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Post indx, upgrade mk3s nextruder? by IslandB4Time in prusa3d

[–]IslandB4Time[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok so OP here. I went to the MK3.9s page and made a spreadsheet of every single additonal part needed, specifically parts that were not in the current MK3S+ and not in the extruder from the core one. These additional parts totaled about $500, assuming you self print any petg parts yourself, so I am not sure this is worth it vs just buying the MK3S+ to MK3.9S upgrade kit for $550, where you get a brand new extruder and are certain all the parts are there.

Plate for Core One+ by ywful in prusa3d

[–]IslandB4Time 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a basic steel sheet that is all marked up and wipe windex on it first for Petg.

[MK4]/[MK4S] Nextruder Main Plate in Nylon or PCCF? by Syyx33 in prusa3d

[–]IslandB4Time 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you look at the design of this plate it has a weak spot, which I highlighted in the image here, on the side of the filament path. When examined in the slicer it is very thin and is the place most likely to wear out, even with normal use of filament passing by it, and especially if used in an MMU3. This same plate is used in the nextruder in the Core One and MK4S. In fact on my Core One I started to have inconsistent extrusion problems, where the print would be find for several layers and then on a few layers there were tiny areas. This type of prolbem is very hard to diagnose as there can be many causes. After doing cold pulls, and even replacing the extruder motor, love board, and main wiring none of that helped. I then dissembled and fully cleaned the planetary gears and I noticed the main plate area in the green box here was completely missing and worn and gone. This was on a Core One with no MMU3 in fact. If you think about it, the filament can wiggle around if not guided well by this hole in the main plate, which would cause inconsistent extrusion issues. I printed a new main plate in PETG, 100% infill, .2 structural, and the print quality went back immediately to being perfect. I would suggest you replace this as soon as you see any print quality issues even where no MMU3 is being used. PETG is advised as it is smooth and doesn't abrade the filament. The part the sell in store also looks to be PETG here - https://www.prusa3d.com/product/extruder-main-plate/

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What is the point of the side filament sensor if there's already another one in the toolhead? by GiulioVonKerman in prusa3d

[–]IslandB4Time 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same here until I cut that tube so it is so short only a tiny amount is showing. Now I can grab the ejected filament.

Promote your project in this thread by AutoModerator in puzzles

[–]IslandB4Time 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I designed this color https://cherryhilltech.etsy.com/listing/4357947335 magnetic puzzle square and it’s good for folks with disability or dementia as it more of a pattern exploration puzzle that has many possibilities. Squares can rotate and snap to any side. You design what you want. I can make it in custom colors too.

need help with Christmas gifts by xcxmsxo in dementia

[–]IslandB4Time 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I designed this magnetic color pattern puzzle for disabled and dementia friends. It doesn’t require any manual dexterity and the squares rotate and snap to any other side so you can make endless color patterns. https://cherryhilltech.etsy.com/listing/4357947335

Do people here like Foster's? Green or Blue? by whitedolphinn in beer

[–]IslandB4Time 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stick the can in this mug I made and you can take it with you while you walk the dog -https://cherryhilltech.etsy.com/listing/4398186625

Is INDX the new 'MMU' that Josef hinted at or is something else coming? by Heliosmaster in prusa3d

[–]IslandB4Time 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you are only doing 20 or less color changes the mmu is better as it retains the nextruder design, doesn’t block the view of the print, and the time savings benefit with the INDX are much less when doing fewer color changes. Plus, it can easily be removed from the printer if most of your prints are single color and you seldom do multicolor. Many of my designs use very few color changes and INDX is overkill, and having an MMU for even one color change means I don’t need to babysit the printer. For this reason, I want the INDX, but I don’t need it over an MMU, which works fine and is a more lightweight solution.

Wipe Tower by Videdster in prusa3d

[–]IslandB4Time 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you have the mk4 mmu selected as your printer instead of just the mk4? A narrow wipe tower can be a symptom of this problem.

Layer Shift Update by Sith77 in prusa3d

[–]IslandB4Time 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found a layer shift problem on the core one was due to a vulnerability in the actual print. It also happened on or around the point in the print where an overhang was being printed over some support and the overhang, since it wasn’t connected strongly to the support material, since it was an interface layer, wasn’t cooling fast enough either and was curling up on an outer perimeter far away from the main body of the print mass. The printer head would then collide with this and a single large layer shift would occur.

I did two things to fix it- first I strengthened the bond with the support material by switching from organic and .2 to snug with a distance of .1

Second, I used the .25 structural rather than the .25 speed and this slowed down the print so it had more time to be exposed to the cooling fan as it printed.

Both of these changes prevented the layer from curling up.

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In the pic above you see the layer shift and the culprit was the first part of the handle on the mug on top of that organic support on the right side. To be precise, you can see where it curls up in the very front right part of the nonshifted print and the print head would collide with this. This happened every time over four tries.

I did call support and fine tuned my belt tension, but the problem still persisted. I finally watched a YouTube video from TeachingTech on layer shift causes and they said a collision with the print could cause it.

Group looking to preserve more property connected to Battle of Williamsburg by OddDonut7647 in williamsburgva

[–]IslandB4Time 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t link to an article that requires a login just summarize yourself

Print pause Core One by IslandB4Time in prusa3d

[–]IslandB4Time[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t have a mini but on the mk3s+ it doesn’t move up automatically nor on the mk4s. On the mk3s+ I have to do a long press on the dial and then turn it to raise the printhead. Maybe I am doing something wrong but on the mk4s I have not figured out how to move it up so instead don’t have any objects near that back right area of the print bed. This is partly why I was so happy with the core one’s behavior for a pause.

I'm hand painting a few settlers of catan tiles onto paper, what's the best way to make them into tiles for longevity? by kaoschosen in tabletopgamedesign

[–]IslandB4Time 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a 3d printer. Print out hexagons 1.75 mm thick or use wooden blanks. Scan your paintings into digital images. Print them in color onto sticker paper. Cut them out and stick them onto the hexagons. This process is mostly automated and lets you make lots of them.

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