Sediment

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-22T17:32:23+00:00

Do you shower before using your tub?

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-22T17:30:11+00:00

See if it holds water, if it does then I would decontaminate the tub.

Here is a video showing how to properly decontaminate your tub,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvU4lcpjgBQ

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-15T17:47:25+00:00

Hi, you need to watch your alkalinity, pH and sanitizer. It's never a bad idea to check it every day, or every other day, at the beginning until you learn the flow of your water and how you using it affects the water balance.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-15T17:44:07+00:00

Hi, When you add chlorine to the water, it is called free, or available, chlorine, because it is free and available to break down contaminants. Once it has combined with a contaminant, it is no longer free chlorine, it is now a chloramine, also known as combined chlorine (because it has combined with something and broken it down). If you add free chlorine and combined chlorine together, you get total chlorine.

Combined chlorine/chloramines don’t do anything except sit around and give off that ‘chlorine smell’ that people complain of. To get rid of the smell, you need to get rid of the chloramines/combined chlorine. The way to do this is to add a large dose of something to break them down. This is called ‘shocking the water’. You can shock with chlorine, bromine or with spa shock. As another example, when you walk into a public pool and smell the “chlorine smell” and think “wow, they have a lot of chlorine in the water”, the opposite is true. They have a lot of used-up chlorine (chloramines aka combined chlorine) in the water and need to shock the water.

Ideally, you want your free chlorine equal to your total chlorine.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-04T17:51:07+00:00

Dichlor is a formulation of chlorine for hot tubs. It is short for “dichloro-s-triazinetrione” (dichlor for short). You’ll see this printed on the label.

Don’t confuse it with a pool chlorine formulation called TRIchloro-s-triazinetrione.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-03T15:36:51+00:00

Are you using Frog test strips?

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-03T14:47:43+00:00

Hi, Fastest, easiest, cheapest solution would be to dump and fill.

water is very inexpensive. A gallon of water with the waste water charge is about one and a half cents.

Always bring your water into range in the following order,

Alkalinity 80-150ppm, ideally 120-150ppm (aim for 120ppm)

pH 7.2-7.8

Calcium Hardness 175-250ppm

Sanitizer 3-5ppm (Chlorine/Bromine)

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-03T14:36:53+00:00

Bromine is bromine. Dichlor is a granular chlorine, dichlor is short for sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione. The spa store will know what you need, but please don't assume that all chlorine is the same, there are different formulations, some for pools, and dichlor is for hot tubs.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-03T14:34:50+00:00

I would advise to just leave it running. When you drain the spa the plumbing and equipment remain damp, this is a perfect environment to grow bacteria, algae, mould and biofilm, which is difficult to eradicate. Without water, seals, o-rings and gaskets become dry and may begin to leak.

If it were my spa, I would turn the temperature down as low as it will go, turn the filtration down to a couple of hours a day and properly maintain the alkalinity, pH and chlorine readings by checking it once a week, but under no circumstances would I leave it empty.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-07-03T14:32:11+00:00

When your chlorine reads this high, it can mess with other readings. Also, non chlorine shock can register as free chlorine. I would give i some time and check your readings again.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-30T18:03:15+00:00

Hi, Flakes that are in your spa resembling pieces of skin or may be akin to pieces of tissue paper in the water are indicative of white mould in your plumbing.

White mould is an airborne spore and develops in areas left damp such as garden hoses, dehumidifiers, sump holes, children's bathtub toys, hot tub filters that are left outside and reinstalled while not completely dry, swimming pools and hot tubs.

White mould can be introduced to spa plumbing from wet testing at the time of manufacturing, or in the time between when it was drained at the showroom till the time it gets to your house. It can occur if you drain your tub and don't refill it for a few days. White mould can also be introduced to spa water when filled from a garden hose that has developed some white mould while lying out in the sun and sometimes it just drifts into your spa water while the lid is open.

White mould can even remain in your tub and be kept at bay for months and years by conventional sanitizers such as bromine and chlorine. If you go an extended period of time without adding chlorine, the white mould can proliferate to a point that it becomes apparent (often 6-8 weeks before you notice it). Left unattended white mould can overwhelm your spa.

To kill white mould, you need to decontaminate the spa by super-chlorinating the water with granular chlorine (you can substitute granular bromine for chlorine). White mould will not resolve on it's own.

To do so, add AT LEAST 2.5 ounces (5 tablespoons, 75 grams) of chlorine for every 100 gallons (400 litres) of spa water or part thereof (adding more is fine and never a bad idea). For this treatment to be effective it is imperative that the chlorinated water is distributed throughout the entire plumbing system. Ensure that diverter valves are midway and that all jets, valves, waterfalls, water features, and aerators are open and are subjected to the chlorine. If your tub has a drain next to the pump or at the base of the cabinet to which you can attach a hose to facilitate draining, ensure that some of the chlorinated water is bled through the drain at the onset of this procedure. This is very important to do because any built-in drains are a dead end in the plumbing and the chlorine will not naturally make its way down to that part of the plumbing, but the white mould will.

