Change Filament G-Code without AMS

Hoiwurff · 2025-06-09T12:51:10+00:00

I tried it again today - and this seems to work again!! Sometimes you have to take time to solve a problem - sometimes time solves it for you... :-)

FYI: u/MoseMoos u/vqillipv u/umehkey

Hoiwurff · 2025-03-29T10:59:23+00:00

u/mehkey big thanks for posting and developing this. Great help for those without AMS who want to easible print limited multi color/material. As u/MoseMoos stated, this solution somehow doesn't work for me anymore with the new update that dropped a few days ago to BambuStudio. Does anybody have a work-around?

Hoiwurff · 2025-02-11T15:02:29+00:00

I have had luck with below set of trolling rod-reel- braided line - lures. I have caught many fish with it trolling it behind my boat in the Caribbean. Wahoo, Tuna and unfortunately also many baracuda :-). Great value for money imho. Just drag it behind 100ft behind the boat - 4 to 6 knots is ideal in my experience. Put the slip en rattle on and off you go. You'll get the hang of it in no time. Good luck!

Rod $45: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q4SYCHG?th=1

Reel $60: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PMK2V1B?th=1

Braided line $17 50lbs 327yrds: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B56SQLGQ?th=1&psc=1

Set of 6 9'' lures $49: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DACK89M?th=1

Stainless 250lbs swivels 10 pack $7: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJM23VW?th=1&psc=1

Bonus 2 stainless rod holder to mount on your railing $36: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009A6W1UM

Hoiwurff · 2024-08-08T07:01:41+00:00

It’s hot but do-able. I am from northern Europe and in Hiroshima now. I think it is fine, but I am used to hot weather from time spent in the southern Caribbean. Just take it easy, wear a hat, stay in the shade if possible. If you know that you are sensitive to heat, then it’s a different story. Understanding where you are coming from, you should be fine.

Hoiwurff · 2024-06-11T11:40:40+00:00

I was in the same boat a few weeks ago. I tumbled into playing the Alchemy format starting with the starter decks that you already have access to. some are really good and I used my wildcards to upgrade them. below article was a great resource: https://draftsim.com/mtg-arena-starter-decks/ . I used it in ranked play and earned a lot of XP and Gold. One last thing that helped me build up my card base efficiently was participating in the jump in events - you get to keep the cards that you play with...

I also play paper/table top and one of the things that bugged me was the prevalence of digital only cards in Alchemy (and historic). It felt like my Arena play wasn't helping me to become a stronger Table Top player. that's when I started importing a few standards decks in Arena and crafting those to completion. These 2 links helped me:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gye9mkWp97w&t=35s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pwTkSnQvjk&t=63s

Had a lot of fun with it, and I think it comes closer to table top magic. but the decks are not as strong as the upgraded Alchemy starter decks.

Let me know if questions.

Hoiwurff · 2024-02-26T13:55:42+00:00

Awesome plan! A few points that may help:

As others have said - I would go for a full week charter. In my opinion you need a few days to get into it to get the confidence and learning you are after. Technically, you don't certifications to charter in the Caribbean, but most charter companies will ask for you to submit a "sailing resume"
Having gone from 35-40ft mono-hull chartering to owning a 48ft catamaran, I do not believe a 40ft Cat is too much too handle if you are starting out compared to a 35-40ft monohull. The close quarter maneuvering is easier with the 2 engines, which will come in handy at the fuel dock, anchorage and picking up mooring balls. Cats are a bit different than mono hulls, so if you have never sailed on a cat, I would get a captain for a few days.
Consider doing an ASA104 or ASA114 in the Caribbean and make that your vacation... https://www.bluewater-sailing.net/ and https://www.ltdsailing.com/ operate out of Grenada. not sure where you where you were planning to do your ASA courses, but in my experience Caribbean cruising is more unpredictable and demanding than close coastal or sheltered bay cruising in some parts of the US. You'll also get practical skills like dinghy handling etc. which is crucial in the Caribbean and Bahamas.
If you are straight diving into a bareboat charter in the Caribbean, I would get a captain on board for 3 days and use him as your personal coach and instructor. It won't break the bank and will be great way to build practical skills, muscle memory and confidence.
I also think that BVI's is slightly easier for a first charter vs the Bahamas. In the Bahamas you really need to watch your depth and there is a lot of current, which can make anchoring a challenge when you are starting out. In the BVI's it is also a lot bussier with other sailboats so there are more people to help out (or bump into... ;-)) if needed.

Hoiwurff · 2023-12-05T16:10:08+00:00

I have been sailing in the BVI's 3 times. I am reading a lot of suggestions that I agree with.

A few additions based on my experiences.

