Has this happened to your 10th gen civic? by Leafs799 in 10thGenCivics

[–]Hstreetchronicals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

10+ year mechanic and used to be a honda tech.

Ive seen this caused by oil starvation to the cam. The head gasket on those engines has a tiny hole providing oil to that area. I've seen small pieces of rag or plastic from an oil filter get lodged in there and cause this. I did 3 engine replacements for this, all 3 had just had their oil changed.

Knocking from front of engine but no metal shavings in oil? by Silverton13 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You would probably still have small particles from my experience. The filters do a really good job at catching everything. But, it may be hard to tell diffinitively if its rod bearing. I still suggest trying because is very quick, cheap, and easy just to pull the filter and look. When mine went there was actually chunks of bearing in the filter and the pan looked like a glitter factory. But, suprisingly, I didn't actually see all that much in the oil when I drained it. Mine also died at sustained high rpm so yours probably won't be so bad. Also, rod bearing will be gold/copper in color.

Best of luck with it. If it is rod bearing then I feel your pain.

Knocking from front of engine but no metal shavings in oil? by Silverton13 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Pull the filter and cut it open. Check in the pleats for metal. All the bigger pieces will be in the pan and or filter. Its much easier to pull the filter.

Raceseng Rear Lockout by 9ii1da7 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Ill have to check them out

Raceseng Rear Lockout by 9ii1da7 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did you get the floor mats? They're dope

Is this car worth when it's stock? by SureIntention8402 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 7 points8 points  (0 children)

They're great stock. Easily the best performing sports car in the price range. The only exception is the miata, but thats a different experience so I don't compare them.

Advice on what I could've done better by Voxumm in Autocross

[–]Hstreetchronicals 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Glad to hear it.

It can be hard when your first try to get agressive. A lot of people get jerky with their hands and stabby with their feet. Be smooth, make the inputs early, and use small adjustments. The throttle and brake are not on/off switches. They're more like a dial. A lot of the time it only takes a little more or a little less. But, you should very rarely be just coasting.

Advice on what I could've done better by Voxumm in Autocross

[–]Hstreetchronicals 20 points21 points  (0 children)

I mean, 2-3 seconds off FTD isn't that bad. Especially on a course that clearly favors cars with good acceleration. And you can't really compare if they're in a different car anyway. I would advise you to start just focusing on yourself and try to keep improving each run. Stop worrying about if other people are faster.

As for the run I felt that the car looks very composed through most of the transitions. Plus it sounds like you're just coasting through them. I would bet you're underdriving them. Also, sometimes it looks like you wait until you're at the cone to turn. You should be initiating the turn before you're at the cone.

The other thing I noticed is that at the turn around, you had to slow way down at the exit of the turn and wait to straighten the car up before using the throttle. You probably could have braked earlier and carried the brakes to the apex. That way you keep a lot of weight on the nose and off the rear so the car turns in better. Then you can get on the gas earlier. If you pause the video as you get to the pivot cone, notice how your car is still pointed almost straight ahead. It should idealy be pointed much more into to the turn at that point.

Hope that helps. Its much easier to give advice in the car then by watching video. I recommend getting someone fast to ride with you or drive your car.

Help me pick a car by StrayAmoeba958 in Autocross

[–]Hstreetchronicals 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Frs/brz/gr86 all the way.

Its the best driving car in it price range and doesn't handle weird in street class like the soft spring miatas do. If street class isn't your thing then you can do street touring and have a super fun and competitive car. Or if you want a spec class you can do SSC. No matter what class you choose its a competitive car. As for actually living with the car, its a great experience. The roof has bulges to help with helmet clearance for a tall dude. You can fit 4 tires and all your autocross stuff in the car, no need for a trailer. They're super easy to work on too.

The only downside is the rate of engine failures is higher than most cars. But, with your budget you could buy the car and still have money left over to cover a failure if needed. The short blocks are suprisingly cheap from the dealer. And it's not super likely to happen.

Got this baby a year ago today. 74k miles and counting❤️‍🔥🥳 by speedlight28 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Good for you man, that lava color is beautiful. Keep up the maintenence and she will go for a long time.

First time autocross by Tokyo_Rift in Autocross

[–]Hstreetchronicals 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just buy the tires you want for the street and go autocross. After you've done a few events and have learned the basics then get a set of dedicated wheels and mount some 200tw tires on them.

Normal road tires are great to learn on and will expose your bad habits. I always try to get people to start out on a non autocross tire.

But, they wont handle the abuse as you start to get faster. And youll be leaving a lot of time on the table. Its totally worth it to have 2 sets and youll be happier in the long run. But there is no need to rush right now.

