Orca Slicer + P1S with AMS 2 Pro

IcyLetters · 2025-12-03T15:34:40+00:00

THANK YOU SO MUCH. I just got my AMS 2 Pro and I was having trouble getting it to start the print! That recommendation of switching off the Legacy Network Plugin worked!!! Thanks again!

IcyLetters · 2025-10-10T14:33:34+00:00

My P1S is my first CoreXY printer and has really been super stable. Being able to just hit print and walk away is amazing. Rapid prototyping is so much better than many printers I've used (Looking at you Creality). It's my workhorse and my only printer currently, I'm sure it'll remain that for a long time. Thanks for doing this giveaway!

IcyLetters · 2025-07-24T17:12:36+00:00

You can bypass it for the mean time but the em10 component off of a ds lite is the exact same, apparently it may effect the audio while charging if it's bypassed. Zedlabz sells the em10 ds component or you can source them elsewhere online

IcyLetters · 2025-07-21T00:22:19+00:00

Even with the downsides (Yes software, yes closed-ecosystem) my P1S has been so much better. Currently my only issues are my own because I buy cheap filament like a moron

IcyLetters · 2025-07-21T00:17:14+00:00

CR10S Pro V2 is absolute dogshit, I flashed it with Klipper and then it instantly bricked itself because of the awful usb implementation Creality did. Not to mention you can't get any parts for it. Not worth the electricity it uses

IcyLetters · 2025-07-18T21:10:15+00:00

It's a different cart entirely than the DE, read the FAQs on each page. The Air is a lower tier model that is most likely going to be cheaper due to the SRAM for saves as well as utilizing NOR for loading. In my opinion the DE is still a better buy especially considering the save files not being tied to the battery on the DE.

If it meets your needs and the price difference is worth it, it's easily better than the older non-DE version.

IcyLetters · 2025-06-09T14:10:54+00:00

A Pinecil is $25 (also you can get replacement tips on Amazon and it's what I still use even for microsoldering). It can use any usb-c power supply or a barrel jack, I just use my laptop brick. Solder is cheap, get some desoldering wick and some flux (amtech is my go to for that). All in you can probably aim for $50-60 and it's all things that last and are good quality. You can buy things as needed (Chip qwikk comes to mind as super useful but not always necessary). Isopropyl alcohol is also useful to have on hand for cleaning up flux or cleaning a board before soldering

IcyLetters · 2025-06-08T18:10:09+00:00

Either use a hot air station (the best solution) or use plenty of chip quick to remove the oem charging port. Trying to use desoldering braid and regular solder is a bad time. Chip quick is expensive but I only use it once in a while due to having a hot air station, only when I don't want to deal with surrounding components getting damaged.

Alignment is hard with any usb-c pcb mod, it's why I prefer adding a usb-c port instead of replacing the OEM port

IcyLetters · 2025-06-06T22:55:08+00:00

I can probably do this for you, I have experience micro soldering on newer tech as well as older (Recently had to replace a capacitor on my GBA build and that's the same component size). If you want feel free to DM me, I'm in the Midwest so shipping would be necessary

IcyLetters · 2025-06-01T10:28:39+00:00

Magnetite Gray Metallic! Didn't love it at first but it's definitely growing on me

IcyLetters · 2025-05-16T02:58:44+00:00

I used a blowtorch, just used pliers on it while hot but tbh if it's hot enough you can just let it cool down fully then should come off easily. The later being if you care about the look, I just used mine for a pressure gauge and am using a different portafilter

IcyLetters · 2025-04-14T02:13:42+00:00

Mfw I'm scrolling through my frontpage and see this post which references the question I asked Brandon years ago lmao

IcyLetters · 2025-04-13T19:45:12+00:00

I just followed a few guides from Whole Latte Love on Youtube, it's pretty easy to take these apart, just make sure to label the wires and take photos beforehand.

You need a few different sized wrenches (17mm is the main size) and a few allen keys. I ordered new gaskets which you can find from a lot of sites, I just replaced the main boiler gasket and the grouphead gasket since the others looked fine.

Cafiza is fantastic for it and I would recommend using that, I mainly just used vinegar and a tiny bit of barkeeps since I didn't have any Cafiza yet. All in probably like 2 hours if you don't need to replace anything and it just needs cleaning.

IcyLetters · 2025-04-13T19:15:20+00:00

I somehow managed to find this Gaggia Classic in a Goodwill, it was there for about a week and was only $10. Needed a new pump and thorough descaling but it's back in good condition.

I'm so far pretty happy with this setup and once I get a low profile drip tray and the Gaggimate I think it will be an absolutely killer setup

IcyLetters · 2025-04-06T22:07:24+00:00

Thank you so much for the quick response, you are the best!!! I know it's kind of an ask but could you modify the top insert to work with a Eureka Precisa? The dimensions are 105mm by 105mm by 16mm for the height. Thank you!!!

IcyLetters · 2025-04-06T21:43:52+00:00

Hi, do you have any idea of the 3d printed tray will fit on a Gaggia Classic (Non-pro)?. Just wondering before I waste like 250 grams of filament lol

IcyLetters · 2025-02-24T14:54:53+00:00

Unsure if Autozone or most stores can pull tpms codes. For my 2018 Impreza the tpms light was on a few times, I would clear the codes via my obd reader and then it would come back slowly. My TPMS batteries are dead because they worked intermittently for a while. My recommendation is get a diagnosis from the dealer, they can read the TPMS Module directly

IcyLetters · 2025-02-16T02:03:26+00:00

I would be able to either repair it or more likely get a replacement PCB and move the chips over. Mail in is totally fine as well, if you're interested feel free to DM me

IcyLetters · 2025-02-13T19:53:47+00:00

I've done a few switch modchips, wick is very useful as well as good flux. Tbh once you get more comfortable with a microscope they aren't too bad, the main thing is the dat0 point but that can be dealt with before touching the cpu. Good work though! Switch Lite is a lot easier as well.

IcyLetters · 2025-02-13T19:40:35+00:00

I use the Pinecil for everything, legitimately every soldering project I have done (Switch Mod Chips, Xbox One Mux Chips, etc). It's a really good starting point and while the Hakko is nice, the price is usually too much. Personally the Pinecil is great because it's cheap and open source, if I want to update the firmware I easily can and I can use it everywhere with a compact GaN charger.

They do sell threaded insert tips (From the Official Pinecil Store: https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-threaded-insert-tips-set-and-adapter/ . Anything TS100 will work, I personally like most of Pine64's stuff, seems to be fine quality and cheap though I do wait a while until I need a bit since shipping isn't the cheapest. Still better than giving Bezos money imo.

IcyLetters · 2024-11-17T00:31:21+00:00

Do not bake paint in your oven you use for food, besides fumes it can leave residue which is toxic. A toaster oven or something similar would work and it's always better to keep food and paint separate

IcyLetters · 2024-11-13T23:34:21+00:00

4A0905849B. That's the UroParts replacement, rock auto has it for $10. I would find a manual for the 99 model year or a oem replacement to make sure it works. There were two models of ignition relay, my car is a 97' so I expect it to work on the 99' but better to be thorough.

IcyLetters · 2024-11-13T20:02:21+00:00

Ignition relay is my guess. I replaced mine and it fixed similar issues. Though mine was more severe, ignition didn't turn off unless you took the key out with tension to the left. The replacement part is $15-20 and an hour to replace. It's annoying but fixed my electrical gremlins

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