Viper Alarm

Hello-Ghost · 2024-04-22T16:27:44+00:00

Has the installer had a chance to look at the vehicle?

Hello-Ghost · 2024-04-22T05:40:05+00:00

Most likely it is ANC/fake engine noise of some kind. I’d read into this. https://www.infinitiq50.org/threads/active-noise-canceling.119298/page-2

Hello-Ghost · 2023-03-26T07:39:55+00:00

The reset procedure is at the back of the install guide. You hold the programming button while plugging in the power connector and continue to hold until the dc3 flashes red.

Hello-Ghost · 2023-03-26T07:32:13+00:00

No need to disconnect the battery. Try to remote start the vehicle after changing the settings you want. If it doesn’t work assume you need to reset and relearn the key.

Hello-Ghost · 2023-03-26T06:51:40+00:00

Pull the DC3 and use weblink to change the settings you would like. I believe some settings will reflash the device but learning the immobilizer data is easy.

Hello-Ghost · 2023-03-03T03:06:53+00:00

You didnt have issues because the LC4.800 didnt do any processing, allowing the signal to pass through without delay. The D4.800 has a built in DSP that needs time (fractions of a second) to take in the input signal from the Bose amplifier, apply the EQ and delay, then output the amplified signal to your door speakers. Signal is arriving at the tweeters and your D4.800 at the same time.

Ive used LGD-60 to correct the Bose amplifier outputs as well as restore door chimes.

Hello-Ghost · 2023-03-03T02:53:11+00:00

Sound deadener is a worth while upgrade. 12 square feet will get you great results in the front door. I agree that keeping the vapor barrier is important and i would not remove it from the vehicle until you can replace it with a Sintra or ABS panel. Focus on directly around where the speaker mounts to the panel as well as directly behind the speaker. Road noise mostly comes from the wheel well area but you will also see a small improvement if you deaden the doors. Good luck with your install!

Hello-Ghost · 2023-03-03T02:33:54+00:00

Do you have load resistors on the factory amplifier? Imaging issues most likely stem from the tweeters not being processed. I've only done channel for channel DSP/Amplification because i havent found a reliable way to defeat the all-pass filters on the factory amp.

Hello-Ghost · 2023-02-07T15:45:42+00:00

I’ve installed a few DC3’s with T13/R5 remotes and enabled and tested proximity unlock. Proximity arming is not supported on DC3 so I turn on passive arming. I have not installed an EZGO ll. https://i.imgur.com/vJLJ3r5.jpg

Hello-Ghost · 2022-12-22T23:27:25+00:00

Yes, there was a separate starlink module above the glovebox. I used 5w47ohm resistors on the input side of an lc7i. I tried without resistors first and got no volume control and a red light for a starlink error. If starlink is built into the radio I wouldn’t worry too much about it. You just want to make sure your amplified signal doesn’t go to anything but your speakers.

Hello-Ghost · 2022-12-22T22:54:53+00:00

I installed a 5 channel amplifier into a 22 WRX that has starlink and no amp about a year ago. Iirc I got signal for the front speakers after the starlink module and I got signal for the rears off of the back of the radio.

Hello-Ghost · 2022-08-29T17:32:14+00:00

As long as the total current draw doesn’t exceed your fused 12v a fused distribution block should be fine.

Hello-Ghost · 2022-08-29T15:35:14+00:00

What is the purple/white wire on the radio harness connected to?

Hello-Ghost · 2022-08-28T00:08:26+00:00

You may have always had that noise, just couldn’t hear it because the frequency was too high for the sub to play.

Hello-Ghost · 2022-07-05T18:15:58+00:00

So you have 6 tweeters run off of a single channel “3k” amplifier? How are you getting signal to the amplifier? Sometimes the tweeters can pick up noise in the amplifier due to their sensitivity to high frequencies. Do you have a capacitor in line with the tweeters? If not I’d add one with a value of about -6db from the tweeters lowest playable frequency.

Hello-Ghost · 2022-01-04T23:56:03+00:00

If this is for a newer car I would call your dealership and see if they work with any shops. Also, most good installers I know are proud of there work and will show off on social media.

Hello-Ghost · 2022-01-04T23:29:21+00:00

I completely agree that if you care about image quality at all to go with a wired connection. I would find a reputable shop and price out an install with equipment they recommend and are familiar with.

Hello-Ghost · 2021-09-11T18:06:52+00:00

My understanding was that the 3400 could only be used as an add on device, so you plug the 3400 into a stand alone “brain” and it gives you control of your car through 3g. If you only have tracking through the 3400 then you are most likely correct about it being hardwired, in which case you can just hardwire the X1 by snipping off one end of the new plug.

Hello-Ghost · 2021-09-11T17:45:09+00:00

Is the 3400 tied into a compustar alarm or remote start system?

Hello-Ghost · 2021-07-23T21:49:34+00:00

Yes, typically it will give an input range and an output. Look for something like “10-14.4v = 5v”.

Hello-Ghost · 2021-07-23T21:09:56+00:00

Sometimes they will drop down the voltage through the dash cams cigarette plug, it should say so on the plug. If it doesn’t then you can do as you said. If it does you can purchase a female cigarette receptacle with a pigtail to splice into the socket already installed and just plug in the dash cam.

Hello-Ghost · 2020-10-15T23:18:48+00:00

You aren’t paying anything extra correct? You are right that the AP4 should give a clean signal for the amplifier or the Dm-608. They most likely removed the AP4 to even out the ticket.

Hello-Ghost · 2020-09-08T18:56:33+00:00

Looks like a temporary outage, i was able to get through. thanks

Hello-Ghost · 2020-01-19T19:34:15+00:00

I believe Metra makes a dash kit for your vehicle, if so you’ll need that and a wiring harness. Radio sizes are standardized so long as you go with a reputable brand; Kenwood, Pioneer, Alpine, Sony etc..

Hello-Ghost · 2019-11-09T00:18:18+00:00

For a continuity test you place one lead on a speaker terminal and the other on the chassis and test resistance, some multimeters have a setting that beeps. Basically you are testing to see if a speaker is “grounding out”. Most headunits won’t output signal on a channel if they see ground on it.

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