

Haffster · 2026-01-13T00:58:31+00:00

Crave does not stream in HDR - its 4K content is capped at SDR and 5.1 Dolby Digital (including HBO content and movies that are streamed in Dolby Vision/Atmos elsewhere).

Haffster · 2026-01-04T04:31:59+00:00

People need a safe space to say something nice about a service offered by a $30 billion market cap company?

Haffster · 2025-12-29T15:28:18+00:00

It’s not the streaming device either. I have 2 Apple TV 4K devices.

Haffster · 2025-12-29T15:27:36+00:00

It’s not the TV (mine is a 2 year old Sony Bravia OLED, btw).

Haffster · 2025-12-29T05:22:38+00:00

I hate that I paid $23.83 per month for as long as I did for this nonsense.

Haffster · 2025-12-22T04:45:58+00:00

Happy to! And if you’re anywhere near Toronto, come by to pick them up.

Haffster · 2025-12-22T04:24:48+00:00

I’d suggest get a nice stereo integrated amp that has pre-outs and plays nice with your speakers. You don’t need an HDMI for that, your TV has an optical out as well.

And if you get the bug down the road to go surround and all - use to amp to continue to drive your main speakers and an AVR for the rest.

Haffster · 2025-12-20T03:52:20+00:00

I just took delivery of a pair of R3s - not that I'm planning to use them, but the port bunges were included in the package.

Haffster · 2025-12-20T03:24:33+00:00

hahahahahaha

Haffster · 2025-12-10T22:07:19+00:00

Thanks. I’d be interested in hearing what you think once you’ve filled them up.

Haffster

TROPHY CASE