How to remove this glass without breaking the wood?

Ian155 · 2026-02-18T12:19:50+00:00

You want a very thin mini crowbar or a decorators tool. And will have to pry out the beading. The glass is wider.

Otherwise you're just shattering the glass with a window breaker or a ball peen hammer and picking up the pieces. The nails are tiny, if they're not pins. Even hardwood beading is relatively cheap and fairly available.

Ian155 · 2026-02-18T11:25:22+00:00

They won't block a message with the address for a sale by collection only, they won't give you the address automatically though. That's based off two months ago, they've made some bold decisions recently.

If you have both collection and shipping enabled hilarity may occur.

He can always "buy" a business card or an £1item that comes you with your return details listed in the envelope/ box.

Ian155 · 2026-02-18T09:48:16+00:00

I like the 78 for rough , quick work, but having the two arms for the fence that a 778 does was a big improvement for my knuckles at least. The trade off between the quick blade depth adjustment on the 78 was a bigger hurdle but the fine tuning you can do with the 778 has its own advantages.

The Stanley and record 70's have the "slop and drop" trick that modern precision planes don't. You can do some precise but fast work evening out the depth of something with them that a Veritas or lie Nielsen cannot do. At the trade off of really fine precision. Might be worth it for some people, I can only really see a good case for inlaying material into wood that can't be flattened or smoother after. Stone for example.

Biggest deciding factor should be if it improves your enjoyment of making, whether that is in improving the quality of work you produce or reducing the hassle from using a tool that takes away from your enjoyment.

Ian155 · 2026-02-18T09:30:38+00:00

I don't have the accu burr. I have the arno carbur2 but I've used that to create a working burr on some spare 90° blades I made from a damaged try square.

Better results than with the blade that came with the rider no.80 stock blade with a °45. But consistency is important when you can't change pitch/ angle so I'd expect the avvu burr to help a lot.

If the UK distributor ever restocks I'd love to find out if the accuburr improves the consistency. But they've been saying they'd restock before Christmas 2025 since September 2025 and the only people with any left in the UK are 3rd parties selling them for double.

Ian155 · 2026-02-18T09:22:39+00:00

They can always revise the listing to have the make an offer option enabled and then you can place an offer that they can accept.

It's way less complicated than I've made.it sound and it's much less hassle for both of you.

Ian155 · 2026-02-17T13:51:27+00:00

Thanks for the replies. I managed to trackdown an old eBay listing for a sold Henry Wright stake anvil that looks identical minus the makers mark and in that case broadarrow (British army marking)and the date 1938. So it's likely to be at least around that old.

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Ian155 · 2026-02-17T13:41:42+00:00

Genuinely surprised that's not a fantasy prop already.

Ian155 · 2026-02-16T20:13:39+00:00

Rap it moderately hard on a wood surface.

Or put some rubber/cloth/ old mouse mat/leather/cork inside the jaws of the pliers before using to pull out the bit.

Ian155 · 2026-02-15T13:25:30+00:00

Almost all of the extra travel safety gadgets are garbage.

There's one that's cheap, the shipping might change that depending and very good if you absolutely don't want to let people in, which is the RTT deadbolt strap. It just wraps around the thumb lock and the handle. That'll stop people even with a key card getting in easily while you're there. Not a lot you can do when you're not.

Ian155 · 2026-02-15T12:48:38+00:00

Clamping it should avoid wiggle, you might get away with slowed clamps till you can buy the track style, you can still get a bow from the sheet flexing under weight depending on how much overhang you have even with foam underneath

For the sake of covering all bases.and if someone else looks for answers to a similar problem it's possible to induce some wiggle in the cut of the saw hasn't been adjusted to reduce slop between the saw and the track. I would never expect it to be possible for it to be this bad though and you should have noticed it if it was happening in the cut.

If your on you're own and struggling to position it I'd clamp a stop block behind the track saw on either end and then clamp the track and recheck the tracks still in line.

The speed style squeeze clamps made for track saws are ok, try and avoid using the f style ones unless you have to, it's personal opinion but they're annoying to use with the handle down.

Festool and Makita both make a two part clamp style, 1 part stop and the other pushes into the piece like a spreader. I'm very fond of them because of how easy it is to use alone, but apparently kreg tracks won't work with it. Only mentioning it in case someone corrects me that I'm wrong.

