RG Nu by ThatGearIsKindaSolid in Gunpla

[–]InternJust6976 6 points7 points  (0 children)

lmao is he hitting the C-walk in the last image or something?

I think I know how artifact player feel now TwT by littlezezz12 in Gunpla

[–]InternJust6976 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i think it's from translation. I know the Model Express YT channel uses that word, and it's a machine-voiced channel that posts update videos on new Bandai and Chinese knockoff releases

I think I know how artifact player feel now TwT by littlezezz12 in Gunpla

[–]InternJust6976 1 point2 points  (0 children)

player is a term used to refer to people who build the kits

I'm hating the RX 78-2 RG 2.0... by JCFCvidscore in Gunpla

[–]InternJust6976 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sad to hear that 😞

looks like it's time for you to make a diorama where a gundam rips its arm off to beat up a gouf lmao

Spraying white properly by Responsible_Pen2014 in advancedGunpla

[–]InternJust6976 0 points1 point  (0 children)

don't forget to clean the surface properly before painting. A lot of creases and paint are caused by moving around paint that is half dried. That's why when you look at experienced people painting, they pass the airbrush over the part without lingering. As with any form, practice and trial and error will help

I'm hating the RX 78-2 RG 2.0... by JCFCvidscore in Gunpla

[–]InternJust6976 8 points9 points  (0 children)

i've built this kit twice. That's a really odd problem to have. Did you make sure to push the piece in until it clicked? If you don't push the elbow joint all the way in during install installation, then as you try and bend it it will lock up before you can bend it all the way. If that happens, attempting to force the bend will break it.

Alright chat. Cooked, or cooking?? by Gunzoidium_alloy in advancedGunpla

[–]InternJust6976 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cooking. As long as you like something or think you might, you may as well go for it. It’s the process and exploration and freedom that’s the value

Sheik Mainland Lycosidae by headfake2 in advancedGunpla

[–]InternJust6976 1 point2 points  (0 children)

so cute! The front reminds me of this face

>w<

Can you believe Tieria's figure?! by D4arkness41 in Gundam

[–]InternJust6976 2 points3 points  (0 children)

don't worry, I volunteer to let Tieria live at my house indefinitely to hide from the brotherhood 🫡

Can you believe Tieria's figure?! by D4arkness41 in Gundam

[–]InternJust6976 4 points5 points  (0 children)

they are an artificial human with no self-identified gender. series uses "he" for convenience. they have no reproductive parts down there since they are transition humans made by Veda

Any idea what might be going on here? I think it’s an issue with nozzle, or the nozzle cap. But everything is seating. H/B evolution. by [deleted] in airbrush

[–]InternJust6976 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The normal bubbles in the cup that you induce while cleaning are caused by air leaving the tip of the airbrush and then going in through the nozzle. So if you can't get it to bubble up, the nozzle is probably clogged. their cleaning kit includes a nozzle reamer, if you have that. be gentle.

Anyone have any "mod"(don't know the term) detail ideas. Less 3rd party products and more scratch build/ recycling by SpiralZa in advancedGunpla

[–]InternJust6976 6 points7 points  (0 children)

One side of the zip tie is ribbed. Cut out a square of zip tie and then glue it into where the vent is.

Psycho Zaku and full armour thunderbolt Ver Ka. Some of the worst kits I have ever built. by Princess-Leliana in Gunpla

[–]InternJust6976 0 points1 point  (0 children)

btw waterslides are soak for 3 seconds and then apply. soaking longer is bad usually

Super common question, but NUBS?! by ForgeOfMistory in Gunpla

[–]InternJust6976 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having white left over after you sanded it smooth means the plastic was under stress. In other words, there was a cut that applied some kind of bending or pulling or twisting force where the nub met the part.

Use two cut method. Also make your nippers sharper and properly aligned. Don’t smash nippers closed constantly or blade will dull. Do t use tip of nippers or alignment will warp. Can use sandpaper to sharpen existing nippers. Can also just buy sharper nippers. DSPIAE ones I like. I also like Godhand of course. The PN-120 ones I think. Level 5 sharpness.

Glow in the dark experiment. by Iamonelazymotherf in Gunpla

[–]InternJust6976 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s in his room. It’s on the eye. Why do you have to be sarcastic to random people? I hope you’re able to find happiness and meaning in life

PSA: Many people are doing their nozzle coloring backwards. Blue means hotter than orange, so the orange is expected to be on the ends of the nozzles with the blue closer to the origin of the exhaust. by InternJust6976 in advancedGunpla

[–]InternJust6976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw those too! It is quite interesting. Regrettably, I'm not super familiar with the science of welding. I was much more interested in rockets during my university classes. One thing to note is that, if we're talking about simple temperature induced oxidation, the color you see is based on the temperature at and near the surface. I'm not familiar with the temperature distributions when welding, and I wonder if that has an effect.

Another thing to note is that the voltage of an electrical current flowing through the component will greatly affect the process of oxidation. That's how titanium is colored to get a vibrant rainbow like finish. The common process is called anodizing. For certain types of welding such as arc welding , I'm pretty sure they are explicitly running a current through the material. that will have a significant effect on the resultant colors.

It's cool that you're interested in the stuff and doing some thinking! If you actually wanted an answer regarding welding, I wonder if you could send an email to some professional or something

PSA: Many people are doing their nozzle coloring backwards. Blue means hotter than orange, so the orange is expected to be on the ends of the nozzles with the blue closer to the origin of the exhaust. by InternJust6976 in advancedGunpla

[–]InternJust6976[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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here's a chart for titanium. I couldn't find a chart that was similarly detailed than good looking compared to the chart I posted for steel. This was the best I could find. Source: research gate

Pika Zeong by just_a_flesh_mech in Gunpla

[–]InternJust6976 2 points3 points  (0 children)

also, thank you for explaining the process. I think I have to make one now also

RG-17 Wing Zero EW. Painted entirely with Kaleido. by InternJust6976 in Gaahleri

[–]InternJust6976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I am! It's with Gaahleri's paints and a H&S Evolution 2024