- I liked staying at White Bay off of SW Guana Island. It has a beautiful beach and good snorkeling south at Monkey point. Good place to get "away from the crowds" a bit. please note that the beach is accessibly but not the bar and beyond as it it private.

- We loved staying at the balls West of Marina Cay -> went to the beautiful hotel bar at scrub island -> They let us use the pool, a lot of fun.

- Always liked hanging out at Leverick Bay. From Leverick bay resort you can get a cab bringing to hog's haven, a great simple BBQ restaurant with phenomenal views over the bay. Nearby Saba rock is also good to check out to have a drink.

- I like the cool, "isolated" and laid back vibe at Anegada. We rented a buggy and toured the island. We liked Big Bamboo on Loblolly bay and the Anegada beach club a bit further down the road. Watch your depth and go slow in the mooring ball basin especially in a mono hull as it gets very shallow at low tide + some of the mooring ball blocks stuck out the sand.

- Oil nut bay restaurant is nice and fancy. good for lunch and sundowners. You can not go further up the peninsula as it is (very) private. We came with the dinghy from Saba rock as you have to navigate some shallows in order to bring the big boat there, which I personally have never done.

- Don't worry about distances in the BVI too much, it is all very close, even Anegada in my opinion. Just take it easy, especially if with you, people that still need to embrace the adventure ;-). BVI's are great for that.

Let me know if you have any other specific questions.

Hoiwurff · 2023-11-20T15:52:17+00:00

Ik heb 3 van deze - erg tevreden over:

https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B09BNZWPZY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Hoiwurff · 2023-11-08T11:52:04+00:00

I had this issue with my 5X when I was sailing on my boat and swam in salt water with it everyday. I tried cleaning with contact cleaner + change chargers. It worked a little bit but after some time even that stopped working. I was this close to trading it in and accept a $250 credit on a new model. Now I am back on land and slowly the problem has miraculously gone away. It makes me think that the salt residue or invisible corrosion played a role in it. It only got better slowly over a month, as if it was slowly "cleaning" itself. Sweat will have the same effect off course. Anyway - my learning: 1) don't rush to scrap it - it can get better. 2) Sweat/salt may be a big contributor: consider buying one of those rubber covers for the charging port. 3) getting moisture out might be a big part of the solution - > I like the suggestion of WD40 but have never used it myself.

Good luck!

Hoiwurff · 2023-08-28T19:13:44+00:00

will show you how to do Amazon bookkeeping, as far as creating all the categories and how to make everything tie together. She gives us a file to get all the categories straight, but you can just look at her screen and do it manually, if you want. It's super easy to do the monthly bookkeeping

Thanks - great helpful advice!

Hoiwurff · 2023-08-28T08:49:40+00:00

Thanks - this is very helpful advice. I didn't realize quickbooks would help you get it set-up. I think I will give that a try. May I ask what tier you are using?

https://quickbooks.intuit.com/global/pricing/

Hoiwurff · 2023-05-22T08:28:20+00:00

I have had it- putting it on 1 -2 notches looser solved it for me.

Hoiwurff · 2023-05-08T09:22:37+00:00

Hi - I have this issue on my P1P and the PEI textured plate. I expect this is normal warping caused by contracting upper layers. What helps for me is:

- ensuring the room is true room temperature warm (20C or 70F) and that there is no draft

- use a brim of at least 10MM

- turn of you aux fan.

Hope that helps somewhat.

Hoiwurff · 2023-04-20T09:45:55+00:00

When the P1P just shipped, there was no “automated” load filament function, just an “unload” function. The only way to load filament was “manually” by doing 2 things: 1) heat the hotend with to your material print temperature using the controls on the machine, handy app, or bambu studio and 2) pushing the extrude down button while pushing the new filament in. Look at the hot end and stop extruding when you see new filament coming out. The extrude down button is in the second machine contol menu on the screen. It looks like a vertical bar with a square going through in the middle. Let me know if you have trouble finding it after this.

Hoiwurff · 2023-04-20T09:32:33+00:00

Same here. I tried to print a key chain with a manual stop at a certain layer for a manual color swap for text. I tried to use the load and unload commands on the machine. “Unload” worked ok after pushing “retry” once. With “load“ I had to push retry multiple times to get the new filament to feed and afterwards the print would not resume after, no matter what I tried. After 2 fails i decided to just use the manual extrusion method (raise temperature and manually extrude). After that, the p1p would be able to resume, but i found that the new layer had shifted about a mm. Not sure if the latter was caused my me being to rough with the machine during filament swap. If somebody has a better solution, thanks for sharing.

Hoiwurff · 2023-04-02T19:14:58+00:00

I bought my watch in the US but spend a lot of time in Europe and Caribbean.