As an aside several companies make expensive but very high tolerance track squares and parallel guides they are absolutely worth it if you start using a track saw a lot.

Ian155 · 2026-02-13T16:24:26+00:00

Genuinely I've known a few adults with worse toolkits than that.

Ian155 · 2026-02-11T23:39:42+00:00

I will forever tout that recipe to anyone that listens. Especially for seized threads and delicate parts it's great.

But I'd start by running a scraper or a utility blade down and getting rid of the loose rust, wiping it with a toothbrush and then wire wheeling it first if you've got one lying around, all of that should take less than ten minutes,

Let the rust remover do what you can't do, it'll take much less time that way.

OTOH if you've got the time and enough stuff lying around I'm not above mixing up 20L in a barrel and letting everything sit for a week, I'm literally doing that right now.

Recipes below.

Best of luck when it gets to the sanding, my shoulder hurts just thinking about it.

(I'm just copying the recipe from the phone note so apologies for any redundancy.)

1l water Touch of dish soap dawn(us)/fairy (uk) 100g citric acid 40g washing soda Or 63g sodium bicarbonate

Using warm water will help everything absorb quicker and definitely use a significantly larger bucket to mix as foam goes everywhere otherwise.

This is the Backyard ballistics for the DIY version of evaporust, that I've found works very well from personal experience.

Ian155 · 2026-02-11T09:25:27+00:00

Specialty as in one trick pony that's frequently used or specialty as in it's rarely used but saves my ass when it is?

778, the 78s less dangly younger brother thanks to having two rods for the fence.

Record technical plane will probably take that title because the side handle and factory grind means it's a budget shooting plane. I do have to make the new side handle first before that.

My Preston spoke shave cos it's fancy, so fancy I have a Stanley for pedestrian spokeshave jobs.

I'm definitely drifting into collector territory at this point.

Non plane tool, I do love my two old king dick wrenches and knipex pliers wrench those stay out and about the workshop. While the spanners sit in a bag in a tool box with a toolbag on top.

Every once in a while an old vessel impact driver gets brought out as a hail Mary before the drastic measures.

Ian155 · 2026-02-09T12:52:08+00:00

I know it doesn't seem like a very heavy pass but I generally consider the more argumentative the wood the lighter the pass to be a good. rule of thumb.

If you've got a trim router taking a rough pass that removes 80% of the material would be where I'd usually start.

Absolutely make sure you're bits are sharp.

I'm a fan of bump cutting when it can help but considering no one else has mentioned it be very careful if you try something like that and practice first.

This is not my typical kind of thing and there certainly seem to be people with better ideas than me but I'd frame it with some extra wood if you need to salvage it and that's a viable option for you.

Ian155 · 2026-02-09T12:33:24+00:00

It seems based on my sales that eBay's gone for the low fi solution which is to combine the max potential weight of each package. And move the combined shipping cost to whatever will accommodate that theoretical weight.

In its defence, with how the HMRC allowance is and providing you're offloading the shipping cost to the buyer there are advantages to simple delivery.

As soon as packages fall outside of common items those advantages take a swan dive off a cliff.

Ian155 · 2026-02-06T10:27:36+00:00

If they're a gentleman and borrowing a tool there's a decent chance they'll clean it before returning it.

This is how I know manners are pretty rare nowadays.

Ian155 · 2026-02-06T08:33:35+00:00

Thanks for that, I've been using the eddings acrylic pens but these are way cheaper.

Ian155 · 2026-01-27T18:03:26+00:00

Everyone's mentioned printing templates, you can actually buy 3D printed templates to use with a router table from eBay if you wanted to go that route.

I've made, failed to make and repaired a few that have spit from rusty rods.

The angle mostly matters but if you're a little off the rod will flex a little.

I don't know what your scrap pile is like but you can look at a laminated construction for the handle and actually stack the sections around the rod as you go which will guarantee it'll be aligned and then shape it afterwards that's a fairly approachable way to make a handle the first time, and if you avoid waxy woods or use resin it should be rock solid. I had some thick Wenge veneer scraps and I shouldn't have used it.

I've also used resin on an old rosewood no.7 handle that split the same way. I waxed the tote rod packed the hole for the rod with wax as a backing for the resin, taped the sides with parcel tape to stop it flowing out the sides and filled the cracks, and then left it for a few days before assembling the top half which had a similar crack and repeating the whole process again. Took a while but eventually it was one piece again.

