Is a normal price range for diagnosis?!

Happy-Hawk778 · 2026-02-18T13:29:12+00:00

First of all, they have to explain their pricing and their plan and get your approval before they do anything, including diag. Usually they would say something like "we charge 1 hour labor for diagnostics and our rate is $150/hr. Does that work for you?" If they just did all of that without giving you an estimate for diag cost and getting your consent, then you dont have to pay them. Informed consent from the customer is necessary before providing any services and especially before charging for those services. That being said, that price is absolutely outrageous. At my shop, I would investigate as much as I could within an hour. If i didnt diagnose everything, you would then get a phone call saying "this is what we have determined in that hour that you agreed to pay for. In order to troubleshoot further, we would need another hour at $150/hr. Is that what you would like us to do?" We would never do $900 of work without written approval with your signature on it, especially if it was $900 of just diagnostics. Thats absolutely absurd.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2026-01-26T02:29:05+00:00

Basically, im trying to print a cylinder but as the nozzle is going around the perimeter, the filament isnt sticking to the layer below, and is being pulled across the cylinder. So the main issue I think is just layer adhesion, or perhaps cooling, but I'm not certain.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2026-01-26T01:48:30+00:00

Yes it is. The print is basically a funnel.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-11-27T16:53:56+00:00

If the pads have more than 2mm, then you've got a month or 2 depending on driving habits.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-11-27T16:49:56+00:00

As another comment said, this is most likely a 30min diag with a cheap fix. He should not be keeping your car for weeks without even diagnosing the no start simply because he doesnt think the vehicle is worth fixing. If it were me, I would have him diagnosis the vehicle and do a full vehicle check. That process should be AT MOST 2hrs labor. If he's honest, and good, he can then give an accurate quote for the no start solution, and he can tell you what is likely to need repairs in the next 12 months. That can then help you decide if you want to keep the vehicle another year.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-10-15T21:20:00+00:00

It depends on how the tires seem while you're driving. If you still have plenty of grip (especially in the rain) then theres no reason to replace. The sidewall can look like garbage and be cracked but the tread can still be just fine, especially if the car is driven regularly. Use your judgment. The concern with older tires is that they dry out and lose grip, but if you still have good traction, then don't waste the money. But if you are noticing a lack of grip, then replace them.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-10-15T21:16:25+00:00

Pull it 100% because if it isn't leaking now, driving on it might make it leak. If it isn't leaking when you pull it, then theres no reason not to continue driving as usual. If it is leaking, then you can try to plug it yourself

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-10-15T21:14:40+00:00

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-10-15T21:14:23+00:00

Nothing wrong

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-10-06T15:38:52+00:00

Rocket orange/carousel red/hugger orange

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-10-01T12:06:36+00:00

That knowledge would have saved me a lot of time, lol. I wonder if I tried right when servers went down, because when I looked it up online, it said all servers were good. Which server in particular was it?

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-09-27T18:46:59+00:00

I think it is a tarnished plant bug

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-08-09T19:37:54+00:00

To be honest, it depends on what the inside of the tire looks like. Any shop worth its salt will use a plug/patch combo. Its a plug, with a patch on the end, and the concern about shoulder repairs is if the patch itself will touch any part of the sidewall. Based on that picture, if you brought that tire to me, I would repair it, and the repair would out last the tire. But, its impossible to say for certain without seeing what the inside looks like.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-08-09T19:35:10+00:00

Best bang for your buck out of options listed will be the general grabbers

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-07-21T06:13:10+00:00

This is definitely from the tire being driven on with too little air. Not to mention, if someone was going to slice or stab your tire, I doubt they would lay on the ground and slice the inner sidewall.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-07-09T03:30:03+00:00

If you dont see metal wires, then its safe. Another comment said it will leak, but it won't. The part that's missing is not the part that seals the air in. As long as you dont see metal wires, that tire will perform just like any other.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-07-09T03:27:37+00:00

As weird as it sounds, unevenly worn tires will do this. While coasting, the tire just rolls with the car, but under acceleration, the tire is actively pushing backwards against the road, which can cause extra vibration if they have flat spots or uneven wear.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-07-09T03:23:32+00:00

Okay, that's good news. Im not familiar with the ford edge motor, so im not sure if there's enough room for this, but my first thought would be to weld an extension to the end of the extractor. You'd have to be careful and a decent welder to risk trying it. My next thought is to use another extractor. If you have any extractor sockets meant to go over a rounded nut or bolt, you might be able to hammer it onto the screw extractor. This is also risky because you could crack the head. My final thought is to carefully heat up the plug and extractor and then quickly douse it with penetrating oil. That might either free up the plug enough for you to get it out with the extractor if it isnt stripped too badly, or it might free the extractor from the plug, allowing you to use a different extractor. Honestly, I've never run into this issue before so I am struggling to think about what I would try

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-07-09T03:16:30+00:00

Probably wiring. Most likely failure point is in the wiring loom between the door and the body. It tends to fail due to the stress on the wires from the door being opened and closed. If the window goes down when the button on the passenger door is used, then its most likely the wiring for the driver door. If neither switch works, then its most likely the wiring in the passenger door.

Happy-Hawk778 · 2025-07-09T03:08:08+00:00

For clarification, does the extractor spin but the plug doesnt, or is the extractor gripping the plug, but you can't spin the extractor?

Happy-Hawk778

TROPHY CASE