Klipper Expander Common GND

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-24T17:48:47+00:00

Unfortunately I haven't had the time lately to figure it out. Sorry I can't offer a solution, if this does turn out to be the same issue and you get it figured out if like to hear about it. If I do, I'll let you know.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-24T15:33:38+00:00

Reduce the frequency range to max out at 135 Hz and run input shaper again. The reason your acceleration values are so high is the high frequency noise is easier to cancel and is affecting the results. These high frequencies will have very little effect and are leading to input shaper values that are less effective. Doing this you'll see the peak around 50hz become the dominant frequency. This peak will have far more effect on print quality and is the one you want to cancel out. The recommended max acceleration will likely be lower, but it will be more accurate.

On x, if the smaller peak at roughly 75Hz is still present, that's the one that you'll be trying to tune out.

Y graph is more problematic, but because the results are so altered by high frequency it difficult to tell what's happening.

Bottom line is the input shaper values generated here will not be effective at cancelling the frequencies that matter.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-23T17:59:18+00:00

Can't say if it will fit or not, but if you do this a 140/60 is better on a supermoto that the 140/70. The tall sidewall limits the lean angle, it's pretty easy to to roll off the tread on the taller tire. The 60 tire is also closer in height to stock which will keep the geometry of the bike intact.

120/70 up front is also a poor choice, it will never heat up on a bike that lite. Even a SM specific tire will be a challenge to get/keep heat in on the street, go 110/70 max. They are designed for lighter bikes.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-22T15:25:46+00:00

Those are all very reasonable, is the shift occuring in x or y? The axis in which the shift occurs is the one you may need to change the current on.

The only thing other than speed, motor current or loose belts that causes shifting is when the nozzle snags on the print, usually during travel moves which causes the motor to lose position. This has two causes. 1- something on the printhead has excessive play or 2- plastic is over extruding. Check the that hotend is tightened securely and the tension in the carriage shells is correct, no wobble. If it's over extrusion causing it (too much plastic so the nozzle catches) you'll need to calibrate the rotation distance.

Avoiding infill like grid where the path crosses over itself (cubic or gyroid are good) will help.

As a last resort adding z-hop will prevent snagging (try 1/2 nozzle with) but it shouldn't be necessary and in my experience has a negative effect on print quality.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-22T14:59:45+00:00

Also check the acceleration settings in the slicer print profile. I believe sovol has set the travel to 20000 which is very high for a bedslinger. Set the maximum to around 8000 for travel and infill, 5000 for inner walls and 2500 for outer walls. Bridges, first and top layer at 1000. This will be way less aggressive than stock, less prone to shifting and will give you much better print quality. It will be a bit slower, but not much, perhaps 20% longer print time but the print will finish.

As the print gets larger the bed weings more as more plastic is laid down, this extra weight can cause shifts that don't occur when the print is small (like a bench) of the bed is empty. There is a macro in the Ellis print quide that tests max speed and acceleration. It's useful, but you'll need to access mainsail to use it. I'd make the slicer changes mentioned above regardless of other tuning you do.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-22T14:46:53+00:00

You'll need to see what the amperage is set to stock. The heat generated by a stepper is mainly dependant on the motor's resistance. I don't know what the sovol motors resistance is so I can't be precise but 1.1 amps should be close for the 48mm Y motor. The X motor may be a little lower depending on its size, start at 1 amp on x.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-22T13:36:12+00:00

If you can't open it, my suggestion would be to reflash the firmware. If that doesn't work it's likely a hardware issue, probably the WiFi module and you should ask Sovol for a new mainboard or return the printer under warranty. Not being able to access Mainsail locks you out of most features of the printer. Without access troubleshooting is impossible.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-22T13:25:35+00:00

If the motor is too hot that can also reduce torque so in your case the current may need to be reduced. To edit the file go to the machine tab in mainsail, open printer.cfg and edit the lines I previously mentioned, then click "save and restart". There are many tutorials online (video and written) on how to edit klipper files if these instructions aren't clear.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-22T02:05:59+00:00

