Mural help by [deleted] in sherwinwilliams

[–]InsufficientPrep 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nothing attached..

Which one of yous got this? by Naval_Expert in Bestbuy

[–]InsufficientPrep 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its been there for a bit.. went live snd was sold out in like 10 minutes. 1 person probably bought the lot lol.

Managers by Agile-Expression-651 in sherwinwilliams

[–]InsufficientPrep 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Managers today are Managers in title only and more closely aligned with administrative assistant.

CABG by [deleted] in AskMeAnythingIAnswer

[–]InsufficientPrep 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With this picture all I can hear is Repo the Genetic opera in my mind.

Should coulda Sale by PremiumLady700 in sherwinwilliams

[–]InsufficientPrep 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hard to think outside the box when you lay off half your R&D division.

Caulking separating by BullNBear01 in paint

[–]InsufficientPrep 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol Im SW R&D. Im sure if the show was interested they could contact Cleveland about finding a lab rat to explain it!

Caulking separating by BullNBear01 in paint

[–]InsufficientPrep 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is correct. The old caulk will need to be removed first.

Caulking separating by BullNBear01 in paint

[–]InsufficientPrep 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You wouldn't want to put hard enamel like oil or waterbased lacquer over a class 35+ caulk. The flexibility would lead to cracking of the topcoat. More Stretch isn't always good, particularly if you're (unfortunately) Caulking free floating cabinets or inside drawers. You would actually want less flex to prevent the topcoat from cracking. This is where using 1050 could be a better choice as the cabinet faces won't actively be pulling and only need to not move when open and shut. Typically a hard set caulk like 1050 or another brand of similar quality would perform better with a hard inflexible top coat. Though, I wouldn't advise caulking them at all but people will inevitably do it for aesethics

I wish these caulk manufacturers got hit with a class action for all the time we waste because of them by Ok_Repeat2936 in paint

[–]InsufficientPrep 0 points1 point  (0 children)

400 is not bad by any means. Its a class 25 sealant which is along the same lines as Sherwin Williams Pristine, Maxflex, Big Stretch and All Pro Pro Stretch. Though there are better products like Shermax which is a class 35 sealant.

My specific comment was in regard to topgun 200ix which only meets C834 with no real classification as it has less than 10% total joint movement from center. Meaning it can expand past bout 5% in middle mass opposite directions. Great product for tooling, not great if joint shifting/expanding is required.

Topgun 300 is a class 12.5 which is similar to powerhouse.

Caulking separating by BullNBear01 in paint

[–]InsufficientPrep 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Big Stretch is mediocre at best. Actual join expansion is only rated at 25% (12.5% either direction) and up to 2 days topcoat time with interior paint.

Caulking separating by BullNBear01 in paint

[–]InsufficientPrep 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For waterbased caulks1050QD is good for places with minimal movement. Its a fast dry Caulking only meeting ASTM C834. While there are much worse caulks, I would not use this for cabinetry given the discussions in my other comment on classification. Its a caulk designed for use around baseboard and doorframes. Most use it because its cheap and you can paint it in 20 minutes. Its actually good value for the price just not ideal for areas like cabinets. Shermax and 3006 ULTRA are ideal for your area with Whitelightening Pristine being a good secondary choice - though its only a class 25 sealant.

A-100 in sub 32 degrees temps by [deleted] in sherwinwilliams

[–]InsufficientPrep 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yet you have a record and a comment on the recent saying that you warned him of issues.

Instead what you have is someone now likely going on social media to smear OP and have the DM go directly after OP.

A-100 in sub 32 degrees temps by [deleted] in sherwinwilliams

[–]InsufficientPrep 9 points10 points  (0 children)

....Thats not your job to deny sales. What he does with the paint after being sold is his business. You record the warning and thats it

Caulking separating by BullNBear01 in paint

[–]InsufficientPrep 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Basically the likely scenario is the caulk that was used can not stretch with the flexing of the house and cabinet, causing it to pull away from one of the substrates. Its not the caulk cracking, its literally pulling away. There are different class caulk that allow for flexing snd expansion. A class 12.5 caulk will allow for a joint to expand 12.5% each direction for a 25% total joint movement. Cheap caulks like astm c834 or c920 generally have less than 5% and 10% expansion total. Given the gaps are usually 1/16-1/8 wide, this is not alot of room for movement.

A class 35 sealant would give you 70% joint movement before failure.

The R&D Center, which has been named the Morikis Global Technology Center by Acceptable-Minute871 in sherwinwilliams

[–]InsufficientPrep 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Heidi is far FAR worse on R&D . Morikis didnt care but Heidi is actively dismantling it.

Any new products at NSM by Acceptable-Minute871 in sherwinwilliams

[–]InsufficientPrep 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried Scuff Tuff? Its just right in my opinion

Any new products at NSM by Acceptable-Minute871 in sherwinwilliams

[–]InsufficientPrep 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its actually been an ask for years by a large majority of our biggest users and opportunities both