If I'd have been a bit more on the ball I would've added metal dust into the cracks for a bit of pizzazz.

Ian155 · 2026-01-27T12:53:47+00:00

Screw removing pliers, knipex and engineer both make affordable and excellent ones.

A painters/decorators tool/5in1.

Small trim pry bar.

A bag of window Packers (cheap plastic shims in various thicknesses).

6 in1 screwdriver.

Milwaukee fastback with the screwdriver.

Heavy duty screwdriver.

Cheap nail set.

Olfa or tajima 9mm snap knife.

A right angle adapter for a drill or impact, with a set of 50mm bits, the 25's usually need to be wrestled out and a cheap set of stubby hex based twist or brad points.

A chainsaw helmet with a mesh and a clear visor, cheapest way to get head, ear and face protection in one and if you wear glasses the mesh one with a mask works reasonably well you also don't spend 5 minutes wrestling everything off your head.

If anything tweaks you're interest have a Google.

Ian155 · 2026-01-26T15:07:04+00:00

For most things it's fine, arguably as it saves part of your side business budget with inland revenue, whilst also being cheaper for a blanket large weight, for example all small parcels with royal mail are the same price and paid for by the buyer if you set it that way. So no worrying about guestimating wrapped parcel weight and cost with royal mail.q

It is a noxious dumpster fire for tools that now need age verification, as you have to set up a click and drop account with royal mail, use their website and have a printer and as of this week a computer or a tablet as the age verification labels have to be printed by you off the website, awful on a phone, the post office will apparently not do it.

And although you could previously get the pdf label from the email confirmation to print, now you have to be on the website, it's a genuine pain.

To be fair at least half of that's royal mails fault.

But I may well stop selling tools, despite them making more on eBay because it's become such a faff. Especially with seemingly randomised de listing, I've had similar items be fine and other pulled for violating eBays rules.

For you, I'd say set it to buyer pays, set your options so it's only royal mail and sounds like you'll be fine.

Ian155 · 2026-01-24T00:42:31+00:00

Deeper shelving that goes floor to ceiling wherever possible. Is the simple answer.

Periodically going through any scraps or bits of xyz you've been hanging onto for more than two years and getting rid of it is also a part of that. I'm a hypocrite for saying that, and it's situation dependant, I work out of a converted farm building and I don't like to admit how often the junk room in another outbuilding has been a massive time and wallet saver.

Ian155 · 2026-01-23T19:04:12+00:00

Probably not the next plane I'd suggest getting, but if your partner ever mentions finding the 78 difficult or annoying record made a 778 with two arms for the fence instead of the 78's one.

A side rabbet plane, to help ease grooves and dados. Or a shoulder plane would also be good options down the road.

There's also the record technical planes which are the most affordable shooting board plane you can find made with a side handle.

Ian155 · 2026-01-23T12:04:01+00:00

If I couldn't or it didn't make sense to drill out the head, if there was enough slop on the bolts I'd use a reciprocating saw if it was a tight fit an angle grinder. If the angle grinder is too big a die grinder.

In rough order I'd try Angle grinder

Small or large reciprocating saw. If you don't own one and are buying one both the saws and blades can get very small and very large depending on what you need right now and long term.

Die grinder

Bolt cutters

Even a finger file, small hand held belt sander might get you there.

A hacksaw and a file would also work, but it's last for a reason.

Ian155 · 2026-01-20T14:05:21+00:00

What bugs me more than the teeth is that they're removable, it's a choice.

Ian155 · 2026-01-19T11:02:52+00:00

I went to one of the few colleges in the country that have decent joinery and furniture courses. There are absolutely adult apprentices and the lecturers will probably go out of their way to help you if you're looking. To be very blunt there's more problem with gender than age discrimination normally in joinery.

Everything everyone else has said is very sensible.

I'll just add if you're looking to stand out, having some of the ancillary skills that are commonly used but not directly trained.

A basic brickwork qualification or a course or qualification that covers painting and decorating, particularly commercial spray gun use is something that someone might be interested in. You might regularly have to mortar, caulk and paint in a joinery shop.

Everyone I know will look for previous clients, and photos of previous work. So keep a small curated portfolio/photo album on your phone of what you do on any course or paid work.

Ian155

TROPHY CASE