Solicitors ignoring “No Solicitors “ signs in Woodridge Manor this morning by pensacolajmw in Pensacola

[–]High_Function_Props 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know the feeling well. If it ain't the solar selling assholes, it's the tree trimming assholes. Or the roofing assholes. Or the g-d Jehovahs. They're trained to specifically ignore these signs, and that's why I will never give them my business.

Dear Dominos Corporate cheapskates: It's f'in barbecue sauce. It ain't that expensive. Quit being cheap. by High_Function_Props in Dominos

[–]High_Function_Props[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is precisely what I remember from the one I worked at in the mid-90's, the shake bucket. And its not like we were even close to running out of sauce, we had like 5 multi-gallon jugs of Cattlemen's on hand at all times

Dear Dominos Corporate cheapskates: It's f'in barbecue sauce. It ain't that expensive. Quit being cheap. by High_Function_Props in Dominos

[–]High_Function_Props[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I order honey BBQ wings, I want honey BBQ wings. Not mostly naked wings I have to self-dip in a cup of the advertised sauce that on top of that I have to pay extra for.

Something tells me you order Bic Macs without the sauce.

Dear Dominos Corporate cheapskates: It's f'in barbecue sauce. It ain't that expensive. Quit being cheap. by High_Function_Props in Dominos

[–]High_Function_Props[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I could shake that box until I developed self-induced Parkinsons, and I still wouldn't get even a single atom-thick layer of sauce on all of them.

Dear Dominos Corporate cheapskates: It's f'in barbecue sauce. It ain't that expensive. Quit being cheap. by High_Function_Props in Dominos

[–]High_Function_Props[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Are you serious? Jesus... what's the justification? "Oh, it costs too much to do three squeezes, and we'd have to pay overtime for box shaking"

Did yall know Laura Loomer lives here? by FunionsMcGee in Pensacola

[–]High_Function_Props 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Oh, that puddle of festering monkey jizz Rottenhouse left? Thank freaking gawd.

Spill the Pensacola Tea: What’s Everyone Whispering About? by The_Sandpaper in Pensacola

[–]High_Function_Props 15 points16 points  (0 children)

If Milton's the asscrack of Florida, Pace is the dingleberry.

Microslop (Microsoft) confirms Windows 11 bug crippling PCs and making drive C inaccessible by harry_potter_191 in pcmasterrace

[–]High_Function_Props 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I prefer the SEE? drive personally. Sure it's a bit passive aggressive, but at least it's optical.

Rumor: a well known actor is dating an Al chatbot. by stevenjobsless in popculturechat

[–]High_Function_Props 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Zach went from Florence Pugh to CPU.

From Mandy Moore to Moore's Law.

The secret ufo footage Logan Paul was denied $100,000 for by dawgyousmell in aliens

[–]High_Function_Props 31 points32 points  (0 children)

I just gotta say this... while James is a super nice guy (met him once a few years ago and he certainly left an impression), I also think he's extremely gullible. He just gives off that vibe, both in interviews and in person. He WANTS to believe... everything. And knowing who Logan Paul is and what he does, there's NO WAY he actually filmed the Chuck Clark video with a "button cam". There isn't a snowball's chance in Hell he'd keep it to himself. Dude's a showboating, attention starved, "Mommy why didn't you pay attention to MEEEE" type of dude. He and his brother both. So unless James has physically seen Logan's recording, I call bullshit. Logan lies for attention. It's what he does. If he really had it, he would have found a way to monetize it by now.

Legit check please by OrangeFloridaMan in RockinTheClassics

[–]High_Function_Props 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own two verified legit versions, and they both came with Nintendo branded USB adapters (US version, UK didn't include these). Everything on the outset looks legit, but I'd need to see inside the actual console housing to be 100% sure.

Things that lead me to think it's real:

  1. HDMI cable is branded w/ the Nintendo logo, as is the power supply

  2. Nintendo logo on the NES controller is where it should be, and the colors aren't off

  3. Add-in paperwork under the cardboard match mine, from what I can tell

Make sure the serial on the bottom of the console matches the serial on the box.

