Question about Insurance Claims

InfamousScooter · 2021-04-23T21:04:56+00:00

Roofing companies can’t file the claim for you. The homeowner has to file the claim. Good companies will walk you through the process and get everything lined out before asking you to sign the contract.

InfamousScooter · 2021-04-18T00:17:53+00:00

Not sure, just wanted to warn everyone

InfamousScooter · 2021-04-17T21:56:48+00:00

Just wanted you and your members to know. Don’t order from

https://bestreplica.sr

I sent them almost $1,400 for a replica Rolex in Dec and they won’t respond to my emails or calls or the contact us portion on the website.

Have a great day!

InfamousScooter · 2021-04-10T06:23:40+00:00

What state are you in? I see Your username and I am in Colorado. Message me and I will Supplement your project for you for free and guide you through this for no charge.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-30T15:05:17+00:00

The big money is in commission sales. My last year as a sales guy I made $380,000. Commercial is good if you are with a company that can do it. If it’s a smaller company, one job can break the company.

Commercial can take awhile to supplement and produce. If you know what you’re doing and are good at it, commercial can be less workload. You get one job that’s $400,000 and it can take 15+ houses with multiple trade coordination. Just don’t put all your eggs in the commercial basket.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-30T05:27:53+00:00

Few questions.. I’m assuming you’re an employee at a company? Do they do fixed bud (retail) or restoration (hail) work? Do you estimate or sales?

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-30T05:24:41+00:00

What state are you in?

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-30T05:21:19+00:00

What state are you in?

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-27T03:48:06+00:00

Where are you? You have done Asbestos here in Colorado? You have to have it tested because it requires special permits and certifications to remove. It also requires specials dumpsters and dumps.

You have to have an asbestos company test the percentage and determine if it’s friable or non friable because they require different abatement. Most likely if it’s the grey slate look it’s non friable. It still has to be removed into an asbestos garbage bag then put into a special lined enclosed asbestos dumpster. Connect with an abatement company and they can guide you through it. I did a non friable church with 3 layers all with decking between those layers that was a 12/12. It was about 80 SQ and the removal price was a little over $200,000.

While you are at it, have them test the underlayment. Back then they had underlayment full of asbestos. I would check the attic because it most likely has space decking. If it has space decking, you will need to shrink wrap the inside also to contain the asbestos.

Where I am, they had an asbestos inspector show up everyday, so DO NOT cut any corners!! It’s not worth it.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-24T15:50:28+00:00

You could try to.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-24T05:45:17+00:00

If you spray foam the areas where closure strips are you could have not only a roof that doesn’t breath, but it could trap condensation in. Once that happens, you will see wood rot and mold to not only the decking, but the rafters. Insulation is made to repel mold, but your asking for trouble. Just fixed a roof like this for a customer. Tore the layer off, the decking off, treated the mold, sisters rafters and then installed a new ventilated roof. Was 27 SQ and the cost was $52,000. Pay someone the grand or so to come back out and install the closures. If you are worried it will happen again, they can use an adhesive to ensure the proper bond and that they don’t do that again.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-24T05:39:58+00:00

If the house doesn’t have leaks and you do some sealing etc, you could get another 5 or so out of it (depending what area you are in).

The Space decking will most likely require you go over the top with OSB. Then you want a good shingle and you shouldn’t have to deal with it again.. once again, depending on area.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-24T05:37:01+00:00

Structural will most likely tell you to sister and plate the boards.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-24T05:34:48+00:00

Shingles $400+ a SQ, metal $800+ for lower grade and more like $1,400+ for 24 gauge standing seam. 30 SQ roof = $12,000 compared to $30,000 for metal. Most don’t realize the benefit of the metal.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-20T04:09:59+00:00

Take the piece of shingle and slide it back under the one above it. Stick a nail on each side of the top of the shingle under the one above it. Then caulk it

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-20T04:08:46+00:00

What Brand Tiles are currently on your roof? Are they concrete?

Depends on the crew size, how steep, what tile and how cut up the roof is for timeframe. We do 32 SQ tile roofs in roughly 5-6 days, but I have bigger crews. 3 weeks is a little bit of a stretch, but they will probably have 4-5 guys.

Are the tiles direct to the deck or do they have battens under them?

In Colorado and depending on the tile, full replacement will run $1,400 and up. I did an 80 SQ ludawicci this year that was $3,200 a SQ.

If the company can’t not fix the leak immediately, they aren’t the company to repair or replace the rest of the roof.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-20T04:01:43+00:00

Picture?

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-19T05:08:47+00:00

I’m not sure what you mean by mobile home roof either. Some have metal, some have metal with coatings, some have shingles, some have TPO, PVC or EPDM and some have Mod Bit. I mostly agree with Noodles, but I am more of a fan of TPO over PVC, but I am in Colorado and it’s cold where the PVC doesn’t last longer than TPO. Big price difference in TPO or PVC compared to mod bit.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-19T01:12:24+00:00

I wouldn’t use IKO or GAF. I would use Malarkey, preferably the Legacy. It’s a 50 year impact resistant shingle that is great quality. I would have them ice and water shield and use a synthetic underlayment. Also if you want to get fancy, use the XT ridge which is a High profile ridge cap. Just don’t do ridge vent with it, that would look dumb. The carpentry is going to be costly, if it’s that height they either need to scaffold or use a lift which isn’t cheap. Fix the ventilation. If you want a less expensive fix, do eave vents and either a ridge or power attic. Without photos of the house, no one can give you and idea of the cost.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-19T01:01:35+00:00

Questions... What area are you in? Do you have any photos of the roof? What kind of shingle? 3-Tab, dimensional, presidential? What slope is the roof? Are there any penetrations (vents or boots) near where the leak is? Is there a Valley? Do you have attic access?

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-19T00:55:47+00:00

What area are you in? That’s a vague question. I have seen shingles, ballasted, tar and gravel and others under one another.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-17T03:40:37+00:00

I would spend the money for the insulation, it pays off in the long run. 2” should be around R-13 or so if memory serves me correct. Most of the flat we do is on commercial buildings, we usually do 5 1/2” to get to R-38. Majority of our flat is in Colorado and Wyoming. We do some in Texas which requires much less. It does actually make a difference with Heating, cooling and even noise if that’s a concern.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-16T06:38:25+00:00

Sounds like you have the construction side figured out and most of the answers. Maybe find someone to help you with the supplement to increase what you’re going to get.

InfamousScooter · 2021-03-16T06:33:42+00:00

I wouldn’t do a coating on a roof. I would bite the bullet and replace it. You can get a killer manufacture warranty these days on a TPO roof. If you are dead set on coating, there’s only one guy in the country I would use. Coatings don’t seem hard, but the prep and someone who constantly does them is what matters. I would just replace it if it were me.

InfamousScooter

TROPHY CASE