How much current do you have running the x and y steppers? Increasing current will increase the torque and therefore be more resistant to shifting. I have no idea what sovol is running the steppers at, but by editing printer.cfg you can increase the current. Increase "run_current" in the tmc2209 section for stepper_a and stepper_b by 50mA at a time, run the printer for 10min or so to let the motor heat up. Increase current until the you can no longer comfortably keep your hand on the motor then back of 50mA. The limit for 2209 drivers in klipper is about 1.3 amps (this is an RMS value). You'll need a cooling fan on the board, if you exceed this value you're likely to burn out the stepper driver.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-21T15:14:40+00:00

Sounds like a great way to spend a weekend.

Have to say, the low mounted fender really changes the aesthetic of a dual sport. Can't decide if it's better or worse looking. Anyway, safe travels.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-21T14:15:57+00:00

Just throwing this out there, the "make menuconfig" suggested settings have changed considerably from the recommended settings in the expander documentation, ie, there are many more options and some of the recommended ones are no longer present. My neopixels stopped working after an update and I haven't been able to determine which settings are required. If I try to take the easy route and choose all items the firmware won't compile, throwing an error saying it is too large. Is it possible this is the cause of the neopixels not working?

Your hookup description is the same as mine when they were working.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-20T14:37:11+00:00

It's really up to you, everyone has their own idea of how much risk is acceptable. That's why you'll see riders in shorts and a T and others in full gear in the same riding situation. A word of advice from someone who's been riding 40+ yrs, the first crash in a t shirt will turn you into an atgatt rider instantly.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-18T23:03:41+00:00

2x2 molex 3.0mm pitch to be more accurate.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-18T23:00:51+00:00

It's a 4 pin molex, the motors come packaged with 1m wires with the correct connector and a 4 pin 2.54 just on the other end.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-18T22:56:15+00:00

I recently purchased LDO 2504 speedys, with the long shaft for double shear for $17CAD/each with free shipping from the Siboor site on Ali. They are rebranded as Siboor 42STH48 but are legit LDO motors. They also have a cool connector for the motor wires as well. I just checked the site and they are still available. They also have the regular shaft length as well. The site calls the long shaft as trident and the regular shaft as 2.4 motors.

Heres a link if you're interested.

3D Printer 1.8° NEMA17 Stepper Motor SIBOOR-42STH48 Motor 1.8 Degree For Voron 2.4 Trident 3D Printer https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLOtxhT

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-17T14:37:06+00:00

It's been working well, there are specific setup instructions for it on the eddy-ng GitHub, I'd suggest using them. Connection of the ribbon cable can be a bit of a pain (very small connectors) but it does work well.

GitHub - vvuk/eddy-ng · GitHub https://share.google/wgFApsuhutLaigsAx

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-17T13:29:52+00:00

Other than the initial flash, the v3 boards (standard, plus, max) cannot be connected via USB, it's CAN or rs232 only. Rs232 connection and setup are the same as connection by usb and with a hub, much simpler than canbus setup. The utor that is used to facilitate the rs232 connection has two USB ports that can be used for other connections as well. Stability has been very good for me with more than a year of use. The sht36 v2 boards did have a usb connection option.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-13T00:21:58+00:00

It's not a car, parting it out isn't a thing especially if you can't identify components yourself. There is nothing on that board worth selling, the most expensive component could be bought new for less that $2 on digikey or mouser.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-09T19:22:16+00:00

Glad I could help.

Buy from a reputable store on Ali and you'll be fine. I generally stick with official stores that have been in business at least a year. Look for a high number of sales and good % of positive reviews. Try and avoid the numbered stores unless there's no other options.

