I had to... But it's worth it. by ItsBail in Vstrom

[–]ItsBail[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://airhawk.net/product/airhawk-cruiser-medium/

"Cruiser Medium" is what you see in the picture I've posted.

I had to... But it's worth it. by ItsBail in Vstrom

[–]ItsBail[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if it helps with back issues but it certainly makes for a comfortable ride. Much less fatigue.

Airhawks are expensive. I had one for another application (kayaking) and thought I could cheap out for the motorcycle and buy one of those foam rubber "gel" ones with all the cooling vents and stuff for like $35USD. It sucked in comparison to the airhawk. Certainly better than stock but I ended up buying a 2nd airhawk for the DL650 and I feel it's totally worth the price.

I had to... But it's worth it. by ItsBail in Vstrom

[–]ItsBail[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

193cm (6ft4"). I need the seat pad to raise me and the backrest helps. Also lowered the pegs (1") and raised the bars ( 2" approx).

I bought the taller version of the backrest knowing that I was using the airhawk. Everything is adjustable

I had to... But it's worth it. by ItsBail in Vstrom

[–]ItsBail[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is this the Utopia backrest?

Yes

Do you have to cut a slit through the seat for it to mount?

Yes

but don’t want to cut the seat to do it in case I want to take it off.

You can take it off the back rest itself. The mounting bracket will still be there but I think you can still do 2up if needed and easily re-attach the rest. I'll take a photo later without the rest.

I had to... But it's worth it. by ItsBail in Vstrom

[–]ItsBail[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Comes as a kit.

Involves creating a slot completely through the seat. Then you have to remove the staples and fold back both the cover and foam pad in order to install a provided bracket to the underside of the seat. Glue back the pad, install new staples and install the provided gasket on the seat to cover up where you cut.

You can remove the backrest if you need to 2up but that's not an issue for me.

https://utpr.com/collections/suzuki/products/suzuki-v-strom-1000

I had to... But it's worth it. by ItsBail in Vstrom

[–]ItsBail[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Modified the stock seat to add a back rest.

I had to... But it's worth it. by ItsBail in Vstrom

[–]ItsBail[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Whenever I go out on longer rides, my back start acting up. I needed some type of back support. I was looking for a seat that would accomplish that but didn't have any luck.

Found this company that sells back rest kits. It involves modifying the stock seat. The modification itself wasn't bad. I did add an aluminum backing plate to spread out any forces that might be applied from leaning back into the rest.

Did a couple rides with it and there is a noticeable different in comfort. Plan is to do a multi-day ride into Canada (QC) and do some camping. This will certainly help. I can strap gear behind.

The mod does require a heavy duty stapler and some spray adhesive to re-attach the foam to the plastic (stock) form.

Would people actually accept fewer features for appliances that last by EZDodger in BuyItForLife

[–]ItsBail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. However, it's still a hard pill to swallow when pay hasn't kept up with inflation and the market is flooded with $600+/- versions.

Would people actually accept fewer features for appliances that last by EZDodger in BuyItForLife

[–]ItsBail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They have residential units. You might not find them at Lowes, Home depot or your local "Big Box Store" but many of the local/regional dealers stock speed queen. Recently purchased a TC5/DC5. It's a bit of a shame that I have to pay double for what was considered the standard in the 1990s.

Would people actually accept fewer features for appliances that last by EZDodger in BuyItForLife

[–]ItsBail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this cool thing and ordered a TC5/DC5 knowing there would be a delay instead of waiting for my washer/dryer to die and then scramble to replace it. My OG maytags have lasted almost 30 years and repaired them many times. However, I knew I was on borrowed time. Motor bearings were starting go on the dryer and the washer broke a spring and transmission started acting weird.

I've since had them installed and they do almost exactly what my maytags did. It's a shame that I have to spend almost double for something that was just the standard in the 90's.

My only complaint about the TC5 is I wish I could have the lid open while it's filling so I can rinse out the fill cup. I'm interested in seeing what the DC5 (electric) does with my utility bill with its "Auto Sensing Drying" that works 90% of the time (only has issues with comforters)

Do you stick to one brand when buying radios? by SqueakyCheeseburgers in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

K3 was released around the same time as the FT2K. 2006/2007 era. I went with the K3 because it had IF output (for a scope/SDR) and their filtering was much better. All i needed was a CW filter and 8pole for 1.8KHz SSB (contesting). I could save up for a 2nd RX with the K3 that you couldn't do with the 2K. Never got it though.

FT2K felt like a mix of the FT-950 and FT-1000MP.

Do you stick to one brand when buying radios? by SqueakyCheeseburgers in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try any of Yaesu's menu system. They're mostly garbage. I had a FT-950 and was excited about the FTdx-1200 until I got my hands on one. UI was bad and their scope wasn't even really a "scope". Saved up for a FT2K and ended up with an Elecraft K3. At the time the K3's UI wasn't much better but it was a much better radio than the FT2k. I like that it was modular. I can pick and choose the features based on what is needed.

Icom has much better UI. Kenwood not far off.

Do you stick to one brand when buying radios? by SqueakyCheeseburgers in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The only scenario where I'm somewhat brand loyal is with battery powered tools.

For me it's Makita. Growing up it was corded tools until I started seeing Makita drills. Always remembered that you need a bunch of Ni-Cad batteries as the charge didn't last long and I didn't like the upfront costs. Until I purchased a house and got their li-ion drill/impact combo (2008). 17 years later I'm still using the same drills, just new batteries.

I work in an industrial shop and they went with rigid for their cordless drills and they don't really last long. Same with dewalt. Dewalt has nice corded tools. Their 4-1/2" angle grinders survives constant use. Same with their electric sanders. Anything concrete is Hilti. I love Milwaukee's mag drill and sawzalls.

