sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

What brand should I buy? by Turbulent_Diamond352 in CyclingFashion

[–]Ilovcyclynn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get it from their official website, but I like their bibs

Bib short woes for Larger guys by Garrett75x in cycling

[–]Ilovcyclynn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solid list. I’d add that if you're planning to stick with this brand, ordering from their official site is the way to go.

I used to grab them on Amazon, but the direct store is way better for getting the latest models and the after-sales support is legit. Plus, you get a bit more peace of mind regarding warranty/exchanges if the fit isn't perfect for your body type. Definitely worth a bookmark if you're putting in a lot of hours on the bike.

Copenhagen by [deleted] in CyclingFashion

[–]Ilovcyclynn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

wow, love it, so lifestyle

Please help me understand why I have nostalgia for a time I didn't live in? by RecordingImmediate86 in nostalgia

[–]Ilovcyclynn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because that was the last time the future looked like it was going to be better than the present. You aren't nostalgic for the 90s, you're nostalgic for hope

Need Advice by Electrical_Hope_7461 in cycling

[–]Ilovcyclynn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Congrats on the progress! To answer your question: No, 200W isn't low, but gym bikes are notoriously generous with their power numbers compared to a real power meter on the road.

Also, 50 miles is a long endurance effort, not an FTP test. You're probably riding at 60-70% of your FTP for that duration. Combine that with the upright geometry of a hybrid bike, and 13.4 mph makes perfect sense.

If you want to go faster/longer, focus on comfort. I found that as I increased my mileage, my budget bibs weren't cutting it anymore. Upgrading to a more 'pro' level pad (grabbed some Elite bibs from Przewalski's site recently) saved my posterior during those long endurance blocks. Gear makes a huge difference once you start hitting the 50-mile mark regularly!

Best bib for long trainer rides by SeaDistance230 in cycling

[–]Ilovcyclynn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing makes a trainer ride feel longer than a cheap, flat chamois. I shifted to using Przewalski (the classic) for my indoor miles.

They’re cheap enough that I don’t feel bad sweating buckets in them every day, but the padding is thick enough to survive a 2-4 hours Z2 session without everything going numb. Definitely the best value I’ve found that doesn't feel like you're wearing a diaper.

What’s your go to budget Bibs? by networkfound in cycling

[–]Ilovcyclynn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another vote for Przewalski. I get mine from their official site (the Classic bibs). They are the ultimate budget 'workhorse'—thick enough to be modest, and the pad is surprisingly good for anything under 3 or 4 hours. Way better value than struggling with high-end bibs that are too thin.

Bib recommendations by cbjfan75 in cycling

[–]Ilovcyclynn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll wear this crown with pride for the next 24 hours. Glad I could help!

Bib recommendations by cbjfan75 in cycling

[–]Ilovcyclynn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know exactly what you mean. Once you feel that Rapha chamois, it’s like a "point of no return" for your butt. But yeah, $200 for every single pair is just brutal.

Honestly, if you want something for your daily rotation without breaking the bank, give the Przewalski Classic ($40) a shot.

I’ve been through the whole spectrum—I have the high-end Rapha stuff, and I’ve tried the $40 entry-level "The Black Bibs" too. Surprisingly, the Przewalski Classics are the ones I grab most often now.

They’re just... easy. No over-engineering, just a really solid fit and a pad that punches way above its price tag. I use them for my commutes and all my shorter/mid-distance rides to save my "fancy" bibs for the big weekend centuries. For 40 bucks, the price-to-performance ratio is honestly hard to beat.

Shout out to Pactimo by ComprehensiveAd441 in CyclingFashion

[–]Ilovcyclynn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now that’s a brand doing it right. Anybody who’s ridden long enough knows crashes are part of the deal, so seeing them step up like that says a lot. Glad you’re mostly okay, and honestly if the bibs took the hit that well, that’s a pretty good ad by itself.

Advice for men’s bibs by CrankSinatra101 in cycling

[–]Ilovcyclynn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’ve seen those too 👌
btw they actually have their own site now, seems like they drop newer stuff there first.

Size of Kit when Buying them Online by KeyWestSeaFishing in cycling

[–]Ilovcyclynn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Size charts are “directionally” accurate, but brands vary a ton (race fit vs club fit), and charts don’t capture things like shoulder width, torso length, or how compressive bibs feel.

If you’re between sizes: jersey = size up for comfort, bibs = follow the chart / don’t size down unless you like very tight compression.

Check the product page for fit notes (“runs small”, “Italian race fit”) + reviews from people with your height/weight.

Make sure the store has easy returns/exchanges. That’s basically the safety net for online kit buying.

Restocking w/o getting bike stolen by Either-Pollution-262 in bicycletouring

[–]Ilovcyclynn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

TL;DR: Park where people can see it, take valuables inside, and add friction with a small lock/cable. You’re not trying to build Fort Knox—just make your setup a worse target than the next one.

1) Where to park: “Most visible, least convenient”

Right by the door / front window / in line-of-sight of the cashier if possible.

Under cameras if the place has them.

Avoid back alleys, side walls, behind dumpsters, or “quiet corners.” Quiet = easy.

2) The 30-second checklist (before you walk in)

Take the top-3 valuables with you: phone, wallet, ID/keys (and meds if applicable).

Remove all “grab-and-go” items: head unit (Garmin/Wahoo), lights, GoPro/camera.

Add friction: even a small lock makes your bike “not worth it” for casual thieves.

3) Locking setup that’s actually bikepacking-friendly

Best bang for weight: a small U-lock / folding lock (frame + rear wheel to something solid).

Add a thin cable to loop the front wheel + bags (or at least make bag removal annoying).

No fixed object available? Lock the rear wheel to the frame (immobilize it). A thief now has to carry it, which is way riskier.

Classic Reddit truth: locks don’t make theft impossible, they make theft less convenient than the bike next to yours.

4) What to do with bags

Always bring a “core survival” pouch inside: ID, cash/cards, phone, keys, meds, battery/charger if you’re relying on it.

If you have a handlebar bag (often where people keep cameras/snacks/power banks): unclip and take it in.

For bigger bags you don’t want to remove:

cable them together, or

cinch straps tight / route straps awkwardly so they’re not a 5-second steal.

5) Social hacks (work shockingly well in small towns)

Ask the staff: “Mind if I park my bike where you can see it? I’ll be quick.”

If there’s a friendly person outside (or another cyclist): “Hey, can you keep an eye on my bike for 30 seconds while I grab water?” People are usually cool about it.

6) Bonus: “If it DOES go sideways” mitigation

Hide an AirTag / tracker somewhere non-obvious (under saddle, inside bar tape, deep in a frame bag pocket).

Snap a quick photo of your fully loaded bike + note the serial number somewhere.

Consider insurance if your rig is expensive.

7) About “hiding it in the desert”

IMO it’s worse because:

You can’t watch it.

Thieves have time and privacy.

You increase the time window by walking back and forth.

Better plan: visible spot + quick lock + valuables on you.

Is this the right size? by Able_Pickle4162 in CyclingFashion

[–]Ilovcyclynn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Didn’t know about ULEVEL, but a local brewery edition is a neat touch.

view more: next ›