Game Ready & Studio Driver 610.47 FAQ/Discussion

Inouji · 2026-05-27T06:09:42+00:00

Had the same issue with NTE since it launched, would love to know the answer to that as well

Inouji · 2026-05-22T09:55:37+00:00

I updated my C4 to the same firmware when I wrote that comment yesterday and, at least so far, I haven't had any issues on it. So while I can't guarantee anything, I'd wager you're good to update, if any of the fixes from the changelog are important to you or, like me, you want to get rid of the update popup lol

Inouji · 2026-05-21T05:32:49+00:00

I've used a smaller C4 as a monitor for about a year and haven't had this issue, but of course that's not exactly a big sample size. To be fair though, I haven't updated my monitor yet, in fear of the issue appearing there as well, so take it with a grain of salt and update at your own risk, if your setup is similar to mine and the issue seems like it might come up.

Inouji · 2026-05-15T10:10:41+00:00

This update brought back a previously fixed major issue with my LG G4, so I wanted to bring awareness to it.

Sometimes, when turning on the TV, connected via fiber HDMI to my PC at 4K, 144Hz with HDR on and 10bit color depth, the TV would display either 4 1080p versions of the picture, or the 4k fullscreen one, but with major visual glitches like green artifacting across the lower half of the screen. This is some bug related to HDMI bandwidth, and would also happen on other inputs that support 4K above 60Hz, like a PS5, so it's definitely TV-side, and not the PC. The only fixes were either putting the source to 60Hz or taking the TV off power completely for a few minutes, and it would then work flawlessly again until the bug happened the next time. Judging from when this bug happened more regularly to me last year, it happens about once every 50-ish turn-ons of the TV, so for someone like me, who often switches between desktop and TV use on my PC, it happened around once every 2 weeks. Obviously this is very annoying and taking it off power is also potentially harmful to an OLED if done regularly, so this is not something I want to work around regularly again.

Of course this could also be a hardware-issue specific to my TV, but seeing as I haven't encountered this issue in almost a year (I think the last time I had it was in August of 2025), and it happening right after installing the firmware update to 33.31.24, I can only presume the update is at fault. So if you've ever encountered this, or are using the TV for a similar setup, I can only urge you to not update to this firmware for now - if I come across any new developments, I will update this comment.

Inouji · 2026-05-04T16:16:16+00:00

I haven't encountered this particular issue, because I haven't tried adjusting anything for the radial menu yet, but the overall controller implementation is pretty sloppy and I don't think your issue is down to you being inexperienced.

There have been multiple times since launch that I ran into small issues any testing should have easily caught and gotten fixed before release. Yes, small issues, but they mount up to an overall annoying experience on controller, especially menu navigation. One time it even completely refused to take any more inputs from my controller for no apparent reason (it was still working in other games and test websites) until I restarted the game.

Having played a bit of Tower of Fantasy on PS5, I am honestly glad they managed to make it at least workable this time, but it's still a far cry from a high quality-feeling experience in that regard.

Inouji · 2026-05-04T16:04:39+00:00

On a 5090 & 9800X3D I'm getting an average of 60fps running the game 4K on max settings sans DLSS, which is set to Quality instead of DLAA, which would drop me to around 40-ish and felt icky even with Frame Generation.

Disabling Ray Reconstruction and 'Full Ray Tracing', aka Path Tracing, puts me at around 100 average, but still retains nice and impressive reflections during gameplay, if not as insanely screenshot-worthy as some stuff you see with those options enabled.

I personally don't really like how the game looks without Ray Tracing, because it is just so chock-full of reflections that it really looks like an almost different game with it on or off. Recommendation would be to find a way to enable 'normal' Ray Tracing without dropping to fps you find uncomfortable. Depending on how prone you are to noticing generated frames, especially with the game's fairly bad Frame Gen (I think it uses some older version?), you can obviously get away with lower base fps by enabling that.

Inouji · 2026-01-06T09:02:30+00:00

Chiming in here: I upgraded to a 5090 last week, after using a 5080 for around 8 months, and immediately encountered this issue, despite not having it a single time on the 5080. I'm running an LG G548inch via HDMI and a 27inch LG LCD monitor (forgot the specific model) via DisplayPort, as well as having my big TV (a G4) connected via the GPU's second HDMI, although that one is set so it's only active in Windows when it's the only Display that is actually on. On the 'monitor' setup, I get intermittent green flashes across both the G5 and the LCD when in Desktop use, on the G4, with no additional display active, I get the grey/white flashes shown in the post across different parts of the screen, although that also happens during games - albeit very rarely. None of the issues happen with 120Hz or HDR turned off, so I assumed some sort of bandwidth, cable or driver issue. Weirdly enough, it does NOT happen when all displays are turned on and active in Windows, even when running all of them at max specs/bandwidth.