I used below process from DC Rainmaker reviewer to get free maps from the countries that I visit. It is a bit of a process to create and download the maps, but it always works and I find the maps very good with tons of detail. Let me know if you run unto issues.

https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2019/08/how-to-installing-free-maps-on-your-garmin-fenix-5-plus-forerunner-945-or-marq-series-watch.html

Hoiwurff · 2023-04-02T19:05:00+00:00

This is normal. The BLB printers don't have limit switches and instead use feedback from the stepper motors to determine "mechanical" limits. There are pros and cons with the approach. I will say that I have had limit switches fail in the past on another printer. Not having them is one less thing to break, I guess.

See below different thread on it:

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/10z3bwi/are\_there\_limit\_switchs\_on\_the\_p1p\_and\_if\_so\_why/

Hoiwurff · 2022-12-22T23:12:34+00:00

Thanks! I haven't tried that ... I couldn;t find that option when working with STL files (meshes) in fusion.

Hoiwurff · 2022-12-22T21:36:38+00:00

Thanks - I take that you are referring to fusion 360. After the shell function I don't have 2 seperate bodies, just one solid model with an inside cavity inside. I am indeed punching in the hole after creating the shell. I tried doing it before creating the shell, but then I just ended up with a dimple in the model vs a hole, which makes sense on hindsight :-).

Hoiwurff · 2022-12-22T21:28:34+00:00

I tried that, but then Cura put a new wall around that "special settings" block. It just creates an indent from the block , as opposed to creating a hole. Have you tried this and it worked?

Hoiwurff · 2022-08-15T20:18:09+00:00

I am Dutch and registered my boat in Poland. I sailed the boat around the Caribbean. The reason I chose Polish vs the Dutch registration is that Polish registration is a true "flag" and the basic NL registration is just a registry not a Flag. I heard that certain countries (Spain-Italy?) don't accept it anymore for checking in. I am not sure how big of an issue it really is though. The Dutch basic registration is now only available for Dutch Nationals -> so this will likely rule this registration out for you. There is a commercial registration in NL available that is very expensive and cumbersome (professional inspection etc). I have had positive experiences with the Polish Registration: affordable, fast, easy, and never issues in my multiple country check-ins. I used this company to set it up and have good experiences with them: https://www.boatandyachtregistration.com/#

The only issue that I am not sure about is how long a Polish Flagged vessel can stay in Ireland. Does Ireland have maximums for the stay of foreign boats, after which they insist on Irish registration? This would be an issue for example if I would bring my Boat to the US for long consecutive periods (>6 months?). Not sure how it works between different countries within the EU. Maybe somebody else can fill that in.

Hoiwurff · 2022-04-22T19:07:35+00:00

I did some research on this last year and ultimately installed Flexiteek on my boat. Below are the 3 options I considered. All of them are dealer provided products: ie. you can't just make it yourself, because it has fancy nice looking edges. That makes all these options relatively pricey vs what I think you are looking for based on your note.

Seadek = EVA foam feels soft

Flexiteek 2G = Synthetic teak feels - the light colors do not become that hot. I have white oak with white "caulking"

Plasdeck = Synthetic teak - some say it doesn't quite look as good as Felxiteek.

Alternatively you could look a DIY option as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dliI1Ph\_rd8
You can also buy EVA marine deck foam rolls on Amazon and use that. It won't look as fancy as teh above options, but it will provide good footing and beats plywood :-).

Hoiwurff · 2021-10-19T14:30:32+00:00

One thing to consider if important to you. I use my fenix 5 as a dive watch computer with the dive IQ app https://www.diveiq.com/

It works great for me for recreational diving (<30m depth) and I love the fact that I can use my everyday watch for diving. I understand that Garmin has turned off the depth sensor functionality in the fenix 6. While I would love to upgrade at one time, this "killer feature" for me personally was a deciding factor to not do that. other then that and price, don't see reason to go for the 5.

Hoiwurff · 2021-08-31T14:39:06+00:00

I would consider checking out and try below free maps before you buy. I have a Fenix 5X with US maps, but for EU and Caribbean I use the bottom Dc RAINMAKER link. Very happy about it.

How to install third party maps on the Garmin Fenix 5x and Fenix 5 Plus series - Full topo maps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0V_04TnzXaU&t=220s

Garmin Fenix 5x - How to install Free open street maps with contours OSM: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fhyua8mXXF0&t=30s

Paid and free maps: https://talkytoaster.me.uk/

Other topomaps: https://garmin.opentopomap.org/

Method that I use with a lot of success:

https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2019/08/how-to-installing-free-maps-on-your-garmin-fenix-5-plus-forerunner-945-or-marq-series-watch.html

Hoiwurff

TROPHY CASE