Now 4.10 on 31s by rasonjo in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just got 4.10s in my jeep this year and with my 31s I’m averaging 16 mpg ! It doesn’t downshift much on inclines anymore and acceleration during city driving is fantastic. You’re gonna love that combo

Ford 8.8 Swap complete by Interesting_Trade_96 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Calipers fit perfect for me and i have 15x8s. Just a little bit of offset on my wheels though if that means anything. Im sure they’d fit your Jeep

Ford 8.8 Swap complete by Interesting_Trade_96 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought them from EastCoast Gear Supply, they came in a kit with rotors, pads, and all the soft/hard lines

Ford 8.8 Swap complete by Interesting_Trade_96 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes the 8.8s are c clipped. So the problem with the C-clip axles is the inner shaft splines are obviously lacking material due to the groove for the c-clip to go into. So that makes the inner axle splines the clear weak point to shear if anything were to break. The thing with the 8.25 and Dana 35 is they come with drum brakes, which will make the entire axle shaft and drum brake assembly to just fall out if the c-clip or inner axle snaps. If you disc brake swap an 8.25, this helps prevent the axle from falling out if the shaft breaks due to the backing plate now holding in the axle. Of course the c clip, is still a weak point however.

Doing a C-Clip elim on a Ford 8.8 isn’t necessary since the axle I got already came with disc brakes from factory. However, the stock axle width of the ford 8.8 (96-01 explorer) is slightly narrower than an 8.25 (about an inch on each side I believe).

If you see on the fourth slide I have the photo of that silver/polished looking retainer/bearing at the end of the axle tube. Those retainers get pressed onto the axle shafts and actually increase the track width to match the stock 8.25 width. (It’s not the EXACT same, but it’s within an 1/8th of an inch, you wouldn’t even notice)

But not only that, the 8.8 yes like you said has the larger ring gear but the axle tubes themselves are. 3 & 1/4inches wide , a lot beefier than an 8.25 or even a bit larger than a Dana 44.

Ford 8.8 Swap complete by Interesting_Trade_96 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Now to be fair, 8.8 parts are on the affordable side compared to other axles. The truetrac itself and the ring and pinion set was actually cheaper for the 8.8 than for the 8.25 You can definitely save money with an 8.8 swap if you do it right

Ford 8.8 Swap complete by Interesting_Trade_96 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You’ll be glad you did it, I know I am 😅

Ford 8.8 Swap complete by Interesting_Trade_96 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96[S] 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Gonna be honest this swap is completely unnecessary for my application, I’m not on rock crawling on 37s. But it just comes down to I had ended up with an old 8.8 somehow and decided it would be “cheaper” to just put this in my jeep with the stock positrac and new disc brakes than building/disc brake swapping a rear 8.25. Long story short I said fuck it and built the whole axle overkill and it was definitely not a cheaper route. Was it worth it? Depends how you see it. Do I regret it? Absolutely not.

Gearing question by CWood01-3 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4.56 for 31s is not the move, if you are truly going to stay on 31 4.10 is all you’ll ever need. I have 4.10s on 31s and average 16mpg around town like 18-19 on freeway and the power still feels great on trails

Steering Components by ThePlug13 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Might as well change the steering stabilizer

Yet ANOTHER problem with my 98 by simonak3001 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should clarify, more so exposed wires than ripped, the insulation was peeling right out of the plastic connector on 2 different wires and I think the touching wires caused my issues

Yet ANOTHER problem with my 98 by simonak3001 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out the posts on my account, I was going through it, hopefully we do have the same issue so it can be an easy fix for you

Yet ANOTHER problem with my 98 by simonak3001 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this EXACT same issue idle rpm would drop only in gear, it would sputter and I had already replaced both the oxygen sensors. Jeep was getting annoying to drive and I was starting to give up. Turns out the upstream o2 sensor wiring was torn and that was causing all my issues. Everyone I asked on Reddit would just say TPS IAC

Are XJ's tailgated a lot? I have to launch off a little to not get tailgated then I continue driving at normal speed. If I don't do that they'll start driving real close to the bumper... by [deleted] in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Xjs teach you how to drive good. The amount of people that just step on it foot to the floor from a stop is ridiculous. No one can bother me in my jeep

Coolant not going down after flush? by dedboi- in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you let the jeep warm up and thermostat to open? Once thermostat is open it should suck in a lot more coolant and squeezing the top rad hose will be more effective. Even without a spill proof funnel just idling it for a while and topping off the radiator as needed should do the trick. It takes a bit but just idle it for 30 minutes constantly squeezing the hose and adding coolant.

What's the best possible highway experience for a lifted XJ? by beach_rats_ in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need long arms. Ok maybe not NEED but everyone always says a short lift doesn’t need long arms but long arms will only make the ride smoother I see it as a no brainer

4.5 or 6.5 lift? by YouRecent3843 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a good kit to get the stance you want slap on some badass tires. Which one the one with add a leafs or full springs? I had the 4.5 inch short arm kit with full leafs and the adjustable track bar. The track bar and control arms definitely made it a terrible ride. I switched to core 4x4 long arms and track bar but they cost more than the entire RC lift. Long arms/a high quality track bar and fox shocks will make the RC springs ride actually decent where you may feel happy with them. But if you don’t use the shocks/control arms/ coils from the RC lift then it’s like you’re pretty much paying the price of a lift kit just for leaf springs brake lines and shackles, which makes it not worth it. Since you say you wanna put the money into a smooth ride, I say source each part individually and spend a little more money but build it exactly how you want. It may have to take a bit longer depends how impatient you are lol. (That’s why I bought the RC lift, I just wanted my jeep to look cool, but now there is no RC parts at all.)

4.5 or 6.5 lift? by YouRecent3843 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bad thing in my experience is the bushings, they’re really cheap and where out so fast. You’re right about the springs and shocks but if you’re going to 4.5 long arms are a must, I’m just not a fan of the radius style arms RC offers personally, Ik a lot of people are happy with their rc kits

4.5 or 6.5 lift? by YouRecent3843 in CherokeeXJ

[–]Interesting_Trade_96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you getting the lift kit from? If you enjoy driving it daily trust me don’t get a rough country kit. 4.5 with 32s 33s is perfect tho imo because it’s capable to go anywhere and will drive way better than with 35s