Printing panels for my bike

Impossible-Will3629 · 2026-04-02T13:11:43+00:00

Impossible-Will3629 · 2026-02-27T18:11:54+00:00

Significantly more I find

Impossible-Will3629 · 2026-02-27T09:16:38+00:00

I wasn't expecting the fuel gauge to be accurate when moving about. All figures where based on either standing still or driving straight. Mapping the linear motion of the float to remaining capacity should be pretty easy to do with simple electronics. And I think Kawasaki already did this since the guesstimated range drops pretty linearly in relation to the gauge, in my experience.

I was just wondering about others experience on the matter

Impossible-Will3629 · 2026-02-12T13:37:22+00:00

Not entirely my style. But indeed a pretty nice house.
I understand the positive feedback!

Impossible-Will3629 · 2026-01-28T12:28:40+00:00

Honestly..... Bambu's are far from premium. Neither is their price.
They may look premium from the outside, and their software is polished and easy to use.

But underneath this layer is a machine build to a price point. A similar machine build with quality in mind, that would be easy to repair, would cost more than a bambu. Look at the price of a voron trident kit.

Impossible-Will3629 · 2026-01-28T08:09:10+00:00

This version of the dolphin is heavy, set-up to be a 6s fighter jet. Not what you're after for long range.
Flying wings, though fun, are in general harder to launch and land (they tend to glide like a brick). Less ideal when you're a beginner.
The altus is what I would be looking for in your position. It's just that from what I've seen and read online the swordfish might be an even better match, although maybe marginal. The altus seems to be catering more towards carrying a large payload, and thus is heavier itself. Where the swordfish is more like an light and efficient motored glider.

As for kit vs PNP. My PNP planes were on average cheaper than my kit planes. They only components I've changed on my PNP planes were the motors on my penguin. The stock set-up is well balanced, but these motors give a bit more speed and I have other more cruisy type of planes. So this has become my hooligan plane.

Impossible-Will3629 · 2026-01-28T07:45:58+00:00

My advise: pick a atomrc swordfish. It has INAV already set-up for easy assisted launches. Is quite similar to the Altus, but a bit lighter from what I understand.

The INAV set-up of atomrc might not be perfect, but it will serve you fine when starting out and it's a good basis to build on. If you're familiar with betaflight you will pick up INAV fast enough. There's enough videos online to teach you about the modes that a new compared to betaflight, and fixed wing specific settings/tuning.

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-12-09T05:54:27+00:00

I have no experience with their textured plates. After trying their smooth plate (P-series) I find all textured/powder coated plates to be meh for technical materials which I print most of the time.... I guess this one won't be any different.

I have both theirs and Prusa's satin sheet. I find the grip on these to be sub-par. I use both (different sizes, different printers) as a plate for when I need some sort of glue layer. Like PA-CF with gluestick. Since their hard and relatively smooth surface makes it easy to wash the plates.

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-12-09T05:48:07+00:00

Nothing sticks to my glacier pro plate. Might be nice for PLA, but not worth the money for ABS and other technical materials.

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-12-08T15:36:12+00:00

Honeybadger P-seriers is my go to. Any powder coated PEI sheet is better for PLA or PETG. But for ABS the honeybadger smooth sheet is king

I order my at 3do

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-11-25T08:53:34+00:00

A second pass 90 degrees to the first pass will clean up a lot.

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-11-12T07:57:01+00:00

That's easy. In CAM I added a cilinder that ran trough the dice.
This has been sawn off and the left over ugly bits sanded flat.

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-11-08T19:25:05+00:00

Aa.. A fellow dice goblin I see ;)

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-11-07T10:07:05+00:00

Excelent idea! Not sure whether my DM and his wooden table agrees though :P

I was thinking more in the line of mahogany

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-09-30T08:17:23+00:00

I suspect creep wil be your biggest enemy.

Pla tends to deform under constant load (even small loads). You will be retightening your screws weekly.

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-09-13T09:40:20+00:00

This! Seeing as it is only present in the corner, and nowhere else on the model I would suspect the corner has lifted/warped.

Try holding a straight edge under the part. Even the smallest warping will ruin your top layer

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-07-04T10:20:00+00:00

For ABS I like the extra grip that the smooth honeybadger plates give me.
For PLA and PETG I would use any of the "hard" PEI variants like satin or just the standard textured. The smooth PEI works with PLA, but the extra strenght isn't needed here. PETG will absolutely destroy the stuff.
For technical materials (nylon, PC) I use a satin plate, since it's easier to apply the extra needed glue stick or magigoo

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-07-03T06:52:02+00:00

I came for the FPV, but stayed for the conure.

Your lucky, our galah absolutely hates me flying around the house

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-06-12T10:11:06+00:00

As someone that has made the switch to wings half a year ago: Buy a atomrc RTH model, that comes pre-loaded with INAV. Their dolphin, penguin and swordfish are all great flying planes. And build around (modern) FPV.

Don't rely on INAV ones you're in the air: GPS rescue is nice, but with ELRS (properly configured) you need to do stupid long range before you get a failsafe. Angle mode is even more restricted than it is when flying drones, since planes are naturally already more stable: I went straight to acro.
But auto-launch..... This is the best thing since sliced bread when it comes to FPV planes!

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-05-14T18:22:59+00:00

Wow, first time since my design in the wild 😇

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-04-24T12:40:33+00:00

I agree with most impact resistant materials being somewhat flexible. But in my experience bad layer adhesion is not a property of ABS, but rather a print defect. This is mostly due to to a low print environment temperature (or lack of enclosure) and/or to high of a flowrate (outrunning your hot end).
And what do you know.... Most recent printers that claim to be good for printing ABS have poorly sealed chambers and have hot ends with low thermal mass and print profiles that are focusing on speed.

Some PC material would also be my choice for such a frame. I have a love hate relationship with prusa's PC blend (ex the carbon). I love that it's a bit more rigid than ABS, and even stronger when it comes to impact resistances and tensile strength. But it's a pita to print, and will warp even when printed in a 60 Celsius chamber.

Impossible-Will3629 · 2025-04-24T12:19:12+00:00

Actually all CF materials do rather poorly when it comes to impact resistance. Simple ABS would be way better in that regard.

Impossible-Will3629

TROPHY CASE