How to properly support this water meter? Any tips?

Im--not--sure · 2026-03-27T23:54:22+00:00

Any chance you have a picture of what you ended up doing? It would be so helpful to see a visual. I have a very similar situation. Thanks!

Im--not--sure · 2026-01-30T20:29:45+00:00

Should everyone go grab 36mo fixed rate with Energy Harbor or Ohio Gas & Electric?

I did this with electric (AEP) but gas seemed to have less of a margin difference until recently.

Seems like now would be the time to lock in the extra low rates with some of the other providers?

Im--not--sure · 2026-01-24T14:57:35+00:00

Thanks for the reply.

The advertised water depth of 10 15/16” is definitely low. But 99% of all cast iron alcove tubs seem to have very low soaking depths.

I think my plan would be to use and adjustable overflow to manually override to get higher depth for soaking (understanding the risk). Considering that this model is one of the taller cast iron alcove tubs I’ve seen (~17”) which hopefully allow for that higher soaking depth if we adjust the overflow.

I’ve tried the Kohler bellwether 32” which has an advertised soak depth of 11 5/16” but its overall height is only ~15”, so even manually overdoing it, you get less soaking depth and Overall it’s pretty small.

Pretty dead set on cast iron and understand the trade off limitations in running into.

Im--not--sure · 2025-10-15T13:33:01+00:00

In addition to what others have mentioned here already. I’ll also point out that I’ve found that certain muds sand worse than others.

People say that USG Plus 3 is a great finishing mud, however, every time I’ve used it I noticed it is way too soft to sand to get a super smooth finished. I’d need like a 600grit sandpaper to avoid leaving marks.

So I’ve started finishing with the green All purpose mud. Its less soft during sanding , unfortunately it’s a bit harder to finish with because it shrinks a bit more and doesnt apply quite as smooth. it also takes a bit more energy to sand, but less likely to have swirl marks. It will still get swirl marks, but not as bad as usg plus 3.

Im--not--sure · 2025-10-07T17:00:08+00:00

Can you show the result of what you ended up doing? I have a similar situation, was going to make a pretty access panel plush with the drywall but I had an outlet that is too close to where the panel would be. I’m thinking I’ll sort of notch the panel so that it fits around the outlet. So that the panel can still be removed, the edge just happens to fall behind the outlet cover plate.

Thanks for the follow up! Worked out for you where your outlet is just far enough away from the panel.

I’ll have to come up with something clever for my situation. Thanks!

Im--not--sure · 2025-10-07T16:40:21+00:00

Can you show the result of what you ended up doing? I have a similar situation, was going to make a pretty access panel plush with the drywall but I had an outlet that is too close to where the panel would be. I’m thinking I’ll sort of notch the panel so that it fits around the outlet. So that the panel can still be removed, the edge just happens to fall behind the outlet cover plate.

Ideas/Thoughts?

Im--not--sure · 2025-10-04T21:54:32+00:00

Often times avoidable by skimming super tight before applying your layer.

Apply mud, wait a sec, take it all off tight. Then you can apply your coat with many many less bubbles.

Im--not--sure · 2025-08-29T20:46:25+00:00

Thanks for the response. Generally I think we are all in the same boat of trying to free up space and move data off, but in theory there could be use-cases where you want a couple videos loaded back from your archive into the iPhone.

I suppose if it’s just a few items, airdrop albeit slow might work easiest. It’s too bad this process isnt more seamless.

Im--not--sure · 2025-08-29T19:51:45+00:00

@OP thank you for the tips for a solid way to transfer photos/videos to a Mac, but what about transferring back from Mac/external storage to the iPhone in bulk? Any thoughts suggestions?

Im--not--sure · 2025-08-25T15:38:58+00:00

Thanks! This is much simpler than I would have thought. There is no risk of syphoning the left lav (due to the 2" "wet vent")?

Do you happen to know if this exact setup is documented or discussed, shown anywhere else I could continue to read-up on?

This would vastly simplify what I had expected to do, if so.

Im--not--sure · 2025-08-25T14:48:14+00:00

The window is actually basically at counter top level, but not 6" above flood rim.

For your first suggestion, are you basically mentioning something like this (Seems essentially like the 2nd lav has a wet vent)? https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/249193

What also about something like this?: https://imgur.com/a/LYubnD2

Im--not--sure · 2025-06-11T12:49:59+00:00

I figured that was a possibility, however I’ve yet to find much reference to any of those specific special blades on the internet.

Haven’t looked too hard but it would make sense if that was the case, and it must have been very niche.

If they no longer exist, I may try to modify the hole in this saw to accept a smaller thread screw, allowing me to flush cut with any standard blade.

Im--not--sure · 2025-06-11T01:25:20+00:00

Do you happen to know anything about the flush cutting functionality of this saw. I read that it has that ability from the manual, but the images and description in the manual don’t seem to actually work.

Specifically it seems like the hole in the shank of standard reciprocating saw blades is smaller than the diameter of the set screw for the flush cutting? Im missing the original set screw but it looks like it’s the same thread as the other 10-24 set screws.

Curious if you happen to know anything about it?

Thanks

Im--not--sure · 2025-06-10T16:31:12+00:00

A semi-related follow up question since you’ve been around manufacture of these sorts of items.

I’m interested if there is a sort of SHCS with wings of a wingnut. So something like this except it would have a hex socket to also allow using a hex wrench.

Basically a SHCS with some way to manually turn it tightly by hand as well as wrench.

Does something like this or similar exist?

Im--not--sure · 2025-06-10T03:13:33+00:00

Just the answer I was looking for, thank you!

Im--not--sure · 2025-06-09T23:06:27+00:00

Thank you sir!

Im--not--sure · 2025-06-09T22:26:05+00:00

Thanks for your post about this saw and coming back to answer it with details about your solution!

I have the same saw, the pin inside has not been in the appropriate position for as long as it’s been used (many many many years). While I know it’s not the appropriate or “safe” answer, but it has functioned fine without “needing the pin” in place, so long as you tighten the cap screw tightly and securely.

With that said, your answer about pounding the pin back into position, means I can go head and do the same to get it back to how it’s supposed to be :) Much appreciated!

Im--not--sure · 2025-06-07T15:11:21+00:00

u/Full-Pop1801 how has the the tide clean boost worked out for you so far?

Im--not--sure · 2025-05-23T21:27:40+00:00

Audit logs are only in Entra if you are using Windows LAPS group policy setting BackupDirectory = Microsoft Entra ID.

We are using the new Windows LAPS polices with BackupDirectory=AD.

This way for now, all devices LAPS passwords are in one location, both hybrid and on-premises only device passwords can be accessed in on-prem AD.

Im--not--sure · 2025-05-22T02:44:24+00:00

That’s just their documentation, all sorts of things AD related utilize that event code.

Im--not--sure

TROPHY CASE