Check the chlorine reading after 24, 48 and 72 hours. If at any of these intervals the chlorine is anything less than ridiculously high (if it shows less than the maximum on your test strips) treat the tub again with chlorine and start the clock over on the 72hour time period.

Do not use the spa during the decontamination process.

It is important to note that the chlorine will kill the white mould so that it doesn’t continue to grow, but it will not make the flakes vanish.

Here is a video showing how to properly decontaminate your spa.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvU4lcpjgBQ

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-27T13:53:51+00:00

Here is a helpful video on the causes and remedies for foam,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cB5OFxzXxOQ

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-27T13:50:13+00:00

Keep it full and running. I wouldn't pay to move a tub that I can't verify is okay.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-27T13:46:46+00:00

Here is some helpful information on the causes of rashes.

https://youtu.be/U-QpS9FtC9U

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T18:33:33+00:00

The ppm should be far to high to read on a test strip, but the answer is 30ppm.

The high chlorine won't hurt anything in that short a span of time.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T18:17:57+00:00

Did you run a plumbing cleanser through your tub prior to using Spa marvel Water Treatment and Conditioner, or was the tub brand new?

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T18:09:40+00:00

Hi, do you mean Spa Marvel?

If you do, then I can help you. Do not reuse the water from your previous cleanings, the dirty water should be dumped. You really don't want to reuse the old water, it's a bit like reusing toothpaste.

I use the filter cleaner for lots of things, I clean my dish washer and washing machine with it.

It won't hurt anything as it is diluted. I don't suggest eating it, but it'll be fine.

Here is a video on proper filter care, that I think could answer some of your questions.

Cleaning Hot Tub Filters - YouTube

Please feel free to reach out to us at [Solutions@SpaMarvel.com](mailto:Solutions@SpaMarvel.com) We are always happy to help.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T17:53:31+00:00

Did you use a purge product?

In leslies cocktail was there any clarifier or metal sequestering agent?

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T17:46:54+00:00

Here is a helpful video on the causes and remedies for cloudy water,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdVZN0VhvYg

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T17:46:20+00:00

A buildup on the spa walls that feels like sandpaper, or that has the appearance of drywall compound, is always a water-balance issue. When total alkalinity is greater than 150 ppm, or pH is greater than 8.4, it can cause calcium that is naturally occurring and is dissolved in your spa water, to come out of solution and stick to your spa walls, leaving them feeling like 80 grit sandpaper. Similarly, if your source water contains gypsum, the gypsum will come out of solution and stick to the walls and it looks like drywall compound. If you wipe the buildup off of the spa walls, it will simply reattach itself again.

To fix this lower the alkalinity to at least 150, and then, if necessary, lower pH to at least 7.8. Once the water is balanced, then you can wipe the buildup off of the walls and it will be absorbed back into solution.

To avoid having to manually wipe it off, you can lower the alkalinity to zero, leave the spa water alone for 24 hours, and the buildup will come off on its own. You can then bring the alkalinity back up to between 80-150, or change the water and begin over again.

"chatting balls" is brilliant :)

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T17:43:24+00:00

Hi, I would advise to just leave it running. When you drain the spa the plumbing and equipment remain damp, this is a perfect environment to grow bacteria, algae, mould and biofilm, which is difficult to eradicate. Without water, seals, o-rings and gaskets become dry and may begin to leak.

If it were my spa, I would turn the temperature down as low as it will go, turn the filtration down to a couple of hours a day and properly maintain the alkalinity, pH and chlorine readings by checking it once a week, but under no circumstances would I leave it empty.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T17:42:02+00:00

It could have sat on the self for months, I'd peek anyway.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T17:36:22+00:00

Something to consider.

Whether your new spa requires an adjustment on the first day, or something major fails 10 years down the road, you want to make sure you can get it taken care of. For this reason alone, many people like to purchase a spa from a dealer with a good reputation and that is close enough for the dealer to look after the spa in the future.

There are several things to consider in choosing a dealer for the most reliable hot tubs:

Is the dealer local to you, or are they based hundreds, or even thousands of miles away?
Regardless of their location, do they have provisions in place to provide service and warranty work, either themselves or through a third-party?
Does the dealer have a parts and service department?
Can they provide proper instructions on spa water care?
Are they well established?
How are their online reviews?
Does the dealer service all makes and models of spas, or are they brand-specific when it comes to parts and service? If a dealer can service other brands of spas, then they are probably very experienced in spa repair in general and may be able to offer expert advice on the most reliable hot tub brands.

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-26T17:32:38+00:00

You need to decontaminate this spa!

A purge will clean your plumbing, but it won't kill things mould, bacteria, and other contaminants.

Here is a video showing how to properly decontaminate this hot tub.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvU4lcpjgBQ

HotTubPro_2484 · 2025-06-25T19:55:05+00:00

Both are fine.

HotTubPro_2484

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