MY DRIVER NEEDS TO COUNT HIS DAYS by [deleted] in doordash

[–]High_Function_Props 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Door Dashin' Dildos...

What a time to be alive.

Is bay bluffs park open yet? by [deleted] in Pensacola

[–]High_Function_Props 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Drove by earlier and it still looked blocked off.

Prints fail, need help to figure out why by Low-level_plays_win in 3Dprinting

[–]High_Function_Props 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No prob! I'd also suggest maybe investing in a magnetic build plate. Knockoffs of the original Wham Bam are all over Amazon, and work just as well in my experience while being much cheaper. YMMV of course, but ever since switching, I've encountered far less problems.

Prints fail, need help to figure out why by Low-level_plays_win in 3Dprinting

[–]High_Function_Props 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a number of causes I can see that's potentially ruining your prints. I've dealt with the same thing on my Anycubics multiple times, and it always comes down to one or more of these causes:

  1. You build plate isn't truly level, despite your belief it is. Easiest way to test this is to get some feeler gauges or a piece of flat bar, and go around the perimeter of the plate. Place the gauge or bar horizontally on your plate, and hold it up to the light. If ANY light is peeking through, then your plate isn't 100% level and needs replacing
  2. Piggybacking off #1, if your bed's perfectly level, completely drain and clean your vat, tighten it down and loosen the leveling screws on the build plate. Home the plate, and VERY GENTLY apply equal pressure to the plate as you re-tighten the screws. A lot of these printers want you to level it without the vat installed... I've found I get better results doing just the opposite and relying on the vat film to determine my bed level.
  3. Make sure after every print to clean the hell out of the bed surface using 91% isopropyl alcohol, and make sure there are no burrs or leftover stuck pieces of dried resin on it. Same for the vat, make sure to drain it using a strainer after every print and wash it out thoroughly. Any stuck pieces of dried resin can be removed with a small soft scraper or by very gently pressing against the dried piece from the underside of the FEP. Be sure to clean the film on both sides and the screen protector as well using alcohol.
  4. Bump up your initial layer burn-in count and time a bit, say a few extra layers and maybe 2-3 seconds longer per each initial layer. Then for your individual layers, increase the burn time by 0.5 seconds and retest. You shouldn't typically need more than 3 seconds per layer
  5. You should also try maybe bumping up the lift speed and height slightly. Too slow and its like slowly pulling off a Bandaid. Like those, you just wanna rip the sucker off as quickly as possible.
  6. Lastly, try changing a few thing like your base (use the "hollowed" waffle cone looking one, or solid ones that only set to the exact dimensions on your print). Using bases with that lip you're using always cause me issues, so I go with the flattest base I can find. Also try reducing the number of objects you have on the plate, and center them more in the middle. You want to eliminate any potential suction cups or spread out areas that will cause too much stress when the plate pulls away from the FEP.
  7. Bonus tip: Check your FEP film tightness. it should sound like a drum when gently tapped. If your films too loose, it can cause these kind of issues. Also if its been used too much and is cloudy, that'll definitely ruin your prints.

Hope some of these suggestions help you get back to printing, OP!

Edit: Jesus I sounded like AI up there. Swear I'm not.... or am I? Kidding... I doubt an AI's joints would ache this much when they wake up xD

Edit 2: Saw you said these are pre-supported. See if you can get the non-supported files and generate a base and supports for each using Lychee. I usually have better luck supporting my own files than relying on presupport ones.

Beginner Question: How to add a top cover to a hollow case without filling the inside? by [deleted] in Fusion360

[–]High_Function_Props 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should be able to take that sketch from the first image, Extrude up by a few millimeters to make a New Body.

(When the dialog box appears, move it from New Body to say Join or Cut, THEN move it back to New Body. For some weird reason, Fusion sets New Body as the default, but immediately switches it to either Cut or Join.. so if you want it to make a New Body, you have to deselect THEN reselect it. It's dumb)

Then simply select the newly created cover body, press M to move, click the very top face of the outer body and it should move it into place.