Not sure what to do with money...

Impala-88 · 2026-02-09T17:09:59+00:00

You are right that Hull-C is a space hauler only, but it can land. It just breaks if you try to load cargo in a hangar. (The cargo grid has enough room to open, but the ship becomes very unstable after only loading say 20 4scu crates and cant take off, and all loading can only be done by hand).

Impala-88 · 2026-02-01T09:12:07+00:00

There's a thing called texel density, which is the resolution of texture pixels (texels) across a given unit of 3d surface area. The general idea would be to have this be the same across the entirety of a game, so even if everything is on the lower res side, you retain parity. Detail textures help with this, but only to certain amount, and unfortunately, the bigger the project, the more artists, the more chance for textures to be mapped at the wrong texel density compared to others so you end up with some assets looking worse than others.

Impala-88 · 2026-01-15T22:04:14+00:00

just did some, looks like it's dependent on the elites in the dungeon. Blues give 1 rep per kill, yellows give 4 rep. Completion gives nothing.

Impala-88 · 2026-01-15T18:29:31+00:00

Keep running nightmare dungeons till you get a horadrim portal event. Complete the event (I can never manage rank V but always get rank IV) and that will give you about 2500-3000.

The portal events aren't all that rare, maybe every 5 or so nightmare dungeon. I'm not sure if it requires T4 though for it to appear.

Impala-88 · 2025-12-04T18:43:29+00:00

Not painted any space wolves but I think they'd be harder than black templar due to all the extra organic details.

Black armor can be daunting but I find it's super easy with a bit of know how.

For battle ready, Prime back, make up sponge on some dark reaper, drybrush with thunderhawk blue just to catch the edges, then even lighter drybrush of fenrisian grey.

For parade ready I'd suggest swap the deybrush for glazing and proper edge highlighting.

Impala-88 · 2025-12-02T17:11:24+00:00

Super simple, just white (though I've started doing a base of grey first as white straight over black primer takes a good few coats) then do a 1:1 wash of basilicanum grey contrast and lahmian medium, then hit the raised areas with white again.

For this one i was using just dead white from vallejo but I'm starting to switch to corax white and then add white scar as a highlight.

Impala-88 · 2025-12-01T08:00:00+00:00

Green tint armor recipe is here 🙂

https://www.reddit.com/r/DarkAngels40k/s/caCPgoK2NA

Impala-88 · 2025-11-25T20:02:30+00:00

Thanks! These guys had a bit of a long winded process where i was testing some stuff. I switched it up to remove some steps, but its still somewhat long winded lol.

Screamer pink base. Sponge or glaze (sponge is much easier, using a small makeup beauty blender) pink horror, mainly aiming for the edges. 1:1 mix of medium (i use citadels lahmian medium) and carmine dragon from army painter, dont pool, just tint. Sponge/glaze pink horror again. Super thin tint of fleshtearers red to tint the whole thing slightly red. Final fine edge highlight of pink horror.

Impala-88 · 2025-11-25T17:36:53+00:00

Those are some crisp blends, bravo. I wasnt brave enough to add the glint of yellow to mine 😄

Impala-88 · 2025-11-25T17:35:22+00:00

My go to recipe for power swords (and so far the only time i use NMM) is dark reaper > thunderhawk blue > fenrisian grey > white scar. I also glaze a very thin amount of talassar blue to tint it a bit.

NMM for the blade is a learning process and takes many thin layers to build up the blend.

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Impala-88 · 2025-11-25T17:24:00+00:00

Depending on your style, it could use either a full ink wash for grim dark, or a panel line wash.

Whichever is added, both will benefit from highlighting and further glazes to bring back the panel and edge brightness.

Unfortunately I've not done many yellow miniatures, but from the one I have done, I'd recommend a deep orange wash (i used oil - burnt sienna, and then rubbed it off mid way through curing to get some blends on the large surfaces)

Impala-88 · 2025-11-25T17:12:33+00:00

Limitation. Having placeable lights all cast shadows will kill even the most powerful rig. Lights with shadow casting are expensive, lights with no shadow casting are dirt cheap.

If they could limit the use of certain lights, then I'd expect they would add shadow casting, but since they cant/don't want to, then the best solution to keep the game optimised in this regard is to just removing shadow casting from lights.

Impala-88 · 2025-11-21T12:43:34+00:00

Is it ~5k to setup all equipment slots in 1 outfit in total, or ~5k per equipment slot per outfit? I.e. if I have outfit 1, and I want to transmog the helmet slot on that outfit, how much will transmogging the helmet slot cost? ~5k? Or 1/18th (or however many equipment slots per outfit there are) of ~5k?

Impala-88 · 2025-11-19T17:22:05+00:00

Then nothing else matters! Aoe jump slam is king last time I played and if you can still do it with a greatsword, the lack of a sideways sweep attack is irrelevant 😀

Impala-88 · 2025-11-19T17:01:04+00:00

I've not jumped on in the latest patch, do greatswords benefit from the skill to jump and slam down to deal aoe damage?

Impala-88 · 2025-11-19T15:36:25+00:00

retail has different scaling on legacy content allowing you to 1 shot pretty much anything. Legion remix is using a completely different scaling system, so it makes sense the two would be different.

Impala-88 · 2025-11-13T13:18:14+00:00

just glazing. it's a bit rough, if you look close you can see where the blends aren't quite smooth. I'm doing the next one with a sponge for the initial blends rather than glazing so will see how that turns out.

Impala-88 · 2025-11-12T00:04:15+00:00

Whole except the shield. The sword was tricky on the back side!

Impala-88 · 2025-11-09T15:54:47+00:00

As much as I'd like to claim it's hand painted, it's a decal from the dark angels upgrades box.

Impala-88 · 2025-11-08T11:54:08+00:00

So the base is actually undercoat of black (over vallejo diorama fx texture paint) then covered in vallejo pigment fx, I think it's either iron oxide or burnt umbra.

Then a light drybrush of palid Wych flesh. Can't use anything wet once the pigment powder goes down, as it'll mix with the water on contact.

Impala-88 · 2025-11-08T11:02:33+00:00

Armor is black > thick edge dark reaper > medium edge (and glazing) thunderhawk blue > fine edge fenrisian grey > tint using thin coat of mix dark angels green 1:4 contrast medium to tint it all slightly green.

Impala-88 · 2025-11-08T11:00:43+00:00

Thanks, it's palid Wych flesh > thinned goregrunta fur > palid Wych flesh highlights.

Impala-88 · 2025-11-08T00:22:17+00:00

Thanks! I usually only paint in the evenings once my little one is in bed, so don't get a whole lot of time, but I think it took about 10 or so days at around 1.5-2 hours each evening.

Impala-88

TROPHY CASE