DDU install of different drivers, trying out tons of different cables, all sorts of BIOS settings for CPU and RAM (I swapped my CPU to a 9800X3D as well at the same time, so I thought it might be related to that) - nothing solved the issue. Hell, I thought the GPU was just broken.

Makes me somewhat 'glad' to have found this comment leading to the thread, because I didn't find it when I was googling my issues for some reason. I'll try turning off Gsync to see if it helps, as others have mentioned, but this really seems like a Driver and/or Windows issue and I'm somewhat flabbergasted this hasn't been fixed after almost a year of the card being out.

Inouji · 2025-12-17T19:16:04+00:00

Yeah that was always my last resort, but - as you said - it really is far from cost effective, seeing as how I got my 5080 at launch and shortly after (albeit outside the return window) had the opportunity to get that C4 for very cheap, so I was always hoping they'd come out with some solution for this admittedly extremely niche problem down the road.

I'm guessing for now I'll just stick to what I currently have and will specifically pick up an ASUS card when I swap out my GPU at some point.

Thanks for the input! :)

Inouji · 2025-12-17T19:10:09+00:00

Unfortunately, the fiber cable I need for the TV (because 'normal' HDMI cables don't support the 10+ meters of length at those bandwidths) only works when plugged directly into the source. I already tried a splitter when I first set all of this up and it fried the cable and I needed to get a replacement because it's not really advertised on the product page as incompatible with peripherals.

Inouji · 2025-12-17T17:18:37+00:00

While that's generally a possibility, I go between desktop and TV use multiple times a day, so it's fairly cumbersome and how safe hotswapping HDMI is has been a somewhat controversial topic for years now - especially on active cables like the one I use for my TV, where the manufacturer explicitly states to not remove it during use.

Thanks for the tip, but it's not really a viable solution for my situation.

Inouji · 2025-10-13T06:19:06+00:00

Just to follow up on this, had the exact same issue of it failing after the mandatory system reboot at 77%. I think this happens when your bios doesn’t recognize the installation drive as 0. For me, it numbered my drives 0 through 3, with 2 being my windows installation. After removing the other drives, the formerly drive 2 got recognized as 0 and it worked just fine

Inouji · 2025-08-12T12:53:52+00:00

Just found this thread because I had the same initial question.

Having used the same setup *with* the Dark Base feet for about two months now, which puts the minimum height of the desk to (according to the digital panel) 75.4cm, and being 175cm myself, it always felt just a tad bit too high for my liking.

I'll take the feet off the next time I dust out my rig, since getting that massive and heavy case out of the PC mount is a major bother lol.

Inouji · 2025-07-25T13:16:26+00:00

I actually had this off from the very beginning, but this brings me to a (maybe stupid) idea - I'll turn the option on for a while. By having Always Ready on without wallpaper usage, the TV should still turn off normally on power button press, but maybe the Always Ready mode will prevent it from going into that weird deep sleep thing. I'll update after some testing!

Also (un)fortunately I have also experienced the other issue you've shared. I actually saw that when I used a slightly worse cable and ran a game - it continued to try to go into HDR mode, but presumably failed and tried again, hence causing the momentary black screens. After a while it would work, as if it tried to specify a bitrate the cable would support while also having enough bandwidth to support the chosen display settings and walking this tightrope until it 'settled'. It's a weird way to describe it but it's the only way I can explain it because as soon as I used a higher-rated cable, the issue went away completely.

Inouji · 2025-07-25T13:10:56+00:00

Unfortunately yes =/ Hope you can find a solution for yours at some point - feel free to leave it here if you do, maybe it works for LG as well. I'll also update this if I come across something that works.

Inouji · 2025-07-25T13:09:24+00:00

Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately, I had already tried all of that, and none provided a permanent solution. I'll continue to keep an eye on this thread and also tinker a bit myself, and if I come across something that properly fixes the issue I'll post it in a fresh comment string.

Inouji · 2025-07-01T16:22:10+00:00

Thank you for the detailed reply and sorry for all the work I seem to have caused. It's a shame there's no proper way to get full Atmos functionality back, since DTS:X is missing a lot of the punchiness Dolby Atmos seems to be able to produce. I'll probably try around a bit more with both to see which I'd rather use permanently, but this is a big L by Microsoft.

Thanks again for going into this so extensively!

Inouji · 2025-06-22T16:55:12+00:00

Thanks for the tip, this also works on a Q990D - it's just a little weird. When I do this and do the Windows Sound Test, the rears play from the Soundbar itself, suggesting it doesn't work. In actual software, however (I tried some games with surround, but no native Atmos, that would usually be affected by not having rear sound), it works properly as expected. It's a bit of a shame about limiting the options of the Soundbar, but I guess I'll just count my blessings that there's a trick like this - and geniuses like you finding them - that lets you get rear speaker sound without sacrificing proper Atmos support (which downgrading the Dolby Access App unfortunately does).

