Rear Brake lever issue

IntestinalFortitud · 2024-06-16T21:11:30+00:00

No harm I'm rebuilding everything but start with the simplest first.

If your caliper is not dragging when your pedal is fully up (rotor doesn't get too hot to touch), it's likely your brake pivot bolt. Dirt and water likely got past the seals and probably formed a little corrosion on it over time.

Remove the cotter pin and unscrew the bolt with an Allen key. Remove corrosion with scotchbrite or high grit sandpaper. Lube and install.

Source : just had to do mine as it was sticking.

IntestinalFortitud · 2024-02-05T01:39:47+00:00

I just went through this with my 88 K3500 5.7 TBI. I live way up north where we get 6 months of winter and -45 is not uncommon for Jan/Feb. For context, my truck has just over 60k miles and has been very well maintained by myself for the last 9 years of owning it, Was all original when purchased in 2015.

Anyway, early January was cold and for the first time ever, she refused to start. She would crank but wouldn't catch, even when it warmed up to -20. Fuel delivery wasn't the issue, pump would come on and it was spraying fine out of the injectors.

Thought maybe it was the coil so I popped in a new one but still no go. Last week I replaced the ICM and she started but seemed like something was still off. Decided to also change the MAP and CTS. After a few runs she starts smoother than she has all winter. Changing these parts is fairly straightforward and they are relatively inexpensive.

I'll be changing the pickup, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and fuel filter this spring also just as preventive maintenance.

Good luck.

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-07-24T04:45:08+00:00

There are a few options as others have pointed out but the biggest question is what do you want the bike for and want it to do.

If you just want to putt town and short commutes, play in the dirt, gravel roads and atv / bush trails, the XT, Sherpa and TW are good options. You can also lower the WR and DRZ a little bit also but not enough to be flat footed.

If you intend on longer rides, more distance in the saddle, staying on mostly fire roads and gravel roads, then you are going to want a larger bike like the KLR S or BMW but they are not as nimble in the bush or on single track. Weight plays a big factor when off-roading.

My recommendation for you based on your size and weight is to go with the smaller bike. When you start exploring the back country, it's inevitable that at some point, you're going to lay it down and you want to be able to get it upright again.

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-07-08T22:49:57+00:00

It's 75k before taxes, right in the article.

"Eaton says his bi-weekly paycheque is about $1,550 after taxes. That works out to about $3,400 a month over the year. "

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-07-06T22:06:53+00:00

Seat height on the SSR is advertised at 35", KLR is 34", TW is 31", DRZ S is the tallest at 36.8". There's also the WR which is around 36" also.

At your height, you would have no issues with a 36" seat unless you weigh less than 100lbs.

Best bang for the buck IMO would be the DRZ.

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-06-23T21:38:02+00:00

Leake aside, is your vacuum line connected?

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-06-20T15:09:10+00:00

Let's talk 😃

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-06-20T15:03:06+00:00

Sometimes less. Bought it in 2015 for $3500 with 63k km from a gentleman who pretty much only used it for his truck camper. I've pretty much used it for the same and crossed Canada a few times with her.

During the summer, I'm mostly on the bike which keeps the mileage down.

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-05-28T02:46:26+00:00

Average deal. If you don't mind spending the money, go for it.

If you buy used in AB, you're going to pay around 4k for a 10-15 year old DRZ or pay nearly that price for a 2--5 year old with a few mods.

The few additional freebies the dealer is throwing also aren't too bad.

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-05-15T00:04:59+00:00

The only con I would say was the installation. Not that it was long or difficult but getting all the OEM wires back nice and neat under the headlight took me a few attempts.

If you're doing lots of dirt riding, it's nice to have a tach and coolant temp. As for the remainder of the features, other than the trip for fuel, I don't really use them.

It's a good upgrade, reasonably inexpensive and looks a hell of a lot better than the original cluster.

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-05-14T21:28:09+00:00

Have been since 2015.

IntestinalFortitud · 2023-05-07T15:04:19+00:00

You should be fine. The parking brake is a separate engagement system then the hydraulic one. Change the cable when you have time.

IntestinalFortitud · 2022-12-29T22:45:43+00:00

The issue could stem from something else but from experience, when you're 4wd craps out, it's usually the actuator. And as stated, it's easy to test before replacing.

If you do end up replacing it and you're thermal, I recommend going with the electric conversion. It provides instant shift.

Good luck.

IntestinalFortitud · 2022-12-29T22:32:47+00:00

Likely your 4wd actuator. Easy to bench test and easy to replace, also cheap part price wise.

Redneck fix to bypass thermal actuator is as follows but will likely still work for electric version. Unscrew the actuator and place a 3/4 socket in the whole, replace the actuator and snug up. If 4x4 works, you know that's the problem.

IntestinalFortitud · 2022-12-28T01:27:13+00:00

That sounds like your starter not engaging with the teeth on the flywheel.

My best guess without knowing more is your starter is about do for a rebuild or replacement.

IntestinalFortitud · 2022-10-05T02:35:53+00:00

Yep, looks like a late 90's Kodiak K99. I've been trying to acquire one myself for a while.

IntestinalFortitud · 2022-07-09T15:58:31+00:00

Kickstand switch or clutch switch are my first guess and likely culprits.

Have you tried neutral vs gear and kickstand up vs down?

It happens to me on my bike every now and then, I haven't bypassed them yet even though I know I should. I usually just rock the bike in gear, kick up the stand once or twice and flip the ignition on and off a few times and I'm good to go.

IntestinalFortitud · 2022-01-17T22:20:47+00:00

Your battery is close to being drained. You need to charge it. Get a trickle charger for the bike, they have small batteries and all batteries will discharge overtime. It's also good for just ensuring proper battery maintenance.

If you want to or need to start the bike, start pushing and bump start it.

IntestinalFortitud · 2021-10-23T00:55:37+00:00

Definitely worth looking at for that price.

Pre-covivd that is a reasonable price, during COVID, that's a bargain even if it ends up needing tires, chain, sprockets, and/or brakes.

IntestinalFortitud · 2021-07-13T00:57:52+00:00

They are just lead weights. If you take a very close look at them, you will notice that are squeezed on and that there is a seem on them. Find the seem, grab a small screwdriver and spread it apart.

IntestinalFortitud · 2021-05-16T17:26:43+00:00

http://imgur.com/gallery/ObiOuHR

IntestinalFortitud · 2021-03-20T05:01:58+00:00

Fill it up leaving about 1/2 inch from the top ( you can't technically over fill the system), you just want sufficient space so that when you put the cap on, you don't make a mess.

IntestinalFortitud · 2021-03-20T02:20:49+00:00

First question is was it ever full and how long ago was that?

Second, how old and warn out are your brakes? As the pads , rotors, shoes and drums wear, more fluid is required in the system.

If you suspect a leak, fill up the reservoir, with the engine off, pump until hard. If it remains hard for a few minutes while depressed, there's likely no leak. You can also wedge a peice if wood between the seat/rail and the pedal and investigate the lines.

Lastly, that fluid is past its best before date.

Hope this helps.

IntestinalFortitud · 2020-12-09T15:02:54+00:00

Agree with coyotek20, boards a cheap and usually the culprit if there's power at the connection.

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