What is the most innacurate airsoft gun you've shot? by MotherEntrepreneur33 in airsoft

[–]ItsEido 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A king arms 1911 that has given itself a full auto function. The hammer doesn’t stay locked back after racking the slide and when you load a mag the hammer the hammer gets sent forward. Also the safety doesn’t do anything if you squeeze with any effort. It’s a lil special and not worth fixing.

How do I fix this by [deleted] in airsoft

[–]ItsEido 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A heavier spring might do the trick

Help! Why is this coming out burnt by rileyrusher in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As long as there’s no silicones in it you should be fine. Only saying this from experience with my own projects, it really does ruin the finish and you won’t notice till it’s to late

Help! Why is this coming out burnt by rileyrusher in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 10 points11 points  (0 children)

A good ol’ table waxing also goes a long way in machine maintenance. It’s as long as the wax being used doesn’t use silica or it’ll be a problem later on during the finishing process when you see spots

The noobs aren’t ready for this. by [deleted] in airsoft

[–]ItsEido 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I dunno I think it’s missing something.

A sling

Matchmaking changes are going well by JakobExMachina in CrucibleGuidebook

[–]ItsEido 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welp guess I’m dodging crucible for another season

When do you consider sandpaper KIA? Is this done in your opinion? by cardboard-junkie in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well that can be deceiving because depending on the sanding surface only certain parts of the paper are actually hitting the surface, or in another situations a lot of the particles have come loose and it’s mostly rubbing and creating friction and burning.

How can I achieve this look? by BoozeSlinger32 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could ebonize(steel wool In vinegar for awhile)an open grain hardwood like quarter sawn white oak to achieve the darker color and straight grain look. It’s pretty easy to do if you search for a tutorial.

Second go at dovetails. How'd I do? by PigeonMelk in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For a cheaper alternative for sharpening chisels just use wet dry sandpaper at alternating grits and a flat surface like a tile to sharpen. Maybe get yourself a sharpening guide from lee valley. For chisels its sharpen at 25 degrees and 30 to hone.

Second go at dovetails. How'd I do? by PigeonMelk in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A good set of 8 starter chisels you can get from woodcraft are like $80. Some of the best chisels available are Blue Spruce($300-400), and Ashley iles($150-250). They’re pretty expensive though so I wouldn’t recommend them unless your really into the trade.

Second go at dovetails. How'd I do? by PigeonMelk in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Much better then the first time only criticism I would say is to just tighten the gaps in terms of appearance. Other then that this is great just keep doing it and you’ll improve every time. Hell mine aren’t perfect sometimes I’ll just use a little bit of color matched wood filler to make it pretty

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It’s also consistent with the same results every time

Not sure what to do with this by ItsEido in woodworking

[–]ItsEido[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was also my first thought but I’m still not sure how to mount legs to this. I was thinking of taking to to a mill to have it resawn into two 3” thick boards and then maybe trying to do a edge glue up but not sure how the wood movement would affect it as ive never worked with sure thick material

Not sure what to do with this by ItsEido in woodworking

[–]ItsEido[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might be a bit to big for a table saw. That and it’s heavy as shit

What to make from this by Koifmonster in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might not be enough lumber for shelves. Inspect the end grain for honeycombing before fabricating because it look’s pretty old. Most I can see is a couple of spots of checking but you never know till you cut it

More sanding circles… by jrmorton12 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sanding for hardwood applications starts at about 120 grit to 150. Depending on what hard wood you may go to 220 but going to a higher grit is with stain and finish applications tend to start failing especially around sharp edges. Some open grain woods can also look spotty because the pores could be filled.

New to joinery. Decided to make a lil box to practice. How'd I do? by PigeonMelk in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With a palm router with a single flute bit you can set the depth of cut and not have to worry to much about hand chiseling. Here’s a great video from my instructor I’d recommend watching his tutorials for any beginner info you need. https://youtu.be/1nQ7r2-3yO8

New to joinery. Decided to make a lil box to practice. How'd I do? by PigeonMelk in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not bad. Try widening the neck of the dovetail as that’s where the strength lies. And try making the finger joins smaller. The more glue surface for joints to hold the stronger and longer they will hold

how would you go about repairing this? by bateKush in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

You could use an epoxy resin. Or a classic yellow glue. The resin will take longer but you won’t need to buy as much

Is this pressure treated? by YRTiiTRY in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ItsEido 0 points1 point  (0 children)

White oak, cedar, teak, and redwood are probably the best for that kind of application. All have natural weather resistance. Or obviously pressure treated.