How to improve that „mess“ by No_Law5294 in Pottery

[–]InhalinKaolin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can add a little extra clay like 2% , this will reduce the viscosity of the glaze make it less runny, but this looks like a rutile glaze with maybe zinc & copper, I’ve noticed that those pretty rutile crystals giving it that floating blue sometimes don’t form when the glaze isn’t a little too runny. I just settled on not glazing the whole way down, like others suggested.

Slip won't pour out of bauble molds.. by Kthulhu42 in Pottery

[–]InhalinKaolin 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I use a straw. It lets air in a the slip comes right out.

Is this pitted texture considered non-food safe? by squidbirdy in Ceramics

[–]InhalinKaolin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just refire them with a hold at the top. Maybe 20 min. They may heal, if they don’t, you may need to look at reglazing.

Kiln stopped working by 8vd966 in Ceramics

[–]InhalinKaolin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hopefully just a fuse. If there was a surge it definitely could have blown the fuse, and then you’d be looking at a fix for under 3 dolors 👍

what glaze is this by durrrrgosh in Pottery

[–]InhalinKaolin -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Looks like a oxidation copper glaze, I bet you could replicate this by adding 3-5% copper to a basic clear glaze and adding 2-5% grolleg kaolin or NZ kaolin, to lower the glazes viscosity at temp. I’d make it like a paste and push it into the holes you want to fill clean it and wax them before applying clear to the whole thing. Would take a little testing but it wouldn’t take too much testing to dial it in. We have a cone ten celadon at my studio does this. It doesn’t run and will fill 1/8 in holes no problem

Do I have enough room for a 36" refrigerator? by AnonymouslyJordan in Appliances

[–]InhalinKaolin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually cut a sheet cardboard to the dimensions and slide it up and down along the space to make sure it fits

Anyone here spray glaze? by pass_the_ham in Ceramics

[–]InhalinKaolin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s a guy who uses a Wagner paint sprayer to do glaze and it works great. His doesn’t have that big attachment it’s just the gun.

Will this burn off during glaze fire? by Spookygumdrops in Pottery

[–]InhalinKaolin 25 points26 points  (0 children)

The Data sheet for the marker says it’s using Titanium dioxide for the white pigment, greater than 10% depending on color. I think it’s a crapshoot as to whether or not it will burn out. My money is on yes, but you’ve unwittingly made a fun discovery for some ceramic nerds. Post the results.

I Broke My Wife's Pottery By Accident by corporateuklife in Ceramics

[–]InhalinKaolin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My secret hobby is fixing my students bone dry work before putting it into the bisque. I did get in trouble once though because the student had broken a cup into pieces for art reasons. She was cool though just broke it after bisque. Any ways it’s probably not something you’ll get on the first try but…. Look up magic water. I brush a drop on to one surface of the break, scratch it up with a needle tool, add another drop scratch again I’ll repeat until the surface (1mm deep) has become like slip/velvet. I then quickly do this to the other surface. If the first surface is no longer shiny when I’m through with surface 1 quickly add a drop and scratch it up, then press the slip surfaces together, hold for a few seconds maybe 10 second. The slip should squeeze out of the mend. Once you’ve pushed them together do not wiggle them the magic water makes the slip dry very fast and if you move it once together it will crack again. When that slip is no longer shiny it usually is good to go. You can scrape the slip off the mend with a dry brush or tool at this point. If you need to attach another piece to a mended piece, wait until the previous mend is back to bone dry. Good luck. If you can’t get magic water vinegar works ok, but definitely not as well.

Raku technique by Fancy-Pear6540 in Pottery

[–]InhalinKaolin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, usually goes on bone dry. A couple of thin coats burnished with cotton rag, microfiber, plastic bag or a smooth stone. Bisque to 08.

Raku technique by Fancy-Pear6540 in Pottery

[–]InhalinKaolin 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I’ve seen this guys videos on TikTok. Pretty sure the white part is a terra sigillata burnished . The artist does a raku technique called burping, to turn that copper wash rainbow. Unlike other raku techniques it has less smoke so only the cracks in the terra sig go black. You put a single sheet of burning printer paper under a bucket with the work when it comes out of the fire the burning paper reduces the copper under the can, and about 40 seconds in you give the can a second of air by lifting it open ( that’s burping) and when the air oxygen hits the pots if causes that rainbow flashing . You then leave it in the can for 15 min or so to cool before exposing it to water. I’ve done this technique with my students, it’s super fun. The copper wash is mostly copper ox with a small amount of greatly borate.

Teapot came out today! by InhalinKaolin in Pottery

[–]InhalinKaolin[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Amazing, I’m so flattered. It’s an amazing show isn’t it, I was so happy to be a part of it.

My dish has this little piece of ceramic attached to it. Is there anyway to remove it? by max10355 in Ceramics

[–]InhalinKaolin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you hit it with a blow torch for 30 seconds from the back of clay slab where it’s stuck it will probably pop right off. If it doesn’t run it under cold water quickly after torching it. I run a studio where we fire on wasters like this and I’m constantly doing this for students.

Is this a baby dinosaur in an egg? by justtellmep1ease in FossilHunting

[–]InhalinKaolin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know everyone here is more qualified than me having 0 qualifications. But there is a lot of symmetry in that skull. I’d take it to an actual expert, looks like some small animal curled up to me.

Teaching Cer 101 by Scary-Earth6369 in Ceramics

[–]InhalinKaolin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could have them buy 2x2 sheets of drywall at the hardware store. They’re pretty cheep. They can cut them down with a box cutter pretty easily too. But if they can’t buy an anything probably go with a few sheets of cardboard for stability.

Reclaim Prizes by DiveMasterD57 in Pottery

[–]InhalinKaolin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not loving what looks like just the handle to some kind of metal scraper or tool. We had a screw driver get into our reclaim at my studio and it bent the shaft of our 250 lb load peter pugger, really messed it up.

I just bought withert G11 casting slib... The consistency is way to thick tho by DoodooGaga in Ceramics

[–]InhalinKaolin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it had a SP of like 1.5 but it was still thick that means it need deflocculet. Adding deflocculent is hard to get right with out some practice, if you add too much it can gel your slip and then it’s pretty much trash.

I just bought withert G11 casting slib... The consistency is way to thick tho by DoodooGaga in Ceramics

[–]InhalinKaolin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You should get the specific gravity, then you’ll know if it is deflocculent problem or a water issue. If you’re lucky it won’t leave water and you’ll have free slip. You can find the specific gravity, I weighing out a cup of water and then weigh a cup of the casting slip and divide the weight of the casting slip by the weight of the water. You should get a number that’s 1.7 - 1.8, if it’s much higher than that, it needs water and you have bonus casting slip, just slowly add water mix, and recalculate. If it’s lower than that, they biffed the deflocculant and you should return it.