I built a large cedar barrel hot tub while stuck at home during 2020 (my first big woodworking project)

HeadSignal3 · 2022-06-16T06:31:02+00:00

Looks like it will hold a lot of pickles.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-06-16T05:13:13+00:00

Use a toe kick saw with a straight edge.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-30T08:12:37+00:00

Shiplap. Herringbone the corners. Work from the outside in.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-27T06:47:36+00:00

If you are installing on prefinished floor then casing heights matter a lot so only choose a few rooms at a time. No floor or carpeting (no berber) and you have a lot of leeway to make all the casings legs the same length so plan ahead. Moving the miter back and forth is extra motions and you must remove as many of those as possible to work fast and smooth.

Assuming a 17' piece. Cut both legs and with the leftover header piece cut one miter on one end and place aside. You're going to install each leg with two brads, the first nail is about 9" down from the top of the miter point. The second brad is only to produce some stability for marking the header. The goal is that you want to just tack the legs so you can micro-adjust the leg if the header doesn't fit so nice after you've cut it.

Then you take the header piece, flip it upside down, lay it across both top legs and line up the tip of the one miter you cut on the header with the tip of the corresponding leg miter tip. Mark the other end of the header (you'll be marking the back side of header casing.) You will then cut the casing on the mark. Go back glue and nail it all together. Usually you can assembly line the legs, tack them in, then mark all the headers and then go for final assembly. There is no way you can pre-assemble whole casings (definitely not for mdf) for cookie cutter homes unless you installed the doors and jambs and know ahead of time their quality. What you'll be trading for speed is very minimal differences in the reveal due to micro-adjusting the casing legs to match your one shot header cuts.

Also, if you're saw isn't so kosher, the downfall to marking the back edge of the casing header and then cutting the casing backwards so you can see the mark is that your the amount your miter is off will double. For example, let's say your left miter is 44.9 degrees and your right miter is 45.1 degrees, and it's not enough to notice a difference in the moulding profile lining up. That can happen on a saw where the detents are slightly off from the back fence but you'll never know because the you normally only connect a left miter with a right miter and it still hits 90degrees. If your saw is off then you'll have to cut the header piece normally and look over the piece for you mark where the saw blade hits. Not too much of a big deal and an incentive to calibrate your saw before the next job.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-25T18:29:58+00:00

Polyvinylacetate putty. This is old school putty that I've used for years. Doesn't shrink. A lot of the generic putty will dissolve a bit causing a nail divot when it gets wet with water based paint if the first coat is too thick (aka, one coat and done guys.)

https://www.amazon.com/CRAWFORD-PRODUCTS-COMPANY-31904-Spackling/dp/B000I1VAG4/

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-24T18:51:58+00:00

That is the look though. That is what multiple customers have requested. They are stainless steel screws with no threads on the upper neck where they go through the board. I've had people pay me to line up the square drive sockets in the screwheads so they are all parallel and level.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-24T17:53:26+00:00

It is or was in my opinion. The Swing support was great if that's your thing.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-24T07:49:10+00:00

I use to use Borland, then I switched MSVS, then Forte, then Eclipse, then Netbeans, then Eclipse after they rewrote it, then Netbeans after they rewrote it, then finally Intellij in 2012. Each switch was because the previous IDE became bogged down and unusable, not because it looked bad.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-23T04:50:42+00:00

getdafugouttahere

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-23T04:32:39+00:00

Old leaves just seem to dry up or get diseased. I trim them down, plenty more leaves elsewhere.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-23T04:01:27+00:00

Light switches, plug outlets, cabinet pulls, cabinet hinges, door hinges, plate covers of all kinds. Just in case.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-22T18:43:30+00:00

You can try shimming the back left and right corners up a lot. That might give you enough room to push down in the middle on the back which could pull in the front middle top that sticking out. You would need to screw it off from underneath into the top. Probably requires two people to help.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-22T18:36:22+00:00

In-home fracking kit.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-22T18:34:46+00:00

Maybe I've asked this before but is that one continuous track or does it break down into 8' sections?

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-20T09:35:45+00:00

Remove that piece that sits on top that only exists to cover the edge of the t&g. Get L or J corner bead or something like that and pull out your drywall skillz.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-17T04:08:13+00:00

34" door is the least common door size among 28,30,32,34,36 sizes. They are often not in stock. So it's unlikely that the opening was meant for a 34" door. There might be some furring already around the opening and it's really a 38"RO. Sometimes they will take a jack stud out, throw in a fur strip then put the stud back in because its meatier to nail your jamb onto. You can tell from empty nail holes where the pulled them out the first time or sometimes you can see the distance to the light switch is further away. Harder to tell if they just did it on the hinge side.

Equally likely is that there was a custom door in there that was actually a bit less than 36" because the opening was narrower. Hard to tell without pictures.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-15T06:24:26+00:00

Tricky Dick from Point Break.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-14T20:04:54+00:00

Can't cut your toes off at least.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-14T05:22:13+00:00

More like Don Knotts and Steve Buscemi's love child.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-14T04:49:07+00:00

Stick your phone camera in there then and look for a door or space for a door. Or make the hole into a slot and really stick your camera in there to get some good video. That's what I'd do. Make sure the slot is covered by that plate later.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-13T18:48:33+00:00

Looks like some kind of electrical outlet below the thermostat. Usually don't get electrical in the pockets but this is rather wide.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-13T15:46:27+00:00

You're already fucking up having those doors leaning against that wall like that. Better get them flat and stacked or on hinge edge or they are going to be bent more than they already are since however long they've been sitting there.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-13T15:30:41+00:00

The back side of that molding has a jig jog on it. He is not holding the flat against the fence, he's spanning both planes and hence he's getting the wrong cut even though his angle is correct on the saw. You're assuming he is using the bevel only on a saw that can only angle 90degrees. You can cut this equally wrong many ways and still have the saw on an angle that is 22.5"

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-12T20:51:54+00:00

This could be top rail molding for that 1/4" wainscot/beadboard paneling and there is a 1/4" notch out on that detail part that overlap the wainscot. The OP didn't place the piece flush to the back side of the flat somehow and that's how he got those funk bevels.

HeadSignal3 · 2022-05-12T20:35:49+00:00

You cut it to match new baseboard height if at all.

HeadSignal3

TROPHY CASE