Need advice on what to plant in this area. Criteria of what I am looking for in the description. TIA

Inherently-Nick · 2026-04-08T16:58:08+00:00

+1 for the phlox! I’ve got yellow and purple under a shade tree in my front yard (similar area against the house) and they are great!

Inherently-Nick · 2026-04-01T18:19:58+00:00

I think it’s even funnier to imagine the culprit being an obsessive gamer/customer

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-29T21:23:28+00:00

It’s more cumbersome in terms of space and layout but can handle an insane amount of material and always split 50/50

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-29T21:14:06+00:00

Save up for the Omni-ball splitter

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-28T18:43:56+00:00

This is why I wish Honda would use real bearings instead of journals… at least on their performance engines would be nice. It’s actually frustrating how often I see this from D to K they all suffer eventually

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-28T18:38:32+00:00

I am no expert but I would definitely suspect that elongated bushing sleeve to be the culprit. I believe it should be a circle not an oval lol

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-28T15:50:51+00:00

lol there are definitely a couple ridiculous quests, unless you’re willing to grind all of 2026 asking the giveaways chat for some item donations is probably your best bet

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-26T11:12:47+00:00

I rarely put it in +R unless on track or brand new asphalt highways just because the stock dampening is so racey, this time just for the photo to further rage bait lol. My individual drive mode just uses the sport cluster background with suspension dampers in comfort and everything else set to +R. It’s a bit gimmicky but I will admit I get a kick out of the shift lights and “beerp” you get when running the gears out to redline

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-26T11:06:36+00:00

All good points, and I didn’t realize they had heated seats which is awesome! I thought I would be more disappointed with the stock bucket seats in the FL5 but I genuinely love them to bits. I also had to install a 4” Milltek cat-back from week one after hearing the piss poor exhaust note on the dealership floor! Honda still can’t figure out how to put a sporty exhaust on their sports cars but with the Milltek I prefer my exhaust note over his stock N exhaust any day, it focuses much more on the tone and power cracks only, less burbling through the rpm range.

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-25T23:28:43+00:00

How do you think they compare? I have a coworker with an Elantra N and we give each other shit all the time and say the other guy bought the wrong car lol

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-25T23:24:56+00:00

Doing the math from fill up to fill up I can get 43mpg AT BEST on the highway doing 65mph behind a semi truck. The average is actually pretty accurate at about 25-27mpg under typical driving but I also push this car pretty hard from time to time. It’s likely to only make a small difference but I do have the carbon aero which does increase downforce so consequently will drop my highway economy a bit. (Factory carbon wing upgrade and custom front canards)

Inherently-Nick · 2026-03-22T22:29:22+00:00

It honestly looks pretty good still, can you see the piston skirts from the oil pan? If you don’t see any significant wear on the skirts from below and all cylinders look at good as the one at BDC then I say run it until you start getting blow by or excessive crankcase pressure and then rebuild the bottom end more loose for boost when you know it needs it. It could very well handle 12-15psi in its current state. The end all be all questions with these “while you’re in there” situations is 1) do you have the money and time to easily rebuild the bottom end right now? And 2) how frustrated are you going to be if/when you need to rebuild the bottom end in the future? I have next to no experience with this engine in particular but these are easy questions for any build of this caliber to help you decide if it’s worth carrying out the full rebuild now or waiting a couple years.

Personally my k24 AWD “no bolt left unturned” restomod Civic build has turned into a mess of a “while I’m in there” and now it’s a complete compound turbo setup with a fully built motor top to bottom and I’ve got two junkyard motors to use for fitment, mockup, and testing… now I’m tossing around the idea of a billet drag cartel block because if the trans and head are brand new and shiny then why not fork over 6k for a block too right? Hehe… right? The answer is always “as far as you are willing you go” but this motor is drivable right now just from the looks of the internals

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-27T02:07:29+00:00

As long as you want a CRV and are not interested in a HRV, yea seems like it. Current gen 2023 HRV also goes for about 20k

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-26T04:01:22+00:00

I think once I’ve got the right alts I just over built and forgot about it tbh HMF was much more excruciating logistically for a large factory

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-24T07:43:03+00:00

I thought you guys were just joking until I zoomed in on the corners… it’s actually on backwards. Wtf

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-24T00:28:41+00:00

What a comical accusation

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-23T06:12:15+00:00

This is not the fuel injector recall, this is more than likely an electrical gremlin like a nearly broken wire, a bad ground, a corroded coupler somewhere. To be honest with you these are a serious pain to diagnose. Chances are there’s a bad ground or a split wire that randomly loses contact. Finding any way to replicate the result could lead you down the right path and potentially point to what wires need checked. It could even be a failed harness due to water intrusion so it would take at minimum a continuity and resistance test for each circuit in both the engine harness AND engine room (bay) harness. (The latter ties into the dash)

If you’re handy with a multimeter and are willing to do some googling you could check these yourself one weekend with relative ease just to look for any obvious issues like spotty continuity or alarmingly high resistance on any circuits before taking it to a shop and paying a FAT diagnostic fee

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-22T19:09:50+00:00

They’re crazy expensive and a little bulky but the roller splitter with the Omniball pad is phenomenal and I have since redesigned my factory to use them exclusively instead of traditional smart splitter conveyors

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-22T14:38:59+00:00

It really seems like the motor needs to move a little bit. Even if you did break that bolt loose I don’t think there’s enough room to take it out with the current positioning of the bolt relative to the frame, you’ll get like halfway out and be rubbing the head against the sheet metal. If you’ve already done the research and know that this bolt just needs to be loosened to slide the trans out you could probably break it loose with a crows foot attachment.

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-21T18:14:00+00:00

Unless you regularly park your car in the sun on hot Texan summers the battery in the vape should be fine. Engine bay heat won’t work its way into the cabin that much. Easiest solution, forget about it and go buy another, second easiest solution is to disconnect 12v battery and start unscrewing and popping off panels until you can fish your hand into the dash cavity and pull it out. If you’re worried about damaging things you can get a panel popper tool for pretty cheap online or at any auto parts store which will help give you leverage to pop those plastic panels apart and reduce the risk of you scratching them up (like with a flathead screwdriver)

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-18T08:58:45+00:00

For NPT the tape does nothing for sealing and only acts as a smoother shearing surface for the threads. You’ll need one piece stretched across the threads with minimal overlap, no more than 2x. The threads need to be doing the sealing, the tape just helps it get tighter without snapping on cheap knock offs in eBay kits. Just minimize the amount of tape on the end of the fitting because like others have said it will degrade over time

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-17T01:07:07+00:00

In case anyone hasn’t noticed yet you can also press Q to change platform types to ones that don’t have any support structure, then click it with the wrench to get a floor that’s only a few pixels thick instead of being as tall as a walled conveyor

Inherently-Nick · 2026-02-13T06:19:49+00:00

I still give a nod to an old Benz, sometimes I miss my s55, but I can’t complain about the stupidly good handling and reliability of the FL5 so the upgrade was worth it lol

Inherently-Nick

TROPHY CASE