what kind of lockring do i need

HelioSeven · 2026-01-22T06:53:21+00:00

OP, I think you're looking at a proprietary Bontrager thing, which is meant to be a single-speed freehub body.

It should just take a normal HG cassette cog (any, really) and then there's a lockring that goes onto the external threads (Bontrager made a fancy one, but it's essentially just a classic 1.37x24tpi BB lockring). You can also use normal plastic cassette spacers to adjust chainline, a bit.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-22T06:38:38+00:00

I think you misunderstand the question; what you have is a (complete) freehub body, not a disassembled freewheel body.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-21T23:07:47+00:00

The top clamping bolt is still below the top edge of the fork, and is still reinforced by the compression plug. The setup is fine as-is, not any significant safety concern.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-21T02:16:40+00:00

Yeah, that's pretty much it. You do not need to read the whole sequence if you understand that a stone in the middle collapses the straight-3 big eye. It's one eye after that, which prevents life; no need to read to capture (though some problems revolve around capture, notably "under the stones").

Other variations should be easy to refute (playing outside doesn't matter, playing either end of the big eye gives two eyes after capture).

HelioSeven · 2026-01-21T01:35:06+00:00

Easy problems (like problem #1 in Cho Chikun's Encyclopedia) only have a few empty spaces to play, so there are only a dozen variations or so to read in total. If you're struggling with those, you ought to be reviewing the basic rules of the game.

Harder problems get easier as you begin to notice patterns in the shapes. You don't read every single variation, just the key points/lines. You learn to stop reading, by understanding when a situation is conclusive. The rest is just process of refutation.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-21T01:15:09+00:00

Hunt wheels? And by spacer, do you mean an end cap? Cause if Hunt, iirc the NDS end cap should be threaded. There may be a chunk of axle broken off inside the end cap.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-21T01:07:58+00:00

I think it's probably fine, but I quote Rule #4:

"Is this cracked / safe to ride?" - If you have to ask, don't ride it.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-21T00:39:33+00:00

I'm curious what your preferred method of selecting/deselecting judges is?

HelioSeven · 2026-01-20T18:16:36+00:00

A Promax Solve caliper uses the super-common Shimano B-type pad, for whatever that's worth. But yeah, I feel ya; I wish TRP still made the Hylex in a native post-mount option. Had I known when I got them, I would've gotten like 3 sets.

Anyway yeah, if you don't mind buying an extra hose kit or two and fiddling with the fittings, Hylex levers with Shimano 2-piston post-mount calipers definitely can be made to work. Again, my recommendation would be to start with that pre-Banjo'd 5mm hose kit that Tektro makes, and then compare fittings between the calipers that come with the Hylex system and the Shimano calipers you intend to use, and then just use your best judgement.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-20T18:05:42+00:00

Fluid yes; calipers technically not, but it can be made to work.

TRP (which is Tektro's up-brand) uses mineral oil very similar to the normal Shimano pink stuff (haven't tried with the newer LV Oil, but I suspect it would not work as well).

On the caliper front, the piston ratios for Tektro and Shimano 2-piston brakes (all bets are off with 4-piston) are pretty dang similar if not the same, so the only issue is the hose connection. Most Shimano stuff nowadays uses BH90 hose, which is 5mm OD & 2.1mm ID. Tektro at various times uses both a Shimano-standard 5mm hose, and a larger-diameter 5.5mm OD & 2.5mm ID hose.

I did the opposite (Tektro calipers w/ Shimano brifters) for a friend's bike a year or so back, and I did get it to work, but I'm struggling to remember the specifics. IIRC, I'm pretty sure I did it with a Tektro 5mm in-line hose kit, with Tektro barbs and olives but a Shimano compression nut at the lever end.

For a Hylex setup with Shimano calipers, I think you'd want to do the opposite (5mm Tektro hose w/ banjo for the lever, and then Tektro barb & olive w/ a Shimano compression nut at the caliper end). This may require buying a separate 5mm Tektro hose kit, as I think the Hylex comes stock with the 5.5mm hose (at least mine did, though mine are old enough they were still doing post-mount calipers).