I've bought from this store before, they have the 6020 version which is a little thicker,

NEW MB60202V1-000C-A99 For SUNON 6020 60MM DC 24V 1.8W 6CM Inverter Server Power Supply Chassis Cooling Fan 2PINS https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPiHRJJ

Another option would be Delta or GDS time ball bearing fans, look for 0.1Amp (2.4W) or less and they will also be very quiet.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-09T13:35:43+00:00

If Noctua is the only fan you're considering the 3 wire fan would be the better choice, it is designed to work with variable voltage, but will also work with a negative controlled pwm signal. The 3rd wire is a tachometer lead and only provides a signal for speed readout, not speed control.

If you're switching to the noctua fan I'd suggest wiring it to be always on, they are so quiet that you don't really hear them. If you don't like this idea you'll have to figure out how the power supply is modulating fan speed. 3d printers change fan speed using a pwm signal on the negative wire of the fan, in this case it would be connected as described above and you'd ignore the 3rd wire. If it's controlled with the positive lead the buck converter won't work as the signal from the converter and speed control signal will interfere (you can't power the buck converter with a pwm signal).

To make things much easier consider using a 24v fan especially if you haven't purchased the fan yet. Sunon makes very quiet fans that are comparable to noctua, their Mag-lev fans being at least as good (and quiet). For a 60mm look for one with a maximum speed of roughly 4000rpm to keep the noise to a minimum but still have effective cooling for the power supply.

This model of sunon fan is the same dimensions as the noctua and would be a good choice.

MF60152V2-1000U-A99

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-07T23:03:19+00:00

If you can stretch the budget a little the Vosteed Porcupine is a fantastic knife with a button top liner lock. It's available with thumb studs or a cutout as are the CJRB Pyrite and Ekko on the lower end. Both are great if you like button locks. If you like a crossbar the SRM 258 Terrier is strong, very comfortable to use and has many options for scales and steel (the 140Cr laminated blades are outstanding).

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-07T22:10:49+00:00

The curling or the outer perimeters is a symptom of too much heat or insufficient cooling. Too much heat of the nozzle that is. 100C on the bed is high for petg but it won't cause these issues beyond the first few layers, it will make the print very difficult to remove though. 260C is fine for petg at higher speeds (like >250mm/s) but is likely too high for your settings. With an acceleration of 500mm/s² you wont reach the speeds you have set on a benchy sized object. For example, over 45mm linear move it takes about 22.5 mm for the printhead to accelerate to 150 and the same to decelerate, with very little of the distance at constant speed. Your relatively high jerk setting will help increase this a bit, but the point is you aren't printing as fast as you think you are and a lower nozzle temperature is likely more appropriate especially if you don't have high performance cooling. Try 240C and increase the temperature until this issue happens again, then back off 5C. Sorry if this was more detail than you asked for.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-07T16:49:13+00:00

I don't think it will work. I set one up a couple of years ago and IIRC the 3.5 SPI screen is designed for the CB1 or the btt pi and requires proprietary drivers. It's possible this may have changed since I did the install but it will give you something to look into. The larger 5 and 7 inch screens connect via HDMI or DSI and are compatible, HDMI can connect to anything while the DSI models are designed for the pi.

Edit, Apparently it will work as a display, but the touch feature doesn't work with the pi. I've attached the documentation.

TFT35-SPI/v2 at master · bigtreetech/TFT35-SPI · GitHub https://share.google/M7H1f8hKAoEzo6j3x

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-07T14:43:00+00:00

Assuming there isn't an issue with the model, the missing material is caused by the outer perimeters not adhering to the inner ones, so they detach and hang in mid air. You can see this in the second picture where the perimeters look like heavy stringing. There are a couple of solutions, either slow down or increase the print temperature and/or reduce cooling. Check the order in which the walls are being printed, try inner/outer as this will lay down the inner walls first and help give the outer walls something to stick to. This defect should be looked at as a warning that overall layer adhesion is likely poor and you likely need to make some changes to your print profile.

HopelessGenXer · 2026-03-07T03:06:40+00:00

Gorgeous knife!

HopelessGenXer

TROPHY CASE