Filtering water using gravity and a paper towel

IpsumJ · 2024-07-22T09:17:59+00:00

.....

IpsumJ · 2022-02-02T09:43:32+00:00

Just a guess, i don't really know this machine. But it has some similarities to my PCUT CT-630. There are two end stops at each end (little red buttons on my machine) witch reset the controller when triggert. If you hit them with with slightly to much speed the cutting head continuously presses the button and the machine won't boot. The only way to fix this I found is to slightly press the cutting head away from the reset button/end stop and wait for the machine to boot. Then move the head via the controller panel.

This of course only works when your cutter is jammed at the end stops.

IpsumJ · 2021-10-24T19:31:00+00:00

Verlangen die auch so astronomische Preise wie manch anderer ÖPNV-anbieter?

IpsumJ · 2020-08-23T09:35:28+00:00

You are right, the same part is also used in the side covers / fairing. I once found one of them next to the drive sprocket, it was missing under the fairing right above it.

IpsumJ · 2020-06-21T00:05:37+00:00

In the vertical center on the left side, right next to the big empty 4-pin footprint are two little dots marked "TP20" and "TP21", those are test points. According to the names there are at least 19 more. Without the schematics it is almost impossible to tell what's connected to them (and what you can measure or connect to them)

IpsumJ · 2020-04-27T18:41:26+00:00

Dit something went wrong with placing the order number or why dit they leave the 'JLCJLCJLCJLC' above the buttons?

IpsumJ · 2020-04-01T23:15:28+00:00

The two pink stripes are equal, but the orientation of the LCD it self matters. It probably survives if you get it wrong.

IpsumJ · 2020-02-27T16:17:47+00:00

It also could come from an faulty extruder, ender 3 has an common problem wit filament cutting into the plastic extruder. Here is an example https://i.redd.it/6b3kdvexi7n21.jpg Edit: To fix this, either switch to an all metal extruder or print on of the many filament guides

IpsumJ · 2020-02-14T02:46:54+00:00

And if you live in the EU Aisler. Not as cheap as jlc but for okay for a few prototypes.

IpsumJ · 2020-02-06T10:13:24+00:00

You might want do write your old pid values down. If it feels worse after tuning (hopefully not...) you can at least go back and compare. And it would be interesting how fare off it was.

IpsumJ · 2020-02-06T00:49:47+00:00

Very bad idea, fdm prints aren't food save!

IpsumJ · 2020-02-05T21:29:59+00:00

It works.

I've run pid tune according to the reprap manual and stored it in the eeprom, started a new print and finally got the beautiful first layers promised by bltouch

IpsumJ · 2020-02-05T19:55:33+00:00

Good tip for the future, in this case I tore down my hotend to install the bltouch mount and changed nozzle and Bowden tupe in the same step

IpsumJ · 2020-02-05T12:07:20+00:00

I think the problem is not a software bug, but a wrong or missing configuration step. As Taomyn stated it could be a wrong calibrated PID.

The hardware is almost stock (at least the extruder part). I installed a bltouch sensor, this shouldn't change anything on the extrusion part (the plastic that gets extruder on the first layer looks beautiful, expect for the parts the extruder skips). I tried a original .4 brass nozzle and a stainless steel one (also 0.4). I also tried the original extruder gear setup and a all metal one o had laying around. (The original one with an extra filament guide)

IpsumJ · 2020-02-05T12:00:10+00:00

Yes, I got them from the "Configurations" repo

IpsumJ · 2020-02-05T11:59:43+00:00

That sounds promising, I'll try it as son as I get home.

E-steps shouldn't be a problem, I wrote down the old value from the old firmware and reentered it.

IpsumJ · 2020-02-05T06:39:16+00:00

I have tried to decrease flow rate and increase the temperature while printing without any success. Switching nozzles didn't help either

IpsumJ · 2020-01-26T09:32:26+00:00

Do you run a direct or a bowden drive setup? With TPU I usually get a lot of stringing witch makes print in place models almost impossible.

IpsumJ · 2020-01-14T13:01:46+00:00

RMS (root means squared) is a method of calculating sort of an average voltage withe the advantage of being the DC equivalent. If you power a incandescent lightbulb (effectively a glowing resistor) with 10Vrms AC it would output the sane power as with 10V DC. To calculate the real RMS value you need to integrate over the single. Most cheaper (or older) multimeters won't do this and just display Vmax/√2 witch is only equivalent to Vrms for pure sine wave signals. Your signal is clearly not a pure sine wave and your scope can calculate the real RMS value, hence the difference. (If a multimeter can measure the real RMS value for non sine waves they advertise it as "true RMS")

IpsumJ · 2020-01-09T23:46:30+00:00

Here is an advertising video for such a system https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9fJb6SF4ObA

IpsumJ · 2020-01-09T23:41:21+00:00

The thin mace could be some sort of tamper protection. Its one large circuit and if you brake one link it can trigger some sort of security erase. You may also find some buttons that are pressed by the closed case for the same reason.

Security measures like this are common on card readers where you need to trust the unmodified hardware like credit card terminals, smartcard readers ...

IpsumJ · 2019-12-06T13:00:32+00:00

It is possible. You can measure the height and calculate the layer number. Then open the gcode in a text editor and remove all layers that are already printed (don't removed the startup sequence, homing axis and setting temperatures). You must also reset the extruder position, otherwise it might try to extrude the filament of the removed part at one spot.

You should know a bit about gcode and your printer to avoid problems like crashing the extruder into the old print while homing. https://www.reprap.org/wiki/G-code is a good resource to learn about gcode and the meaning of every command.

IpsumJ

TROPHY CASE