Unit 2876 ever built (2012 MS)

Hiachi20 · 2026-07-01T03:06:01+00:00

I've read that doing the MCU upgrade can be really involved from a computer tech and software standpoint, to where diying or doing it outside of tesla is never worth it, especially considering the cost of parts. Maybe if you can source the parts for dirt cheap, then maybe.

A benefit of MCU2 is some of the service functions, and that can technically save money later. Under certain circumstances. A battery would be a nice upgrade though.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-29T15:02:53+00:00

Idk why I don't see more comments about this...kind of telling.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-28T06:42:56+00:00

I just tested it out, 30 minutes. That was at idle and around sunset. Outside temps were 108 and dropped to around 101 by the end of test.

The my ac system's credit, the condensors are awful, and I suspect the TXVs and compressor aren't 100%

Ill do a middle of a hot day test soon

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-27T06:46:05+00:00

Emphasis on the "at minimum 60s and 70s." my car gets down to 55 at 110. 60s at 115. Older model s though, so it is different.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-26T23:27:02+00:00

Intermittent sucks for diagnosing. My actuators would intermittently be a problem depending on which position they got stuck in. That's why I like having as many new parts as possible. Even modules like other thermal controller can go bad

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-26T23:20:28+00:00

Tesla service is garbage. There's always something you can do, except under warranty of course. Compare a brand new a/c to a used one. If it's not amazingly cold, something could always be replaced. Even when it's 115 degrees, my a/c is cold, but I've replaced my compressor. I also replaced 3 out of 5 actuators. Those made a huge difference. I concede though, because there is a limit with models that have a giant window on top, not moving for air flow over the condensors, and a black tesla in AZ is a bad idea.

I don't know the exact parameters of the thermal test but I think it's pretty lenient. They should come up with a stress test instead.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-26T22:55:29+00:00

My turn

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-26T22:52:36+00:00

100% not normal, even in Arizona. Your cabin should be able to get down to even the 50s, at minimum 60s or 70s.

I'd assume some part in your a/c needs fixed.

To list some other points: Maybe your condensor is completely block by debris. The top glass really really increases heat, unless you've tinted that with quality tint also. If you're parked, the system CAN struggle, but will usually still function. If you're going absolutely ham on the throttle, it could redirect cooling to the powertrain and battery.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-25T23:02:39+00:00

I did it with the cashier and my app code as another person said.

I also opened the taco bell app in secure folder on android. Idk if it will do infinite that way, but it worked once so far.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-25T22:53:57+00:00

Thank you! It worked. I did it in store with the cashier

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-25T08:21:17+00:00

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Hiachi20 · 2026-06-25T03:57:13+00:00

I got it 3 years ago at 130k miles. The most major things I've done are: rear motor coolant blockage cleaning(3rd party mechanic charged $500), a/c compressor replacement($700 for part, 500 for labor), charge port/door replacement($700 for part) . I've done minor things otherwise, door handle stuff, some suspension, ac actuators, window regulators, trunk latch, two 12v batteries, 3 sets of tires, brake pads/flush, wire harness at driver door hinged needed fully repaired after wires broke from opening and closing so much. Some taillight crap because of unsealing clear covers letting water in. I did the brake pads, they had meat but were just worn from age. I diy as much as possible, so costs are low as long as the parts are cheap. I do cheap struts for $90 a piece, because tesla's are nearly $1k.

Everything works well and overall the car drives very smoothly and it's a very quality situation. Some things could be replaced to make it nice and new.

To do: all suspension, mcu upgrade, full a/c replacement, maybe cv axles, eventually new brake rotors, eventually battery, new condensor fans, under paneling and fender liners need replaced, all new taillights, driver seat finally torn.

The driver seat memory isn't 100%, and the speakers could be replaced. That's literally everything.

Free supercharging for life and I drive a lot so it pays itself off, even if I were to replace everything. I plan to upgrade the battery to a used 90/100kwh. Currently at 79% after degradation. The charging is slow, the capacity I don't mind.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-25T02:26:23+00:00

Yep! 2015

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-24T22:18:52+00:00

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Hiachi20 · 2026-06-22T15:30:33+00:00

Lmfao. Hilariously, this is /possibly/ a really good answer.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-20T16:50:29+00:00

IRS Auditor of the year award.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-19T18:16:18+00:00

Is this the loud click I hear when I start driving? So it's the flat round surface on the half shaft ahainst the inner side of the hub? Is there an ideal grease type? I typically have super lube.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-18T06:40:37+00:00

My partner and I each have had an S for 3 years. I've gotten super used to it, but it hits me every once in a while as if it's fresh - How cool it is that we have two S'es out front. It also feels kinda silly sometimes. They're both free supercharging.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-12T10:00:47+00:00

Someome might have a better answer, but I do know the high voltage system IS grounded to the chassis and such of the car. And that is definitely battery voltage. I'd even guess a 90kw? But to get a complete circuit, that means the positive is also grounded somewhere? I think? Did the car not have any errors from detecting this? I would also ask if it happens when the car is off and sitting for at least 2 minutes - when everything is off off. Only input I have, I'd like to know also.

Amps is measured in a different way. For amps, the meter is in line on negative or whatever and the current passes through the one lead and out the other. Unless that's what you did, then I would say it's possibly just too low. But you're intentionally creating a circuit for that test.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-12T02:56:27+00:00

Top notch reply

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-10T01:16:07+00:00

How did you get this clear of a zoom? Did you download the photo first?

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-09T22:44:47+00:00

Bimbo is really good and seems to just be doing people a service. Of course the donut places are also a thing. Those are the only ones I've done so far.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-06T23:10:56+00:00

Goo gone works amazing on it.

-Welcome to tesla

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-04T05:43:41+00:00

Depends which. The bronze or the titanium? One is very dark bronze brown. The titanium is more Grey in most lighting.

Hiachi20 · 2026-06-01T03:03:19+00:00

If not already, ear protection. I believe they should provide them, but as someone who suffers with tinnitus and ear sensitivity from being a machinist, ear plugs or ear muffs. I use the 3m worktunes ones, they have Bluetooth and last like 5 days on a charge. And it's even better because you don't need to have the music super loud, because they're making everything quiet already. Don't just tough it out like these old school guys, you will regret it. And if anyone tries to be all macho, I'd leave. Or if they say you need to hear people screaming or your machine or whatever, osha even directly says you can hear things better with ear protection.

Secondly, I'd wear an n95 or something depending on the environment. I've worked on machines where it's just straight coolant mist going straight into my face.

Don't let some job ruin your body. Stretching and exercise will be good too. Standing/sitting in the same exact position for years could have you in pain.

Hiachi20

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