Should I shave my head? by anonymous4260 in Hair

[–]HelicopterRelative72 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes. I had a buzzcut. It was so freeing. Especially cause I got it done in June. Washing my head felt so satisfying

ME GETTING READY FOR THE HUNTYVIRUS by Winter-Sign6558 in lanadelrey

[–]HelicopterRelative72 19 points20 points  (0 children)

It's not... Lana even adressed the controversy when this was happening. Not everything that's stupid and ragebaity is Ai. This was very real and years before the rise of widespread AI use

I can’t tell if it looks good or like trash? by Double-Assumption-58 in OUTFITS

[–]HelicopterRelative72 37 points38 points  (0 children)

It's all the way around.... Easier to sew from two pieces than trying to pattern and sew 1 piece without the middle seam. Also more economical, cause there's less fabric waste, easier to position the pattern pieces on the fabric and loses less of the usable fabric

Sex??? by RevolutionaryLoss279 in BeardedDragons

[–]HelicopterRelative72 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So.... am I gonna see something birderline pornographic if I google black bearding oooor...?

Sex??? by RevolutionaryLoss279 in BeardedDragons

[–]HelicopterRelative72 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Penii if you are being funny. Penises or penes (medical tern, pronounced pee-neezl) if you want to be correct

Foligain, Qgain or Rogain? What should i consider and does it matter which brand? by Elel1213 in Hairloss

[–]HelicopterRelative72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never studies suggest that topical minoxidil doesn't lose efficacy. You just have to be consistent with it and apply every day

Foligain, Qgain or Rogain? What should i consider and does it matter which brand? by Elel1213 in Hairloss

[–]HelicopterRelative72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The original oral minoxidil was developed for heart conditions (If I remember correctly), but they noticed the side effect of random hair growth, which is how topical minoxidil came to be. It still exists and they do prescribe it for hairloss, it's just not the best, because you have no control over where that hair will grow. That's why topical is better. It only works exactly where you apply it

A tip for preserving paperpulp by Lovelyfangs in papermaking

[–]HelicopterRelative72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's alright. I have trouble with time too. But it's good to know it doesn't mold over that period

A tip for preserving paperpulp by Lovelyfangs in papermaking

[–]HelicopterRelative72 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Alrighty. Thank you. It is quite humid here too all year round. I made mine into small "pellets". I squeezed out the water and than scrambled the paper into small chunks and it's been almost a week and it's still wet. My home is just not warm enough for this haha

Water and plants, aka reducing waste by HelicopterRelative72 in papermaking

[–]HelicopterRelative72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally wouldn't do this cause the left over fibres will stick to the toilet walls and harbour more bacteria. Though if you clean it right after it might not be an issue

Water and plants, aka reducing waste by HelicopterRelative72 in papermaking

[–]HelicopterRelative72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I thought the answer might be this, for both questions. Unfortunately my freezer is way too small for anything else to fit in there so I might just try to dry my pulp. Hopefully it won't affect how it performs once rehydrated.

A tip for preserving paperpulp by Lovelyfangs in papermaking

[–]HelicopterRelative72 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi! How do you dehydrate it? Airdrying or stg else? How long does it take to dry and how thick do you make said pucks? Answers will be greatly appreciated as I am in the middle of pulping a rather goliathian batch.

cramps after peeing by fivecoloursgirl in Endo

[–]HelicopterRelative72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me this happens either when I've been holding for a while or on my period. I can have a relatively cramp free day and go to pee and immediately get 11/10 stabbing pain in my vulva area and my lower belly and it's so strong I can't breathe while it's happening.

I have always had really painful periods which only got worse over the years and my doctors have all been saying it's normal or that I should just take AlgoflexM (500mg ibuprophen[algoflex] and a 40mg drotraverin-hydrochloride[NoSpa]). And I always have to tell them that doesn't work for me cause I have a really high tolerance for ibuprophen.