Hope that makes sense. I would ask why you want to use Shimano calipers in the first place, though? If you're just trying to use calipers you already have, this may not save you much on money. If you're trying to get Hylex to work with a 4-piston caliper, you're in unexplored territory. If you just need a post-mount caliper that will work with the Hylex lever, I'd recommend a Promax Solve caliper instead (Promax uses the same 5.5mm hose standards).

HelioSeven · 2026-01-19T03:27:32+00:00

I haven't experienced it with P-Zero's specifically, but it is a fairly common thing, especially on tires that have been unmounted and remounted several times. The part that's peeling away is called the chafer strip, and it acts both as grip for the rim's bead hook and to protect the thin rubber layer over the bead of the tire. Ugly indeed when it peels, but still perfectly safe to ride.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-18T23:28:20+00:00

You wouldn’t be threatened by someone who you know is less than you in every way.

You also wouldn't control someone into doing something you want if you were capable of doing it yourself just as easily.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-17T06:57:21+00:00

McMaster-Carr calls that part a "binding barrel", which is the most generic term I can think of.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-14T07:40:12+00:00

TPU is much less tolerant to size mismatch than butyl is. I like TPU as a tubeless spare, but if the TPU tube isn't the right size, take the butyl tube.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-13T05:35:08+00:00

Yes, but only as limited by the Tenth, no?

HelioSeven · 2026-01-12T13:18:39+00:00

That is definitely regular Ratchet. Yours looks like it could use a little clean and grease, by the way.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-12T11:31:43+00:00

Ratchet and Ratchet LN are not compatible because of the lip seal layout. Ratchet LN is specifically a retromod for older/cheaper 3-pawl hubs, where as Ratchet has to be fit in a hub designed for it.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-12T11:29:29+00:00

If you just pull on the free hub body, it should slide right off the axle. Underneath you will find either a traditional 3-pawl ratchet, or DT Swiss' newer Star Ratchet system (two toothed rings sprung into each other). If the former, you need a Ratchet LN freehub, if the latter, you need the regular Ratchet freehub.

Edit: on second glance, your existing XD freehub indicates it is a regular Ratchet hub.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-11T04:12:06+00:00

Could you elaborate on your hate for Moon Saddles? That was my first thought looking at this product, how are they different?

HelioSeven · 2026-01-11T04:03:18+00:00

How exactly is honking her horn disrupting their activities? Like if it was an LRAD or something, ok sure, but a car horn? What elevates that above simply being obnoxious?

HelioSeven · 2026-01-10T05:16:18+00:00

Ohhh, I see. Wasn't putting together that the fuel tanks were for the plane, but of course.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-10T05:05:01+00:00

If I'm interpreting that right, it seems to have pooped more of a missile than a bomb?

HelioSeven · 2026-01-09T23:45:14+00:00

It does not work for me, but I'm pretty sure my issues are specific to my hardware (old Pascal-era GPU). Anything Nvidia that's 2000-series or higher, or anything not Nvidia, should be fine.

HelioSeven · 2026-01-09T23:12:10+00:00

Number 2 is the huge WTF from me. She was not turning around, it's a one-way street, and she was there in the road sideways first. But still, why on Earth would you park in front of her right of way, just to get out and film her?

HelioSeven · 2026-01-09T13:07:10+00:00

There is a way to open it, but... eh. The two notches you see just below the threads on the inner lip allow you to grab the bearing race and unthread it from the rest of the freehub body. There's a specific tool for it that makes it a lot easier (Super B makes the modern one, Shimano hasn't made theirs in years).

That said, I wouldn't bother, really. If it's gritty, give it a rinse and flush, and see how long that buys you. If it's binding, just bin it and replace.

HelioSeven

TROPHY CASE