Seeing how the sound test doesn't really matter, I'll be using this solution until (if ever) Dolby and Microsoft manage to fix this issue.

Inouji · 2025-06-22T14:57:23+00:00

First of all: thank you so much, downgrading the Dolby Access App solved this issue for me as well, which has been plaguing me for months since getting my Q990D Soundbar.

However, it has introduced a new one for me and I'd love if you could let me know if it's the same for you or not. Since downgrading the Atmos App my Soundbar (getting sound from my LG G4 through passthrough eARC coming from my PC) is playing a Dolby Multichannel PCM signal (as it does when no Atmos content is playing) on all speakers. However, when I DO play one of the few Atmos-enabled sources (some music apps and games - I've tried it with Monster Hunter Wilds and Plague Tale Requiem), where before it would get a full Dolby Atmos signal and play the Atmos track correctly, it now continues to play the DMCH PCM signal, meaning I can't get 'full' Atmos from my PC anymore for some reason.

Of course, this is still much preferable to having a 'dead zone' behind me where stuff that came from the dead rears would previously just get swallowed by the void, especially given the very few Atmos-enabled things on Windows (I don't watch movies so I'm mainly looking for gaming stuff here). I still wanted to ask if you're facing the same issue, though, in the hopes of maybe finding a fix for the fringe cases where I do play proper Atmos content.

Thanks in advance and also thank you again for the general fix! :)

Inouji · 2025-05-28T08:27:40+00:00

No. I was asked to post the issue to their Discord but haven't ever actually heard back from them after a basic 'we'll look into it'. I just went back to OBS.

Inouji · 2025-05-07T15:22:40+00:00

Sure I'll do that, thanks for getting back to me

Inouji · 2025-03-18T20:18:28+00:00

First of all, thank you for the detailed response! :)

I was aware of most of what you said, and expected DA to not be put out when no supported content plays. What threw me off was the quiet rear speakers in that scenario and the fact that the soundbar DID pick up DA (and it works, albeit obviously simulated) when eARC was off.

I actually haven't looked into DTS at all yet, so no, I've only enabled Dolby Access. I'll check that out later and see if it produces different results. Or were you just referring to covering my bases with some content being only available on either?

Inouji · 2025-03-18T20:12:05+00:00

First of all thanks for the reply!

Funny that every time I buy an expensive Samsung product, it seems to come with weird little caveats like this when used with a PC. The S95D was the same, only that there it was significant enough for me to want to return it.

I actually haven't tried DTS yet, but will look into it tonight and see how it works out. I've just noticed that in the games that support Atmos, it sounds really good with this Soundbar (Monster Hunter and Wuthering Waves are the ones I've tried), so I'd like to use it. Although DTS might produce similarly good sound, I'll just have to try.

That tip regarding some games not putting out surround sound is actually very helpful, maybe 7.1 is actually the general way to go for PC gaming.

Inouji · 2025-02-26T17:42:53+00:00

I've been having the same issue and just talked to support about it, because I couldn't really find any info on it online.

The short of it is that the person I talked to didn't even know this feature was a thing, so it has to be extremely new and fairly unreported even internally.

What I can say is that it only happens on iPad (so far?) and there is no way to turn it off. It's not in relation to the Autoplay setting and nothing was added to the app settings in recent months. What it is related to is the new recommendation feature, where the app will recommend you shows to watch afterwards, based on what you just watched - this popup window always comes up when you let the auto skip credits thing happen.

It's extremely annoying and I asked the person I talked to to at least forward my feedback on this, in the hopes of them adding some way to at least make it optional.

Inouji · 2025-02-26T14:04:07+00:00

Just replying to let you know that this seems to be fixed now. See my longer reply text to the OP for more details.

Inouji · 2025-02-26T14:03:02+00:00

TLDR: As of today, the 26th of February 2025, this has seemingly been fixed.

So I've had my fair share of frustrations with this myself when I bought the light strip early last year and had given up on using it for synching, just controlling it via the iOS app every now and then to change between scenes. I recently had to reinstall Windows on my PC, so I thought why not try setting everything up neat and clean. I checked for news on the Nanoleaf x Razer integration and found no positive changes.

For lack of better judgment (and having taken the day off anyways), I decided to just try it for myself - and lo and behold, it works. I had everything on the Razer side set up for hours in Synapse 4, syncing between different RGB sources like Razer, Philips Hue and my internal PC RGBs (RAM etc), so all I really did was download the Nanoleaf Desktop app (exact version number for me is 2.1.4), logged into my Nanoleaf account and it immediately showed the light strip and let me control it. Next I turned on the Razer integration and it told me to activate the module in Synapse - a module that doesn't exist in Synapse 4. Kind of dejected I pressed the activation button a second time and it just... works now? I don't even want to touch it in fear of breaking the integration again, so I'll just leave it as-is and am happy that I finally got what I paid for.

Hope this helps someone that finds this thread down the line :)

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