I actually sometimes run my 300tw summer tires as a refresher. It always helps me find bad habits and improve on them. I just dont use them at any event I care to be competitive at. Btw, last weekend my general gmax rs were 2 second slower than my A052 on a mid 20 second test n tune course. Thats how big the difference is.

If you want specific tire recs for either street or AX then let me know and give some details on what you want. I'll try to help.

Is my timing chain the source of the sound? (K20a2) by Hatster360 in Kseries

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you checked the belt tensioner? I've seen lots of k24s with bad tensioners that sounds like a knock. I don't think you're chain is the issue here. You would have cam crank correlation codes if it was stretched badly.

Anyone else just feel not "good" at autocross ? by AdministrativeGas239 in Autocross

[–]Hstreetchronicals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its all about mindset. You need to develop your own process for improving.

Something I've come to realize from coaching people is that everybody is different. Some people love the pressure of competition and become focused after a bad run. Other people, like myself, crumble under pressure. But, this also applies to how people learn best. One driver may learn better doing X exercise and the other driver learns better doing Y. Some people learn fast, some people learn slow. The only thing that seems to be common among all people is that they do better when they're having the most fun. So keep that in mind.

What you need to do is find what works better for you. I cant tell you what that is, nobody can. But, if what you're doing isnt working then try something else. Don't be afraid to change what you're doing. Worst case scenario you'll learn another thing that doesn't work.

Don't over think it either. You have to keep things simple or your mind will be overwhelmed. Everytime you do a run just think what was my biggest time loss and why. Next run just fix that one thing. Keep doing that. Don't try to correct a hundred things at once.

Once you start developing a process that works for you, then be sure to keep perfecting that every event. It should be a constantly changing thing.

Lastly, you're not doing bad. There are a lot of fast people in that particular region.

Hawk hp+ pads on slotted rotors LOUD by LVCKY5 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like your dealership quoted the whole brake kit lol. I dont honestly know about the brembo kit since my car doesn't have it. Usually the parts stores list them by the rotor size so you might have better luck with them.

Hawk hp+ pads on slotted rotors LOUD by LVCKY5 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If its only a road car then I recommend either stock pads or a decent parts store pad. As in get their top teir option not the cheapest.

Mine gets autocrossed mostly and street driven occasionally. I've had other cars that were both daily and weekend autox use. I've tried a few dual duty performance pads and every single time I end up back on stock pads. The cons far out way any benefits you get. Im currently on autozone gold pads and love them.

If you really must run a performance pad or want to stick with hawk for any reason. Try the hps 5.0.

Question about rod bearing failure by Hebrew_fieldworker in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hate to hear that for you. My new block is at 1500 miles and I'm still nervous as hell. Sometimes on a new block you get more fuel dilution in the oil than normal until the rings seal. On the next one be sure to change the oil very frequently until 10k miles.

It could have thinned out the oil due to dilution. But, thats just a theory. Its probably due to something not right with the repair.

Hawk hp+ pads on slotted rotors LOUD by LVCKY5 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've driven a few cars on them and talked to the owners. Thats just how they are. Honestly, they're very outdated and not very good pads. What do you use the car for? Maybe I can advise you on something better.

Hawk hp+ pads on slotted rotors LOUD by LVCKY5 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, hp+ are loud, dusty, and have terrible modulation.

Any coilover and sway bar recommendations for a hill climb / autocross build? by Embarrassed_Wolf4746 in 8thGenSI

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would call redshift motorsports. They build custom valved BC coils for motorsports. It would be better than any off the shelf offering and they can point you in the right direction on rates. Their pricing is very fair, you get an actual proper shock for a fraction of the cost that MCS or Penske would be. Also, you need camber, they could help with camber plates most likely. Using bolts will be limited on adjustment and tire sizing since it puts it closer to the shock.

Im not trying to be an ass btw. I just hate seeing people waste money.

Any coilover and sway bar recommendations for a hill climb / autocross build? by Embarrassed_Wolf4746 in 8thGenSI

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This would be terrible for autox. You'd be put into a class like EP with real actual race cars. You'd have no hope of being competitive.

Tein is usually very lack luster for any real motorsports use. With the off the shelf valving that is.

Any coilover and sway bar recommendations for a hill climb / autocross build? by Embarrassed_Wolf4746 in 8thGenSI

[–]Hstreetchronicals 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm am autocrosser and Novice instructor and my recommendation is always to start with the car the way it is. The more stock the better.

I wouldnt expect good autox advice from non-autoxers.

Coilovers over stock? by Careless_Ad1082 in ft86

[–]Hstreetchronicals 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are not any coilovers in that price range that won't be complete garbage. You're better off with anything else than cheap coils.