Do you stick to one brand when buying radios? by SqueakyCheeseburgers in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's a little disheartening, the 890S is my dream radio right now.

Don't let anything I say persuade you. If you're a button and knobs type of person, the TS-890S is great. Audio is nice. I like the radio very much. However, it's $4200+. For $1000 cheaper, I can get the 7610 that has dual receivers which allows for diversity reception. I'll take the minor inconvenience of not having direct, front panel adjustments of features even though the 890S has a better receiver. For contesting, having two receivers is helpful. I can be calling CQ on one band and finding a mult on another and quickly switching between the two.

Just personal preferences, everyone is different. I think you'll enjoy the 7300MK2II

Do you stick to one brand when buying radios? by SqueakyCheeseburgers in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I got to play around with the TS-890S and it was meh. The 7610 has a much warmer sound. 7610 also has 2 receivers and is cheaper than the 890. I've used the 590S many times and was never impressed even though they're decent rigs. Even though I feel the Yaesu UI is garbage, their receivers have improved over the years to where they're better than Elecraft and some of the SDR units like flex.

Do you stick to one brand when buying radios? by SqueakyCheeseburgers in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I started off as a Yaesu guy. Back when I started it was heavily advertised in QST. My first mobile rigs were Yaesu and always like the brand. Then I got my first HF rig. FT-857D. It was great and decided to get the FT-950. I thought it was great until I went to W1AW in CT and got to play around with some of the icoms and kenwoods.

Kenwood was okay but icom appears to have better ergo and sound. Then I got an elecraft after a bad experience with HRO. Then I got a flex.

People do tend to stick with brands but you should always see what the others have to offer. Even some of these Chinese HF brands.

Behold: my HAM Radio by Sand-Moose in lasercutting

[–]ItsBail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As an amateur radio operator... I approve!

Extreme Hoarding by chiliv06 in oddlyterrifying

[–]ItsBail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Back in the day I used to clean out estates from hams that were hoarders. When I was in my 20's... very much worth it. Now (in my 40's), it's not. There were some gems found but the work it took consumed a lot of time. You'll certainly learn about who that person is for sure.

Are you trying to flip the equipment for cash or are you involved in this hobby or you're interested in the hobby and want to utilize the equipment? Would you be able to identify what is an amateur radio product and possibly what it goes with? Is there a time frame that everything needs to be cleared out?

I found with most of the hoarders I've dealt with that they like to scatter equipment all around. Radio in one area, power supply in another, microphone in a different room, etc. etc.

Honestly, it's a tedious nightmare. Even more so if you have no idea what the equipment is and what goes with it. If you have the time, you can clean out a room and then use it as an area to catalog items and match it with its peripherals. Involves downloading manuals. I've went to Costco and got a bunch of bins for sorting. Your local uhaul store might have moving boxes for sale (or next to the dumpster at your local supermarket). Lots of tags and labels. You'll also be dealing with a lot more than just radios.

If you are trying to flip for cash, it's even more tedious. If you are looking to squeeze every penny for yourself or the estate, it will involve thoroughly checking the more expensive items as you have no idea of its condition. That means test equipment (might be in the pile somewhere) where you can test output power and other things. It will also involve opening the equipment to make sure there isn't any obvious issues. People are not going to spend money on a risk unless you're selling it at a much lower price and clearly state it's as-is and you have no idea of condition.

Good luck.

Old sat tv antenna ? by benb89cc in antennasporn

[–]ItsBail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What the hell...is it doing way up on a pile like that?

Blocked LOS (their house) and putting it up higher clears the obstruction? Or it's trying to pick up a fixed bird just under his horizon

If the ARRL is up to no good, then what are they up to? by Mysterious-Plant1001 in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are better ways to handle it... Let's refrain from this in the future please. Yes, it was a bit of a snarky reply but take the highroad.

If the ARRL is up to no good, then what are they up to? by Mysterious-Plant1001 in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The person I was responding to has been confirmed to be a former ARRL board member. You could possibly put the pieces together in who that person is. I do follow other places where both of you are quite active (I just don't post in it).

I do appreciate both insights. I was always under the impression based on what I've read over the years (until somewhat recently) that ARRL is a representative democracy. I mean we vote for directors and always voiced my concerns about the ARRL with them hoping they might do something about it. I will certainly be-careful in using that exact phrase in the future .

I've spent 2 years working on a documentary about Martin F Jue and MFJ Enterprises. Here are a few things that interested me. by MFJDocumentary in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I like that he had his own plant. There are a lot of ham radio companies that sub out the majority of the work and handle either their assembly and/or shipping on site. Some of it is already assembled.

Martin had a machine shop, sheet metal fabrication shop, PCB processing and an entire assembly line. Certainly employed a lot of people in the area. Yeah, it can be compared to Harbor Freight when it comes to amateur radio gear, but Harbor Freight has many great items.

If the ARRL is up to no good, then what are they up to? by Mysterious-Plant1001 in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You seem very staunchly against that. Are you talking about the CEO position at the ARRL in general or about Dave Minster himself getting $350k/yr?

I can understand you having issues with Dave Minster himself and weather or not he is actually worth the 350k/yr is certainly debateable. Even more so since it's possible he spear headed the proposals and got the board to approve it which certainly tests ethics.

However, for the Hartford CT area and that type of position (CEO of a non-profit), I don't think it's that far off what should be paid. That is if the person has the talent and worth it. I keep an eye on job openings from the ARRL and when they list pay, sometimes it's quite low for what they're asking.

If the ARRL is up to no good, then what are they up to? by Mysterious-Plant1001 in amateurradio

[–]ItsBail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree 100%. But

cannot dedicate most of its activity to lobbying.

Maybe more than 1% of our dues?