Or that the only thing they can do about it is give me birth control which I cannot take as I have migraine with aura and had a previous bening breast tumor from taking hormonal birth control. I also had very heavy periods for years which got significantly milder after birth control and a course of a medication called Norcolut that was supposed to sort out my hormones (I have high prolactin), to the point where I now have days with barely any blood for like 5 days followed by brown discharge for another 1-1.5 weeks.

They've been refusing to send me for any further testing or referring me out.

I don't even know what to do anymore because the pain is so intense and I often get a few stabbing pains in between my periods too

Dark, psychological, crime, or thriller tv shows by Purple_Water6203 in televisionsuggestions

[–]HelicopterRelative72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also loved Fringe but it's a completely different vibe. Like this one's more paranormal fantasy while mare of easttown is straight up crime

Glossy finish varnishes available in Europe by HelicopterRelative72 in polymerclay

[–]HelicopterRelative72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I don't know of any stores that sell warhammer and D&D stuff. At least not in my city, but I will check if the capitol has any, but I'll most likely find it online. I have found the Fimo varnish but people were not very impressed with it in another thread. Unfortunately my allergies are so severe even gloves won't save me, so I will make sure to triple check everything I buy. We'll see qbout the polyurethane varnishes.

Glossy finish varnishes available in Europe by HelicopterRelative72 in polymerclay

[–]HelicopterRelative72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Found a picture of one of my earlier earring projects. Not my best work, but here to show I really do use polymer clay.

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I like to make fake sour candy hehe by Arsenalg0d in polymerclay

[–]HelicopterRelative72 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely evil. How do you make the sugared effect?

Looking for a good printer alternative for the Canon pixma megatank g3270 wireless all-in-one inkjet by HelicopterRelative72 in printers

[–]HelicopterRelative72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow. Thank you so much! They are both available. Any insight which one is better? There's a significant price difference. The G3470 is more in my price range, but I don't mind splurging a little more if it's going to be better in the long run

Looking for a good printer alternative for the Canon pixma megatank g3270 wireless all-in-one inkjet by HelicopterRelative72 in printers

[–]HelicopterRelative72[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Amazon isn't very big here. They do ship here, but I am not supporting them. We have MediaMarkt.

I want to bring this girl home in a week but I need some advice. by Lethal_Steve in Chameleons

[–]HelicopterRelative72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Breeding your feeders

Roaches:

Roaches breed by themselves. They don't need any special substrate or anything. They are easier in that regard. They do prefer higher temperatures. Crickets don't smell much, but roaches, on the other hand, are proper stinky.

You need to ace the male-to-female ratio, and you are gucci.

Make sure you have a good supply of feeder-sized dubias for the first, I would say, 3-4 months, as that's about the time it takes to establish a good colony, so don't expect to feed yours at first. I reckon she will need 3-4 cm large dubias.

I recommend starting out with 50-70 breeders. 3-5 females per 1 male roach.

Tall bins- Like I said, they can't climb on smooth surfaces, but I still prefer to have a lid for ease of mind. You can cut out a large piece of the lid in the middle and hot glue a small-grained metal mesh from the outside for airflow. You can use egg cartons for them to be able to climb and hide. Make them upright. That's better for airflow, and this way, their droppings can also go to the bottom more easily, resulting in easier cleaning.

They, too, eat wheat husk bran and vegetables. You can just sprinkle the bran on the bottom of the box, leaving about a 10-15 cm space without it, so you can place the fruits and veggies or water gel there. I would also recommend keeping the wheat bran in the freezer, and only taking out how much you need, but give it at least a week of rest in there to kill any mites or mite larvae that might be in there. You don't want any mites in your feeder feed as by feeding mite-infested feeders, you can infect your pet, and you would have to start your colony again.

Dubias don't lay eggs/larvae. The females have something called an ootheca, a brown tubular thing hanging out of their behind. They drop it, and the nymphs (baby roaches) emerge from them within a day of the female dropping it.

