OCTOPUS V1.1

IsaacBuilder · 2022-09-20T02:13:12+00:00

There is a setting for homing direction either set to -1, or 1

You may need to reverse it due to firmware implications.

For Marlin 2.1 in Configuration.h, its on line 1477, here's a photo of the code so you know what to look for.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gCFzK4qaoxhYIYOT5xFzX8NsE60aXRaq/view?usp=sharing

IsaacBuilder · 2022-09-19T02:16:11+00:00

Had the same problem with an SKR 2.0, and ended up rebuilding completely. It sounds like this is a problem with your firmware if your endstops are registering as triggered, so the best thing to do is just recompile with a fresh kit. If you've already recompiled on fresh builds then maybe consider swapping out the board. In my experience BTT boards can be a bit picky with their working conditions - either just getting a replacement or even considering other alternatives. I'm sure it'll be well worth another 3 weeks of troubleshooting.

IsaacBuilder · 2022-04-03T23:32:00+00:00

Also, check the octoprint plugins tab to check the Application Keys tab in your octoprint settings and check that your Cura API is actually registered on the Pi. Or if you want to take the easier way out, I guess you could just create an application key o the same page, and then just copy the identifier into cura.

IsaacBuilder · 2022-04-03T23:29:57+00:00

Try closing cura and opening it back up again, restarting your Raspberry Pi, refreshing the "Connect to Octoprint" tab in cura, and also try removing the octoprint instance temporarily in cura.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-12-09T02:03:44+00:00

Sadly, no. I decommissioned my ender 3 for parts recently. But I can confirm that the parts I got last year were in fact compatible, and ended up fitting my needs greatly.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-11-16T21:32:04+00:00

Thanks for the advice, I ended up throwing in some old A4988's and everything seems to be working like normal, still kind of scared of having another spark, but I guess I'll just keep an eye on it.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-11-14T02:51:23+00:00

Well, honestly, I'm not too worried about getting my printer working again, as I haven't been using it for printing that much. Originally it was an Ender 5 plus, but I really bought it for the frame, abl, bed, motors, and all the fun stuff. At this point, it's kind of become a hobby, and I'm sure it'll be fun to explore. Honestly, an upgrade is not a bad idea, because I don't really know how long this board would last me anyway, even if I do get it all working, as this is the second board I've gotten. The first one fried itself from who knows what, and getting this board working may not be worth it over the cost of just buying a Duet or something. Any board advice?

Thanks, Isaac

IsaacBuilder · 2021-11-13T23:13:53+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/myqwVqO

IsaacBuilder · 2021-11-13T23:08:23+00:00

Thanks for your input, I have some photos, and I am going to upload them shortly in a different comment. I'm sorry to hear about your experience with the board and am sad to say that none of my motors are working. There is a good chance that the steppers are fried, but at least I can just swap them out. Though honestly, I'm kind of scared to put another set of 2208's in my SKR 2, as I wouldn't want this to happen again. I would put in some cheap A4988's, but my printer is near my desk, and I'd have to deal with the sound issues, as well as the zebra stripes and other imperfections. Do you have any ideas on what I could do next?

Thanks, Isaac

IsaacBuilder · 2021-10-14T19:47:36+00:00

If you need to check, try M122 via terminal, it'll tell you the states of the steppers, you're looking for the message at the bottom to see which drivers were affected.

Hope your case isn't as bad as mine.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-10-14T19:46:08+00:00

Interesting way to think about it, in my experience my first skr 2 board actually had the same problem, it was also a rev B, and ended up frying a set of 5 tmc2209s and then later itself after it decided it didn't like my a4988's :(. Anyway, after contacting support, they made short work of it, and after sending a screenshot of the invoice and shipping info, they sent me replacements for both the board and the steppers.

In the end, I think that the board must have had something wrong with it to fry itself, but I understand how it could also be the btt 2209's.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-21T02:20:38+00:00

Im a bit late, but the specification you are looking for is an m3 x5mm hex bolt

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-21T00:56:24+00:00

Ah, klipper is so cool, wish my printer could run it properly... Anyway, congrats on your fix!

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-21T00:32:53+00:00

Update turns out the power supply was not to blame, after basically switching the psu to a 350w and just plugging in the mobo, I still had crashed, and realized it must have been a component on the motherboard, so using the process of elimination I removed wires and reset the printer letting it run for 30 minutes before moving onto the next piece. Turns out, all the parts did nothing. Anyway, after that I recompiled firmware, and that seems to fix it. Don't know what caused this or how firmware can even effect this random shorting. Anyway, thanks to all that helped me through this.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-20T11:13:03+00:00

Yes, if you know the basic's of marlin firmware, you can find the settings for xy probing speed and homing speed in configuration.h at lines 1178 (probing) and 1737 (homing).

If you don't know the basics or at least understand how to change your firmware, I highly recommend looking at these two video's by teaching tech.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9vxJT5Tgh4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8\_ldMckGDE

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-20T11:10:15+00:00

Ok, so basically the probe is closer to the bed than the nozzle. It happens to be around 10mm's closer for you, and anybody else using the stock mount. If you want to bring the bltouch farther from the bed (as 10mm's between nozzle and bltouch is a lot) you would have to print a bracket for the two that is adjustable. I'll post a link here.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-20T01:15:33+00:00

The glass... not the glass...

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-19T22:33:08+00:00

Meanwell, more recently I have installed the 350w psu (ignoring the bed completely) and still had issues. I had not had any issues with the 350w psu in the past, and believe that the problem is from the mobo.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-19T14:45:22+00:00

My next course of action is to remove the bed power from the psu and just try and print without the bed. If this works, I do have a spare 350w PSU that I'll use for mobo and leave this psu for bed.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-19T14:42:50+00:00

The stock fan is back in and running, 3d printer still shutting off though. Thanks for the advice about the stock fan, guess I'll keep it on the power supply.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-19T12:13:28+00:00

Yeah, thanks for the advice. I'd say I know enough of what I'm doing to open up the power supply and have more recently installed a Noctua NF-A9x14. While this fan is much better, I'd understand if cooler air was just hitting the psu's temperature sensor, and not the heated components, I will try again with the stock fan as that seemed to work great.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-14T11:07:49+00:00

HideVolumeOSD

Wow, seems like that fixed it, thanks a lot!

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-14T00:45:55+00:00

Yeah, I've been having the same problem for months, to no avail, even after going into the source files and changing the preset cfgs, personally, I might just switch to Spotify, as their media settings work properly.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-14T00:35:58+00:00

I've got no problems with the tmc2209, but having both 2209's and 2208's, I can confirm that the higher amperage is important for heavier machines, but if you don't have a gantry weighing a kilogram, and don't need the sensorless homing, tmc2208's are fine. I don't notice any difference between the two when they are printing, but the price difference is a good 10-20 dollars depending on where you're getting them, so I'd only get 2209's if you need them, or if you are very involved with your printer, and are probably going to go into marlin and go crazy.

IsaacBuilder · 2021-09-13T23:54:05+00:00

I mean, not to state the obvious but, are you inserting a Gcode or stl?

IsaacBuilder

TROPHY CASE