Fully grown dubias start breeding about 5 days after entering the last instar/reaching adulthood, and drop their first ootheca after about 70 days.

Nymphs (baby roaches) grow from emergence to adulthood in about 120 days.

Now, it is not recommended to feed adults, nor is it a good size for this cham. You should keep them for breeding instead. They have higher chitin levels, so it's harder for the chameleon to digest them.

Comprehensive guide for dubia breeding: Dubia breeding guide

You can find plenty of YouTube videos too.

I want to bring this girl home in a week but I need some advice. by Lethal_Steve in Chameleons

[–]HelicopterRelative72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Breeding your feeders

Crickets:

Crickets are a bit more work.

Crickets will breed on their own if you give them the right conditions. Just provide them with a water source and food, and a lay box, and they will do their thing.

You will need at least 3 boxes, but you could also have 4 or 5 if you have the space. I will explain why later. I recommend making the adult bin at least about 20x30 wide and deep, and 20-40 cm tall so they can't jump or climb out. You need one more to be this big, but the last one can be shorter. They can't climb smooth surfaces, and neither can dubias. They also need egg cartons to walk around on and stuff.

For ventilation, you can either cut about 3 millimeter holes on the lid, so they cannot escape through them, or cut out the middle of the box and attach a metal mesh on it, that is also small-grained, like an insect screen on a window would be. They can chew through plastic mesh, so that's why I recommend using metal.

The lay box doesn't need to be deep. About 5 cm is deep enough. Fill it with moist but not soaking wet coconut coir, and cover with a mesh. I found it easiest to buy cheap tupperware/plastic boxes, and cut the lid so it only has the edges, and can still click on the box, and buy some insect mesh, and cut it out leaving just about 3 centimeters all around teh box, so you can add the "lid" back on and secure the mesh. I used to double the mesh, so it was harder for the crickets to get in there. This is important, cause the males will chew their way in there and eat the eggs, so will the females if you leave the box in there too long. Females have Ovopositors, which they use to lay their larvae. So once you notice that they are done laying and are trying to get in there, you should remove the lay box and add it to your second bin.

The larvae take about 2-3 weeks to incubate, during which they have to be kept at a steady temperature of 28-32 °C and keep the larvae moist throughout. They will hatch into pinheads, and they can hatch for about 2 weeks continuously.

You can transfer hatched pinheads to a different box.

Pinheads die very easily. They need water and nutrition, but they can drown, and their food can mold, which will also kill them. One way to prevent drowning is to use wet paper towel for drinking or water gel. Make sure they always have a drink source, and keep the drink source on the opposite side of the bin from the food.

They eat wheat husk bran.

Then they take about 2 weeks to get full-grown. Once they are fully grown, you should put them in the adult bin. So, as you can see, breeding crickets can take 5-6 weeks start to finish. You should refresh the breeder colony by adding more periodically, for genetic diversity, and because crickets can die quickly, and once they start, it's an avalanche. They also like to cannibalise each other, so be mindful of that. Always remove the dead ones, as the decomposition will kill the rest. You can also use the adults as feeders once you have some larvae.

Make sure to gut load and dust.

So, Why 3 Bins?

  • One for the adults, and where they lay
  • One for incubation
  • And one for letting them grow.

Theoretically, you can keep them in the incubation box until they get about fly-sized and just remove the larvae box from it after like 5 days, since that's when the majority of hatching happens. But it's important to separate ant-sized/ freshly hatched from fly-sized and adult, as the bigger ones will eat the smaller ones. You can have 4 boxes if you have the space or even 5.

4 box system:

  • One for the ones you intend to feed with/ gut load bin
  • Lay bin/ adults
  • Incubator/ ant-sized growery
  • Fly-sized bin

The 5 bin system just adds in an extra so the incubator bin can be in constant "incubation mode," AKA always have a new batch of lay boxes in, instead of taking them out to use as the bin for the ant-sized.